Paul356

someone explain crooked pictures, pls.

The inspector came by yesterday...

Steve, send a picture of the prop deflector if you can. I saw yo mentioned that one other time, but I can't quite picture it. Thanks.

This shows the rudder and the outboard semi-attached to make sure everything will work. And it will. *(more later). The bracket is the elegant and removable stainless steel model from Duckworks. By the time I finish fiddling with the wood block surface on the bracket face, I don't think I will need to take any notch out of the transom to allow the outboard to fold up and lock in position. I had already stiffened the outside of the transom with a layer of glass and now have beefed up the inside of the starboard side with an additional layer of glass covered by a piece of ply. That, plus the stiffness that will come from the cleat and rear seat structure will be more than enough to handle the outboard whether thrusting or stowed. ​Now the *: Despite trying to mock up, hold the outboard in position, balance in place with blocks and clamps, etc. etc., when I finally got this far and drilled holes and fastened bolts, I found that the rudder will swing into the prop when the outboard is rotated 180 degrees for reverse. Gawk. I realize the risk of the rudder getting grabbed as the boat heads sternward, but all things considered, I have decided to accept and watch out for that hazard rather than move the outboard outboard now. Also, if I keep the rudder up, there is no conflict. And things should work very nicely heading where our Wisconsin state motto commands -- Forward -- which is where I plan to be going most of the time. Nice to have the boat home from winter quarters to work on again, and nice to have some warm temps to do it in. ​I'm really retiring -- no work, no nuttin' -- on June 1, so this boat will get wet this summer. The most aggravating problem right now is the (usual) malfunctioning trailer light, and I guess the now-usual sideways picture, so nothing I can't handle. Look for more pics soon. ​--paul

I do. It's nice.

very nice, very inspiring.

That really looks sharp. In the meantime, I picked up some ideas from your -- well, what are they called? The pieces you're using to fill in the footwell forward to make a sleeping platform. I like the way you did yours and now plan on something similar. The boat looks great.

Glassed the hull with 4 oz. Not planning to glass the deck.

Thanks again, DP. Will be doing mockups soon, and then making the (cringe) final cuts into that glorious transom.

Timely advice, Docpal. I ordered the Duckworks mount over the winter, will be installing soon. I hadn't realized I'd need a notch. Darn. I haven't yet put motor on mount, mount on boat. We'll see. It falls under the usual category: nothing is easy. The mount is slick, tho.

roughly same price at Jamestown, it appears. shipping, etc., might make a difference. looks like nice stuff.

On the paint, I used the Jamestown WetEdge enamel and thought it worked very nicely, comparable to Interlux enamel at much lower price. Jamestown has stainless halfround (expensive) and brass halfround (less so). Get them when they have free shipping on orders over $50.

The "white lumber" Lowes sells around Milwaukee is soft and punky. It might technically be some sort of spruce or fir, but I would not rely on it for much strength or to hold its shape over time. It appears to be very rapid growth stuff, probably pulled from a pulp harvest. So, to echo PAR's key point, that "white" stuff appears to vary greatly around the country and you need to evaluate accordingly. The big box stores around here do have some legit doug fir, sold as such, although it's often knotty or curved. (I found one piece with a natural curve that I was considering using for the inner keel at one point, no bending-in required!) They have some decent "select pine" at times, too, although the pieces I bought most recently were imported from New Zealand.

What a great looking boat you've built. Congratulations.

My thoughts: epoxy helps give some ding protection and provides a good, more or less permanent base for the varnish. A little touch up varnish each year, rather than a complete redo. That's been my experience. Possibly adds some strength as well, although that may be more wishful thinking on my part.

Gives us slow builders something to shoot for. Wonderful shots.

Did you use a kit for the leathers, or just make them up from scratch? What sort of leather and tanning? Very nice work.

Our favorite skipper-designer rolls into Checkpoint 2 about 1215 Monday (photo from Alan's site, courtesy Alan's dad):

Rolling over: I second Chick's method. Get a few friends, or a gymnast nephew and brother in law, and pick it up and over she goes. It's not as heavy as it looks. Make sure you have a place to put it once flipped.

Couple of fotos I found of Graham getting Carlita set up right after pushing off from the beach Saturday morning. Only the crew that sails can push the boat off the beach, meaning Graham had to do the task himself.

a lot more at https://www.facebook.com/groups/440773022707818/?fref=nf

Graham got to Check Point 1 at 7:44 p.m. Alan got there at 5:29 p.m. but stayed until 7, during which time he put some blades on the tips of his amas (quick-set epoxy, I 'd guess), presumably to help keep the tips up. He then sailed until about 130 a.m., anchored off a key, and took off again before 8. Alan's mom, SOS, got to CP1 at 10:50 p.m., paddled some more, camped at 115 and was at it again early this morning. Source: Alan's blog, which is being staffed by his dad, http://sailnaway.blogspot.com/

I got some of Jamestown's inhouse Total Boat brand nonskid paint that i'm planning to use on the cockpit floor. haven't tried it yet, unfortunately, but i'm very curious and will of course report results. on my previous boat, a Redmond Bluegill, I did "non-skid varnish" for the floor surface. I mixed Interlux nonskid grit with the final coat of varnish that I applied over the epoxy smoothcoat. Worked ok. My brother-in-law the fiberglass boat builder got a big kick out of that.

Love that candy-apple paint job. Looks speedy. Nice design. Have a good race.

Pete -- Definitely assume you will get blush on the B&B epoxy. But it washes off easily. I used water and a little amonia.