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Paul356

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Everything posted by Paul356

  1. One thought, and you may have done this, but make sure to get the temporary middle bulkhead in before you glue the longitudinals, etc., in order to make sure you have the right hull shape in through the middle.
  2. Hey, glad to see you're underway! I scarfed stock together to get inwales long enough. I put the scarfs toward the stern where there is no tension. The struggle is getting the inwales to bend in at the bow. It was definitely a struggle and ended up being a matter of brute force, and then clamping back in against the curve of the topsides. Make sure your forward bulkhead is solid. Definitely do a dry fit first, then try slipping the inwale up/in just enough to apply the epoxy. It will be important to have the front end of each inwale trimmed to length in order to slide down in. I was amazed at how much shorter the length was inside the boat than just above the topside. One thing I did was cut the forward end of the inwale at 90 degrees to the topside, rather than trying to fit a miter joint at the front. you can add a block later if needed, or fill with epoxy. It makes the fitting much easier. It's hard to describe and I'm not sure how much all that helps. Have lots of clamps and screws ready. The further I get into the project, the more liberal I am using sheetrock screws to hold things. I figure there isn't going to be much difference filling a dozen holes or a few dozen holes when the time comes. p.s. Invitation to stop by still stands if you find yourself in Milwaukee.
  3. Next step,the transom. Now it's in place. And while I usually wear either belt or suspenders but not both (and today ran out of the house without either), I did decide to beef up the works with a layer of glass on the outside and bracing on the inside against the day I need to motor 20 mi with an outboard. I'm going to finish it bright. Right now there's enough epoxy to bed the cloth and then a healthy clear coat on top. That will get scuffed up eventually, all sanded smooth, another clear coat if needed, and then varnished. Fillets and taping will follow, of course. Gold leaf for the name and hailing port? So, the end-of-summer construction rush continues. Oh, and thanks to Graham for a tip on adding shims to get the width right.
  4. Thanks. Load Rite looks nice, now to find one in Wis.
  5. What trailer did you get? I'm in the market now myself. Yours looks like it fits well.
  6. Hey, Carla, so good to hear from you. Keep on getting better!
  7. I got the keel batten in place. It took for-ev-er. No problems, just proceeding carefully and everything took a long time. The clamps handled the sharpest curves and I screwed in the rest. Transom comes next.
  8. I think the inner keel batten has loomed as scary piece for many; I know it did for me. On the other hand, every CS ends up with one, so it must not be impossible. Here's how I'm doing mine. I measured the interior angle at one foot intervals along the centerline with a bevel guage, then divided that vaue in 2. I laid out the half-angle on a piece of scrap so I could measure from the point of the angle out 1.75" along the base line, then measure the gap up to the angle line, a fraction of an inch at each station. I marked that gap distance on the edge of the keel stock at each station. Next, I used the table saw to rip a beveled piece off each half with the saw at the angle of the least bevel, 7.5 degrees in my case. Fortunately, the resulting bevel matched the mark at the three stations it was supposed to. For the remaining stations, I made two angled cuts with a razor saw from the center line to the mark on the edge showing the depth of the angled gap. I chiseled out the notch, and that gave me a pair of angled notches at each station to show the bevel needed at each station. Then the fun part: I planed the bevel on each side to match the groove at each station. After quite a bit of time spent measuring, laying out and making the angled notches, it only took about 15 or 20 minutes to hand plane each side, and the winding bevel appeared almost magically. Next comes final fitting and finding a good way to clamp or screw it snugly to the curve in the bottom before bedding it, as Graham says, in a layer of thickened epoxy "mush." Pictures show the stock part way through planing, with some notches already planed out and some still as first cut.
  9. that's the right way to do it. I've reefed my 36 footer by myself, from the cockpit, with the same principles. i'll do it the same way on by 17. thanks, Peter, for showing how it's done.
  10. Plans are gelled for weekend. I'll be available Saturday. Let me know if you want to make arrangements off line.
  11. Yup, normal Monday-Friday week. Possibly a day trip this weekend. If you're seriously looking at this weekend, we can get together off line and coordinate. The shapes for the cradle pieces are taken off the bulkheads.
  12. Matt and Tru, You're definitely welcome to come visit. Let me know when you're ready for a road trip. The cradle frame ended up 12 feet long and 33" wide. I wanted it to be narrow enough that I could stand under/next to the boat while working on it, but I don't remember exactly how I came up with 33". Probably just ended up cutting the cross pieces 30" and put the sides on the outside. In any event, it's working well. The cross bars underneath that hold the casters are 48". All 6 casters freewheel. I made the CB blank big enough for the entire blade minus the cap piece at the top and minus the last little curved piece at the top rear. I believe that I made some of the pieces toward the rear shorter. I started the shaping by drawing the foil shape I wanted and then cutting steps down into the blank, lengthwise, to correspond, like contour lines on a map, using my largest router bit. I smoothed the lifts with planes, spokeshave and RA sander with 60 and 80-grit paper. I had to go back and do some filling with thickened epoxy where I had some voids, splinters and low spots, and in some cases that was a two- or three-step process. I did the rope trick in the leading edge. If I recall, I cut that groove with the router using a centering jig while the blank was still square, and put the rope in fairly early in the process so that I could shape up to it. I did some lifesize layout drawings, too, to help shape and cut the top piece. The hardest thing in the whole process was finding good wood and getting straight slats cut to glue up for the blank.
  13. 12 hours this weekend, filleting and taping. I'm getting better at it. It's funny the skills one acquires. I'm also getting less goop on myself and more on the boat. I did find some in my beard, tho. The next boat will only take half as long. But, anyway, it's fun to feel the hull getting more rigid as everything starts to get tied in place. I was surprised at how much epox the tape needs for wetting out. I'm trying whenever possible to do the taping while the fillets are still pretty fresh, even a bit soft. That seems to make everything look and feel better, and saves a ton of time on sanding. I'm not sure how energetic I am going to feel about sanding rough spots smooth and tape edges flat inside the compartments and lockers that no one will see. I decided at one point yesterday that it would be neat to leave the aft face of the forward bulkhead bright, so I'll have the wood grain looking back at me under the deck top, so that's what I'm going to do. It's such a nice expanse. Some photos of the weekend work are attached.
  14. Thanks, Lennie. I did get the inwales in after that picture, another 4-hour job butonce in place it made a huge differnce. The fir didn't crack, but I'm guessing it was close. I have no idea where to get long mahogony around here any more. 30 years ago, yes, but not now. Once again, wife to the rescue to help with clamping and pushing. It looks like highs in the 70s this weekend, so I should be able to get all of the chines, cockpit sides and bulkheads in and taped -- I hope!
  15. Friday I tack-welded the chines, bow and a bit of the bottom in place. Yesterday I spent quite a bit of time backtracking near the transom. The stern bottom angle wasn't right. I'm not ready to put the real transom in yet, so I made a pattern that I could push into place, along with the rear bulkhead and force the bottom panels into the right angle. A lot of fussing but of course I wanted to get it right. It took a few hours. Way it goes. I'm ready to fillet and tape the chines now, tho. The taping recommended in the plans is quite a bit more robust than the fillets in Alan's videos, with two layers of tape and a much broader fillet, and I plan to do it that way. Then I'm going to fillet and tape the fore-and-aft cockpit sides and the rear bulkhead, which are already in place, then slide the inner keel in, and only then put the transom on. (The CS 15 videos show putting the transom on first, then the rear bulkhead, but it's a different setup on the 15, with the cockpit sides running all the way to the transom instead of just to the rear bulkhead.) Many thanks to my wife, who noticed that if both the transom and the rear bulkhead are glassed in, fitting the inner keel mght be very difficult if not impossible. I decided I'd rather have the cockpit sides first, then the transom. I think you need to pick one way or the other. It all takes a lot of time. It's frustrating when a couple of pieces don't quite line up ("that's what epoxy is for," I grudingly tell myself). I feel like I needed another quarter inche of spread in the bow, but couldn't get it. How big a flaw will that be? But it's very gratifying when there's such a sweet shaped boat sitting in the garage despite a few gaps here and there.
  16. Matt & Tru, I think you'll enjoy it. Be sure to let me know if you get to Milwaukee. I was able to do a lot of work in the basement last winter, and cutting in the garage even tho it was cold. So the centerboard, rudder, seats, trunk are more or less ready to be installed when the time comes. If you haven't found them already, these Graham-approved videos by Adam are invaluable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPjfXCXAxwE&index=2&list=PLCCJRycps-_mbO-Lfdr0s8OZX-4QOZCzL or google Core Sound 15 Hull Assembly Part 1
  17. The big day arrives. This is such an amazing and fun event in the life of a CS build. We needed to do the assembly outside since the garage ceiling is not tall enough to handle the vertical butterflies. Weather and social schedule coincided about 230 Sunday afternoon, and we wheeled the cradle out into the drive. I had already tied the keels together. I used nylon wire ties, and they worked well for me. These are the 4" ties, which fit through the 1/8" holes. (I was a little worried about whether they would hold up, or pull tight enough, but they did and, it seemed to me, pulled just as tight and more easily than wire. They were certainly easier for me to use than wire, and I have less worries about leaving them in place if that happens. A few failed when I pulled too tight, but I either replaced them or used wire as a backup. Get 2 packs of 100.) I laid the book flat on the cradle and clamped some sticks to each pair of wings. We slowly opened... And there it was. Just amazing. It took some adjusting to get the gear teeth to fit, and the wings to fall comfortably, but with the two of us working around the boat, it went fine, and never did I feel we were in danger of cracking anything. You'll see I had the safety blocks up front, inside and out. After that we started working the ties from front to back along the chine, and then went back a couple more times to pull them tighter each time. I did some pulling and tugging to get the bow pieces to line up properly (in a V), rather than overlapped. I adopted Graham's suggestion and drilled a pair of holes for a long screw at the most recalcitrant part of the curve, then tightened it up to close the final gap. I had to trim about 1/8" or 3/16" from 4 teeth on one side and six on the other, since they weren't quite lined up and didn't want to slip together. (Used a sharp utility-type knife). I have some gaps of 1/4" or more between the pieces in the vertical areas just behind the bow, and not sure yet what to do with those. By 530 everything was pretty tight, the bulkheads were in place one way or another, and I had a stick across the stern to sub in for the transom. I put the boat away for the night that way. I want everything to settle in and I'll pull it out again and line it up and see how it looks before I start to tack things in place. What a fun day.
  18. Back at it. Just over a year since the kit arrived from B&B. But I got some time away from the office and work resumes in earnest. Oh, I also have a hull number, 381. Yesterday I got the cradle ready. Today my wife and I slid the panels out the garage attic shop window and down to driveway. I did the final cleanup, and now the butterflies are curing in the garage. With any luck, the big unfolding comes tomorrow. That will be a fun day. Some fotos from today (slight confession, it's a bottom panel in the first couple pix but a topside in the last one) :
  19. Here are some prayers and best wishes from Wisconsin.
  20. Good news re part 1; I'm sure the sequel will be every bit as good. Thoughts and prayers continue.
  21. I happened to talk to her this week, and her high spirits and optimism are amazing. Prayers for both are headed that way.
  22. You can't do any better than Alan's videos on building the CS 15, which of course is so similar to the 17. They are extremely instructive. I just finished watching them again, and both the keel batten (which I realized I had not understood) and fillets are dealt with in a very clear way, as is so much else. He's up to part 6. Spend an hour with those and you'll learn volumes. You'll also gain a lot of confidence that you can do it, because it seems a lot simpler seeing it done than reading about it, sometimes. I don't know how to paste a link in here, but just google "core sound 15 hull assembly part 1" and you'll be all set.
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