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Paul356

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Everything posted by Paul356

  1. I got graphite from duckworks. https://duckworks.com/graphite-powder/ i just used some west graphite yesterday at our volunteer boat shop. it seemed the same. i don't know about cost comparisons.
  2. I ended up with 4 coats of graphite epoxy on the bottom of the Duckworks Scout I built last summer. (Sorry all, non-B&B product.) I was impressed with the way it held up to Door County Rocks and miscellaneous driveway scuffs. It certainly is better than scuffing through enamel and revealing primer or glass. I did some sanding with 320 between coats to get it smooth and glossy the way I wanted. I recommend it. But no studies.
  3. Like Amos, my trailering rig is pretty much the same whether I'm going near or far. Unlike Don, I leave the reef lines rigged all the time. The reefs are just too valuable to try to estimate when I'll need them and when I won't, I've found. (Calm wind at the ramp doesn't always mean the same away from shore, for example.) Rigging the reef hooks in the main seems to take f-o-r-e-v-e-r. So does putting the main sail slides on the track. The mizzen reefing and sail tracking seems much quicker for whatever reason. I leave the sprits attached to the sails and just sort of scrunch the sails up to the sprits, tie them with some strops and put them in the boat. I leave all halyards and other mast lines attached. I have a nice canvas over that goes over everything, but then again that takes some time to go on and off. But that time is less than the time it took to tie everything down and trailer without a cover. With cover, I can leave all the equipment loose in the boat. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get my solo set up time down much below 30 minutes, and I usually figure at least 45 by the time I get the boat set up, backed into the water, launched, car parked, and back to the boat. (My thought is that a lot of folks tend to ignore the launching, parking and walking back time when they talk about setup time.) I'm pretty sure it takes me longer to set up my CS 17 Mk I than it does to set up a Mk III, since the masts on the Mk IIIs are on tabernacles and whip up. I take the rudder off for trailering and take the motor off, too (goes in the car). The masts go up pretty quickly; it's all the other fussing that seems to take a while.
  4. The attachments on the sides are the little turn screws. You put the oval shaped piece in the canvas over the fitting and turn the top of the fitting. It's worked well on the dodger. Very quick, and has held up well in the dodger. They just used some wood screws, yes. I've watched for signs of either pulling loose or water intrusion or other ills, but so far nothing that I can see. I figure if something goes bad, I can substitute small flathead through bolts, but not needed yet.
  5. We stayed together ok. I put a reef in, others didn't. It took me a while to get all my strings pulled in the morning; the SCAMP was off and running. No question the CS is faster when it's a mind to, tho.
  6. Inside, but without the platform boards in place....
  7. Here's what I have now. (Instead of the full mizzen mast, I just had a piece of mast tubing stuck in for the canvas crew to work with.) In use, I'll run the mizzen sail up above this unit and tie the sail and sprit up with the halyard. Same for the main. This rear "tent" ties into the dodger I already have. The back end hangs down to the bottom and lands on the seats with no tie downs, enough to run rain down and off. It's stiff enough that I don't foresee any wind problems. The sides are snapped in. There are screens in the back, with canvas covers over, and the back flaps also roll up nicely for an open rear if desired. As I mentioned earlier, I gave up trying to keep the full cockpit dry. This gives me enough room to sleep and cook (if needed) on the platform made of the boards I put across the front footwells. Yes, there will be rainwater on the boat bottom below, but I will bail and pump it out when the time comes. Works for me, I guess. Harken Canvas did the work.
  8. Your work looks great. I'm especially impressed by the long, smooth whitish fillets. Good tip on peel-ply, too.
  9. Correct, no plans in the Mark I set for a tabernacle. It looks like the heel of the mast in the Mk III calls for a 17"+ swing and allows for a breast hook. I think that would require moving the main mast aft in the Mk I. Who knows if that would work. I remember asking Graham 'way back if I could convert my Mk I to a Mk III while building. He noted the hull shapes, etc., where quite a bit different. It looks to me like the Mk III is quite a bit deeper or steeper in cross section up front. I guess I'd still look for an ok or plans from Graham or Alan.
  10. Sort of holding a ruler up to the Mk I plans, it might be do-able, but it looks really tight using the CS 20 plans. If a 16.25" bury is needed on the mainmast as shown, and building and installing the tabernacle as shown, that would put the lower end of the pivoting mainmast right at the peak of the bow. Would it pivot through there or not? Also, there would not be any room for a breast hook as shown on the CS20 plan, in my quick estimate, so there might be a reinforcement issue. I agree with Reacher that putting up the main mast is the easier of the two, since I put a little cup in the forward edge of the step tube and all I have to do is slide the main mast forward and walk it up. Getting it out is a different project, tho. Hydraulic lifts! Ha! That would be something.
  11. Right, no bulkhead immediately behind the mast. If you make an open anchor locker before the mast, you will need to do some sea-proofing in the bow compartment. Now I see why you were asking about the first bulkhead. You were thinking bow, I was thinking back where the cuddy starts. Come to think of it, a little anchor well up front would probably be nice, tho. Even if there wasn't a tabernacle. But then the king plank wouldn't run up to the bow, and then some added reinforcement would be required, and then....
  12. Don, here are some excerpts from the plans. (you can ignore the lines in green and the 10" and 24" notes. I was thinking out loud.) As you can see, the front bulkhead is accessible from the front hatch, with a stretch. But the main mast step is very far forward. And as an aside, I don't think I can reach the step from the hatch as is. Whatever I did to the step I did before I installed the foredeck. I for one don't see a tabernacle reaching down to the step. I think at best you'd be looking at a two-piece setup, meaning partial mast (or tabernacle, I guess) reaching up through the deck level and then the main mast pivoting up into that. One caution is that the main sail foot comes down very close to the deck on the aft side of the mast, at least as the sail is cut now. All that caution aside, you're a pretty clever guy, I suspect, so it will be interesting to see what you come up with. And I'd be real interested if Graham has plans. --pb
  13. You can get to the front of the first bulkhead from inside the bow compartment, although some of it is going to be a stretch. The main mast is very far forward. Just thinking about it, I can't quite feature how you'd get the main below deck level to pivot forward. But, I do have plans and can try to send you some when I return home tomorrow or Sat.
  14. Don, on your question about the mainsail snotter line: I have what I think is the same rig your photo shows. I have a long snotter line running down to a turning block and then back along the side deck to a spot about midway back on the stbd side, along with all the other foremast lines. (I can raise, reef, snot(?) and downhaul the sail from that position). As for the snotter line, when pulled tight in use, there is plenty of extra length back in the cockpit. When I pack up the boat, I take off the sail slides, take the snotter hook off the mainmast strap, and run the snotter line all the way out to its end at the cleat on the side deck. That gives me enough slack to put the sprit and the sail back in the cockpit. I do not otherwise need to derig the snotter line. With the extra length in the snotter line, I can move the spirt and furled sail back into the cockpit for storage. As an aside, I also have plenty of length in the main halyard. Again, when I derig, I tie off the lifting end (on the snotter strap, in fact) and run all that excess from the aft end forward of the midship cleat. This lets me lift the mast clear of the step and lay it down on the boat without otherwise derigging the halyard. I have the reefing lines and downhaul of hooks so that I can derig them from the sail as I take it off and lay them on deck, so they do not factor in lifting out the mast. Hope this makes some sense. I'd take a picture, but the boat is in a shed some miles a way, and under cover as well.
  15. Oars on my Core Sound 17 are 10.5 feet. Blades are about the same as the photo above.
  16. On my 17, I used the system shown in Alan's video. Works swell.
  17. How can you tell the good ones from the bad ones on Amazon?
  18. Find a canvas shop that caters to sailing dinghies. They are used to making full coverage "mooring covers" that have a wrap fitting for the mast.
  19. Oops. All I meant to show was the sprit tied up. I think this is it.
  20. Note that on the shelter shown above in PPs post, on the Sea Pearl, the main boom is removed to allow room for the tent. They tie the boom to either the mizzen boom or the main mast with velcro straps. On my Core Sound, I tie the main sprit up to the mizzen to keep most of it off the dodger. (Even though I'm just motoring in the picture below, that's how I tie up the main sprit in order to raise the dodger and crawl under for sleeping.) I was giving some thought to some sort of dodger extension that would run out to the mizen mast and then drape down over the top sides, probably with some sort of horizontal pole at the mizzen to hold it open. My dream tent would also have netting in the back, with canvas storm closures. But it would be hard to justify all that for one or two rainy nights a year. Right now I just sleep under the dodger with a waterproof tarp over the foot end of my bag to keep the dew off. If it looks like rain, I put up a tarp tent off the back of the dodger to complete the enclosure, either alone or with some tent poles for extra space. It does the job, but if it's dewy, it gets pretty damp inside anyway.
  21. Make the sprits longer than the plans call for. As specked, they are likely to come up short when you hump them tight. Someone else here had noted short sprits, so I made mine longer. In fact, they're still just barely long enough when I pull the sails flat. If I recall correctly, I made the mizzen sprit the length shown for the main, and the main correspondingly longer. I should go measure them for you, I guess. Alan or Graham may have updated measurements for you. Just occurred to me that this could be because I ordered the full leech sails rather than the pure triangles. Not sure at all. In any event, you can always cut them shorter. Just don't let the main sprit pull back so far it catches on the mizzen mast.
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