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Posted

Has anyone had any experience with System 3's Water Based 2 part LPU paint?  I'm nearing the paint stage on my 10ft Spindrift and I need to make a decision soon on the paint.

 

The Main reason that I'm considering the Water based paint is that I have to paint the boat in my basement and the room is directly under the living room.  It isn't ventilated well and I don't want to expose everyone in the house to the smells and Chemicals of the solvent based paints.  System three says I can use this paint indoors with no ill effects of bad smells.  I have spent a lot of time fairing and sanding and I want a long lasting, good looking finish for the paint.

 

I also plan on using System Three's Water based primer.

 

Any input or advice would be welcome.

 

 


Posted

My experience is minimal but very favorable with SystemThree LPU, particularly compared to premium yacht enamels, and I know some others have had good luck here as well. I am not an expert but looked at this paint as still containing nasty ugly stuff, and therefore durable, but easier as far as cleanup because it is water based. I am not sure you are completely avoiding all the toxic chemicals but it is to a degree "lite" if you will. I used it and liked it on my cockpit. I then used Interlux Perfection on my masts with an epoxy primer ( PrimeKote) and loved it.

Next time around I am going with what the experts here say to do......go with the real LPU, get it over with and done. I sanded more times as a result of attempting to pussy foot around with lesser paints that I didn't save myself a thing at end of day health wise or environmental wise.

Posted

I did paint my 17 with the s3 lpu on the exterior, and will be doing the majority of the interior with it.  It takes some practice, but can result in a nice finish.  do multiple prime layers (3-4) and west sand smooth.  THEN apply 3-4 layers of top coat. it's thin, but can be wet sanded and buffed to a great finish.  

 

The 2 part polyurethanes I think are easier to get a great finish, but respirators, and ventilation are essential.  Be careful with this stuff.  

 

the water cleanup makes the paint almost worth its price.  

 

Good luck.  

Posted

I used the S3 lpu on my Spindrift. I found it easy to apply and looks OK (I brushed it on........there is a knack to using this to get a flawless finish). I seem to recall that high humidity conditions are a plus when it comes to getting a good finish.

 

I also have a lot of dings in the paint from use. If it touches a hard bottom (say.....a concrete boat ramp), the paint scratches right off. So I have found it to be not all that durable in use. Could be something I did in applying it........but that has been my experience.

 

I don't have an LPU (Awlgrip or similar) painted boat to compare with, but if I was going to build another boat of this type, that is what I would be planning to use.

Posted

 

I also have a lot of dings in the paint from use. If it touches a hard bottom (say.....a concrete boat ramp), the paint scratches right off. So I have found it to be not all that durable in use.

 

I don't know any paint that doesn't scratch badly against concrete.

Posted

In that case, I better not sand it all off to start over. :unsure:

 

What I have also found is that if you plan to actually use your boat (vs. simply admiring it) it is going to get dinged up some. Goes with the territory. It still makes me wince though. I have friends who sail a big 37 footer and they use a butt ugly injection molded plastic dink someone gave them for free. About the best you can say about it is it is a hole in the water that floats. Does not sail and is not all that easy to row.  But they don't hesitate to drop a big fortress anchor and chain rode in the bottom of it to row it out and then let the chain play out over the side. Or run it up on a gravel shore and drag it around. Things I would never, ever do with mine.

 

Perhaps once it goes from pretty race horse to work horse, looks don't matter so much.....either that or plan on touch ups now and then if it gets too embarrassing to look at. 

Posted

I do still plan on using a respirator because I'll be so close to the work, my hope is that the fumes in the house will be eliminated.

 

Thanks for the info on the Humidity, maybe I can use a small humidifier in the basement on the day that I paint.

 

David, How much paint and primer did you go through for that many coats on your 17?

Posted

Gallon of each for the exterior.  If i were to do it again.  I would have sanded the primer better, as it would have cut down on the amount of top coat needed to get a good finish when brushing.  I found that a roller and tip with a foam brush left a tolerable coat that could be buffed.  Brushing not as good.  some folks used a sprayer and reported good results.  I have attached a photo that shows the starboard bottom that has been wet sanded and buffed.  post-2815-0-97824600-1416748434_thumb.jpg

 

 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I used this primer and paint on a boat in 2000.  Very thin but keeps its shine well.  I painted an outdoor sign with leftover primer, paint, and clearcoat in 2001 and it has been outdoors in Texas weather (seldom freezes but gets over 100 in the summer). Still looks nearly as good as it did 14 years ago!

 

How much does a Spindrift 10 bare hull weigh?

Posted

I would say around 80 pounds. I can quite easily pick up my Spindrift 12 by myself which probably weighs around 100 pounds.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If you go with system three ......I found that maximum thinner is best for roll and tip method as the paint levels out after the tip as it gets more time to flow out. That is the same reason high humidity serves you well....more time before paint begins drying.

Posted

If you go with system three ......I found that maximum thinner is best for roll and tip method as the paint levels out after the tip as it gets more time to flow out. That is the same reason high humidity serves you well....more time before paint begins drying.

 

Yes!

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