makenmend Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Just started assembling the main hull, 1st Observation,doing the butterfly method is not a 1 person method, . So have the bottom panels all wired up looks real good barely any gap in exess of 1/16'', main temp frame screwed in place also good, but checking the other frames come to find the Aft Blkhd is 3/4'' to wide(both sides), transom & Fwd Blkhd are fine. Double checking my dimentions from cut out plan all apears OK but it's not !! ,obviously I can recut my frame to fit at correct location but wander where I'm messing up?? any thoughts. MM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterP Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Tough to say without seeing the boat. Bulkheads play a major part in developing the hull shape. It is possible that the sides need to be pushed out more to allow the bulkhead to fit. But again -without seeing the situation this is all just guessing. PeterP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Stumpf Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Welcome and congratulations on your first cut. When you say 3/4" each side do you mean the bulkhead is 1 1/2" to wide over all? If so I would take a minute and catch your breath and redouble check your layout and dimensions, that being said my forward bulkhead ended up a little wide and Graham did tell me to just go ahead and trim to fit, but an 1 1/2" sounds to me like you may be overlooking something. Good luck on your build Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 well day 2 , wired on side panels, starting from Bow, do couple stiches alternating each side, moveing Aft. This took better part of the day, wired in Fwd Blkhd exactly on the marks, screwd sides at Temp frame. Again recheck my measurements for rear Blkhd ? and location marks in hull, cannot figure where I messed up before starting on the sides this morning I offered the frame to the hull at the location marks and allowing 1/4'' indentation for the side I"m 1/2'' proud of the bottom Panel ( the 3/4'' I refered to ) for a total of 1&1/2'' over. Not a small amount !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 A very easy fix, but don't like moving around a problem without knowing why. Transom not yet attched but a perfect fit, which leads me to a question, I intend to use my 4 HP motor as backup, what would be an appropriate schedule to beef up the transom ??. many thanks for your input ( there will be more questions I'm certain ) John Farrell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 slow but sure progress ( Busy time of year with shows/messabouts and river trips ). Had a visiting friend help to turn hull so I could radius/fill and tape outer seams. Also glassed entire outer hull, no water getting into this wood ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Next as I'm in the boonies I had to devize a rig to turn hull on ownsome, worked fine allowing me to suspend hull and rerig my work table. Then more of the fun stuff sanding/feathering taped seam, ready to glass inside hull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 So onto the glassing,allowed 12'' overlap at keel giving me 2' total doubling in the working area. After fill coats on to fitting outer keel, inner keel batten and beefed up Transom. Going to have to make desition on mast soon, Spruse hard to come by to do birdseye mast(my preferance)Have a carbon mast on my Hobie but not sure on mast thickness for the CS, The internet will get a workout tommorow. MM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I'm curious about glassing the interior, I don't think I have seen that before. Carbon masts -- not sure how easy/hard that would be to make, out of curiousity a while back I had looked and it was something crazy like $50/ft to get them ready-made Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PinoyPiper Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I'm curious about glassing the interior, I don't think I have seen that before. was wondering the same. I know you do that with some kayaks, but that's because the plywood is only 3mm thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I also was wondering about that. Not called for in the plans, and to me, it just adds weight. Might be beneficial in the aft cockpit section, on the bottom where feet go most, but otherwise, I don't see the reason. I've built 6 B and B boats, and am soon to start another. Only one I glassed inside was a MiniPaw cause I used cheapie ply (needed a dink in a hurry) Graham built wood masts with a carbon fiber overlay on Skimmer- talk to him about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Add me to the list of those wondering why you glassed the interior. It will add a lot of weight. But not just that, but when and how you glassed inside. No bulkheads in place and no transom attached? Stitch and glue boats rely on tying several components together to create the shape. Then the structural processes like filets and tabbing make this shape permanent. Glassing the hull, inside or outside also make the shape more permanent. I think you will find it very difficult to fit bulkheads now that your hull shape is rigid. Many Core Sound builders do custom things to their boats, but I have never seen anyone not follow the construction order that Graham spells out with his plans. I think you will find that all of the interior now will have to be custom sized and fit to your hull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Dunn Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Looks like fir plywood. It may be a good idea to fiberglass the interior if it is fir plywood to prevent checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 The ply is indeed fir and that was the prime reason for glass, after many kayaks/canoes I guess it's become a habit.The weight is minimal (and down low)the internal bulkeads ect will be idevidually sized as per intructions as all boats will have slight varyations, they will also be glassed. Interesting thought on a hybrid wood/glass/carbon set up, hope Graham or PAR will enlighten me with info on this subject Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 been quite a while since last post on 342 but she's moving along despite the hot weather. Hull is fully glassed inside and out, seat lockers/air chambers all rough cut/dry fitted as are fwd deck beams ect.Bottom has 4 coats epoxy/grafite, sides primed cutting opening for CB trunk.and glassing in lower trunk. My birdsmouth mast although it came out good is on the heavy side (32.5 lbs)so Iv'e ordered the alumium so I can manage set up on my own,may use the wood mast for a lug or gaff rig set in mid mast station we'll see on that. Also have the sail track and sails ordered, so waiting on those items now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 she is heavier as a result of all the extra glass but I hope that pays off on the maintenence side.Turning is a slow methodical affair on one's own. While waiting on masts, sails,deck plates,piano hindges ect, Iv'e completed the CB, rudder and tiller (Not finshed/painted yet).Decided I would strip the decks and finish them bright, this took a while as 3/4'' wide * 3/8'' thick did not want to take the bend so went with 3/8'' width lot more time and effort but it's done now and glassed and to install after mast tubes are in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Dunsworth Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 The deck should finish out nice. I have an old runabout I'm planning on doing that way except I will put the glass on the top. Reading your earlier posts, I glassed the inside bottom of my brothers SD10n also. The floor only, because he was using it as a tender for his liveaboard boat. I knew it would have to take a lot of punishment, from water standing in it, to his talent for destroying most anything. Looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 I've thought about something similar with the deck after seeing some 'hybrid' kayaks (stitch & glue hulls w/ stripped topsides). How did you glass the underside of the strips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecgossett Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Did you glass the underside or tops of strips? Did you use all the hull stringers in the plans since you glassed? I ordered my 2" and 2.25" aluminum tubing through Amazon (best price around). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 To date only the underside of the decks are glassed,when I have the mast tubes installed the decks will be goopied on then glassed overall including 2'' overlap on the hull before the rubrail goes on. I have built several kayaks/canoes doing strip stich & glue with good results. I do have the hull stringers fwd of the bulkhead but have omitted the after ones as the hull is glassed inside & out. I also installed another bulhead just aft of the main mast step and this will be another air chamber with a 8'' deck plate on topside for inspection/air circulation when on trailer. After a lot a frusration trying to obtain the aluminum with the specified wall thickness,I called Graham to verify specs and he said he had plenty in stock !! could have saved a lot of time and frusration never would have thought to try Amazon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.