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PinoyPiper

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Everything posted by PinoyPiper

  1. Hello everyone, for the past few years i've been involved with balance lug rigs over where I am, and I'm really getting to like the rig, especially being able to use shorter spars. has anyone every tried rigging a CS17 with twin balance lugs? similar to a Michalak Laguna? asking because I'm interested in doing this on my CS17 (#224) if no one has done this before, what would be the implications? Cheers/Roy a Michalak Laguna
  2. had a capsize last month also, mast didn't fall out because there was adequate downhaul tension, I guess the moral of the story is to always set the d/h as long as long as the mizzen is stepped.
  3. no cracking with the seat. it's very much in one piece. though I think i might to screw them down in new places as I can't screw them back where they were before.
  4. mast step was built to spec. it's about an inch deep, no bevel or rounding at the top. I also had a spindrift before and never had that problem. on the CS, the downhaul is from the mast partner to the sail, to a cleat on the mast here are pictures of the mast step and mast partner when the boat was being built, the thwart (mast partner) is thicker now on the starboard side, I rebuilt it with "bi-axial plank"
  5. Mizzen mast fell over the other day in the middle of a tack, my guess is there wasn't enough downhaul tension. It ripped the screws out that were holding the mast partner (thwart) in place. Thwart is still in one piece as I made a thicker stronger one when the mizzen also fell over last year and broke the thwart in half while the boat was at anchor. Need to think of a way to keep it in place, either a deeper mast step or maybe a pin through the mast under the mast partner. any other ideas? The boat obviously couldn't point very well and couldn't go back where we came from, it's a good thing we had the outboard mounted, but only a liter of gas on board. When we ran out of gas we just sailed to the closest shore we could get to on a beam reach and bought gas from there.
  6. great story! you must be a great dad to have a son like that built my first boat when my son was 5, so I guess he thought it was normal he did help out when I was building my cs17 but only when i asked .
  7. the CS17 is a much heavier boat. It would be okay in light winds I suppose but might be too bendy in heavier air.
  8. i have those velcro closures on my batten pockets as well, very similar to Peter's, IIRC you also use the batten poker to break the velcro bond when you pull the battens out.
  9. I used to have an 11N, righting it when on its side was easy enough to do with the dagger board, just grabbing on to it from the water and putting my then 230 lbs on it was more than enough to right it. getting aboard was a different story either, my arms are not strong enough to lift up all of me and board from the transom, so what I found that worked was to board from the side, leg first. sure it wasn't pretty but it worked for me. the boat and water in it is usually heavy enough so it doesn't capsize again when I board from the side.
  10. Had that happen to me a couple of times as well. the most interesting one when we were racing with smaller dinghies and we found ourselves always waiting at the finish line waiting for the other boats to finish, so me and my crew had a few beers in between races (we had a cooler). On the third race we were wondering why the smaller boats were leaving us behind, so we assumed it was the beer, we actually managed to get to the windward mark, and when I was about to raise the board for the down wind leg I noticed that it was already up, so apparently it was the beer! Winds were light to moderate and we actually didn't have any trouble tacking without the board, we were just getting a whole lot of leeway.
  11. Thanks Edward, 6 yards, that's a good start. I'm looking at 60" wide fabric, would I need less?. Surlast brand (it's all I can afford), looked at sunbrbella and seamark but prices are outrageous in this part of the world. My cs 17 has the curving forward coaming, so the bows will be that size. here's quick badly drawn mockup of what I was looking at doing.
  12. Someone on this forum built and finished an S11N without making the CUT, sorry I don't remember who. I don't know if he ever did cut it. but you can if you want to I think. just epoxy coat the mating sides of the bulkheads before you put the cardboard spacers. though I can see there might be other issues, but it mostly involves having to do more work.
  13. Am planning to put a canvas dodger on my CS17. Would anyone know how many yards of canvas I would need?
  14. I used a Riley RM180, the older version without the plastic, mainly because I found one at a good price on ebay. I was supposed to install it on my nesting spindrift but I figured I'd probably need two of them, so I just kept it until I got around to building a core sound and put it on there. It works pretty well. I have a friend who has an Andersen on his CS17 an his sucks a little faster, but not by much. The Andersen is easier to install though. 4 years on the boat and it hasn't given me any problems, considering it was already used when I got it. but hey at $14 it was a good deal.
  15. Motor well is not included in the plans, I just copied the one that was originally on Richard Whitney's CS17 "Kokako" and Dave copied his from mine, both are made to fit our motors, my motor is smaller, therefore a smaller well. I think it's a good alternative to having a motor mount, mizzen sheet gets caught on it sometimes but not really a problem, easy enough to reach back to free it.
  16. 2nd CS17 launched in the Philippines. the happy builder two CS17's on the beach Dave's new boat, CS17 Roxannie in action
  17. Switzerland is pretty much landlocked though it does have some very nice likes, I'd venture a guess on Lake Geneva for this boat , as for using it in the Mediterranean, why not Italy is always great cruising grounds
  18. will be going out on again on Satruday. will see if putting more downhaul tension can solve it. about 10 inches
  19. Yeah I think it's a mast bend issue. due to to limited availability of quality aluminum tubing where I am I had to make do with bridsmouth for the top section, and aluminum pipe, (yes pipe, 3 to 4mm wall thickness) of unknown alloy and temper for the lower section. the top half bends as it should but the lower section bends very little or none at all. that "dog leg" was worse before I wrapped the 6" lower birdsmouth section with cf. Should I stiffen the top half? or try to find a lower aluminum section with more give?
  20. Hi all. I'd like to get your inputs on why my sails are wrinkling like this? (attached photo) what should I adjust to get the wrinkles out? snotter tension? sprit angle?
  21. Wow! Sexy! doesn't look like a wooden boat at all ... and that cat needs to go on a diet
  22. that would be.... just a sheet How's about a lug rig like on Amanda or Goat Island skiff? but Dave's right it is a fairly simple rig. Another alternative might be to convert to sail track instead of sleeved ones? (just assuming that's what you have now) as it's definitely easier to pull a halyard then to step a mast on the water. If your kids need to row out prior to rigging where do they stow their oars? I had 7' oars on my S11N and couldn't find a place to put them away when sailing on an 11' boat.
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