Building CS17 #338

[Hirilonde]

I'd like to post my progress, but I can't figure out how to include pictures?

There is a detailed thread in the Kudzu section.

[cprinos]

it's best if you upload them to a hosting site, fickr, picasa, etc (there are lots of free ones). Use that to manage the photos and then just link to them in your posts here.

[Neil Brander]

I thought I'd share my progress with you via the attached images (hopefully). As you can see I ended up putting in the forward bulkhead after I'd installed the inwales

[Neil Brander]

I bought two 14 foot 15/16 by 3 1/2 inch Mahogany boards that 'Ill be using for the keel batten and keel. The instructions seems to contradict themselves. In some places the keel is 3/4 inch and in others 1 inch. Since Carla sent 3/4 inch SS hollowbnack for a keel guard I'm assuming it is 3/4 inch, but I would appreciate confirmation?

Thanks,

Neil

[Gordy Hill]

Neil,

Personally I'd go with the 15/16 inch and ease the corners a bit. 3/4 inch on 3/4 inch seems like it should fit, and it should.....probably won't though.

Also,I am too cheap to use mahogany where it can't be seen. Nice straight-grain fir might be a bit stronger and not quite as rot resistant (trade-off)

[Neil Brander]

Gordy,

thanks for the reply. Actually I found it easier and cheaper to find good stright drained Mahogany than it is to find the same quality in fir.

[PeterP]

Some people use treated wood. PeterP

[Neil Brander]

Thanks, PeterP, but I think I'll stick with the Mahogany.

[Neil Brander]

More questions!

Epoxying and fiberglassing:

Inside chines and where the two hull halves meet forward of the forward bulkhead get two layers of fiberglass tape?

Bulkheads, seats, etc. get one layer?

I will fiberglass the entire outside of the boat, so there is no need to fiberglass the outside of the chines separately?

The entire boat, inside and out, gets 3 coats of unthickened epoxy?

When laying-up the CB from the 1 ½ by 1 1/14 strips, slightly thickened epoxy is used?

Also, a question on fasteners:

There are a lot of different sizes specified; any suggestions are the most economical way of purchasing such an assortment?

Thanks,

Neil

[John Burritt]

Yes, you need thickened epoxy gluing up the centerboard. Within reason, thicker is better than thinner. Too thin, and it will drain out of the joints as it heats up during the cure.

[Joe Anderson]

I have had good luck with getting fasteners from http://boltdepot.com

[PAR]

You can order all your fasteners at once, but this requires a level of fore thought and planning not typically seen in home built craft. Invarabily, you'll order 2 dozen of one and need 26, so you might be better off working in stages and buying bulk boxes of screws instead of a list.

[Neil Brander]

PAR, Actually I was working off the list B&B supplied, although for the life of me I can't seem to see from the plans where the all go:

Flat head screws:

1 3/4 #10 quantity 14

1 1/2 #8 quantity 80

1 1/4 # 8 quantity 12

3/4 #8 quantity 40

Finishing screws:

1 1/4 #8 quantity 80

Nor do I understand the difference between flat head screws and finishing screws (course vs fine threads?)

And I'm finding that SS is much cheaper than bronze, so is there a reason to spend more on bronze?

Thanks

[Neil Brander]

John, Thanks for explaining the reason you use thickened epoxy. It is helpful to understand why you are doing something.

Also I just want to make sure that one layer of tape is all that is necessary for everything other than the chine interiors? The reason I ask this question again is because I just re-read the Small Craft Adviser article on building this boat and he used two layers. May be he was using lighter tape? I'm using the tape supplied by B&B.

Thanks

[Hirilonde]

Nor do I understand the difference between flat head screws and finishing screws (course vs fine threads?)

I am guessing he means what we (well, many of us in the US) call an oval head screw when he says finishing. Flat head screws hide well behind bungs and good filler. Most people think oval head screws look better than flat head when installed flush and the head is left exposed. Depending on the application some like using a finish washer with oval head screws. I did just that for installing the fender stock to my dinghy. They work well for items that are removed occasionally as well.

[Neil Brander]

Another question (or two):

Do most people bevel the keel batten. The instructions say you can or you don't have to. Also the instructions show a bevel angle at the transom of 12 degrees going to 9 and then 14 at the forward bulkhead. I bought the kit and the transom angle is 8 or 9 degrees, not 12 degrees?

Also my temporary bulkhead is off center by about 3/32 to a 1/4 of an inch? Anything to be concerned about? I should also mention that I noticed this discrepancy after I "spot welded" the hull bottom and tacked and glassed the chines!

Thanks

[hokeyhydro]

I'm confused. Transom angle to me is the angle of the transom with respect true a vertical plane, as in how much the transom tilts aft. Bevel on the underside of the keel batten should match the angle of the bottom panels AKA deadrise. Are you saying the deadrise at the transom is 8 or 9 degrees? I'd have to check my plans but I thought the transom station deadrise was around 12 deg.

As for center temp bulkhead being off 1/4" - eyeball the hull and if you can't see any obvious flaws in the fairness of the chines, then no problem. I doubt a1/4" affected anything. Just hurry along so you rip out the temp bulkhead - once gone not even you will notice the tiny error. :-)

[Neil Brander]

Hokeyhydro,

I'm saying that the bottom of the transom - the deadrise - has a angle of 8 or 9 degrees not 12. But I will match the bevel to the actual bevel not the listed one. The angle at the forward bulkhead is something slightly greater than 14 (the stated angle). Using a 14 degree angle I calculate I'll be left with keel batten sides of a 1/4 of an inch at the most forward point?

Thanks for the advice,

Neil

[Peter HK]

I'd certainly bevel it as it's very easy to do and saves a lot of epoxy/filler and potential mess. You'd have to mix up a lot of thickened epoxy to bed in a non beveled keel batten and would likely have a lot of squeeze out and a lot of cleaning up. Also the beveling tends to keep it in the fitted position.

I seem to remember using a small piece of unbeveled timber the same width as the batten and roughly measuring the depth in the middle at various points along the bottom, say every foot. I then marked these points on the outside edges of the keel batten and used the powerplane to bevel between the centre line of the batten and the line joining the marks on the edge . This way it was fitted to the boat and I didn't care what the angles were. It doesn't have to be perfect.

And yes, the batten does bevel down to 1/4 inch edges at the forward end.

Cheers

Peter HK

[Hirilonde]

This way it was fitted to the boat and I didn't care what the angles were.

Good point. There is a lot of that in boat work (building, repair, remodeling). My sliding bevel gauge is one of my favorite tools for this kind of thing (not implying this batten). You don't need to turn measurements into numbers all the time to make things fit. So long as you can transfer the data from the place to the material so you can do the shaping you have done sufficient measuring.