Neil Brander

Thanks all, I now have a project for next spring!

Thanks, I think I'll try that today - weather permitting. Now for the next question: I'm getting around to thinking about oars. Yes, I know, I probably should have thought about them a while ago. But, honestly I just wanted to finish the build in order to have the boat available for this summer. Anyway, how do you stow a pair of 9 foot oars in a 17 foot boat? It seems that they would come past the CB by about 2 feet, and be a constant source of annouyance. I've searched the site, but have found nothing that adresses this specific question. Thanks

From all your posts I've concluded: An up haul for the rudder is a good idea A downhaul to lower the main is problematic and either lubrication or working with the track to smooth and round is a better option (or just pulling the sail down hand over hand and using line keepers - I like that idea) The Mizzen is raised first and lowered last Thanks all

Thank you for the detailed response. One question - I thought you were always supposed to raise the main first and lower the mizzen first? Do I have that wrong? Something about throwing the balance of the boat so the boats heads off and not into the wind?

Hello All, I am happy to say that my boat (the Ketch Me) was launched last Tuesday and I took my second sail on her on Sunday. She is a pleasure to sail - quick and responsive. It is a lovely payoff for the two years of hard work. She seems a perfect boat for my situation. Since I'm a new sailor I have a more experienced friend joining me on the sails and helping me learn what is needed to single hand the boat. He suggested to additions: A line running from the the head of the Main that would allow the sail to be quickly brought down once the halyard is released And, A line from the aft of the rudder to allow it to be quickly brought up when beaching the craft etc. What do you all think about these modifications? Make sense? Thanks, Neil

Thanks all for your valuable advice

Will the Aluthane act as an insulator between the ss track and hardware and the mast?

Thanks all, The reason I don't want to paint the masts is because over time they will get chipped and looking poorly. The reason I do want to paint them is they will look better initially and the paint will isolate the SS track and assorted hardware from the aluminum mast. But if Dave says I will have to put something on the mast and I already have the primer and paint , well I guess I lean toward painting them!

Now for the next issue: Whether to paint the masts or leave them bare aluminum? Any thoughts? Thanks, Neil

Thanks all for your help! Neil

Thank you all for your help. I'm sorry I'm so tardy with this reply but we've been traveling and just got back. One other question: the bailer has protrusions on the underside to allow the screws to counter sink. Does that mean I counter sink into the hull bottom to allow for this or do I create a gasket of some kind? It just seems like the counter sinks seem very large for the thickness of the hull bottom. Neil

Peter, again thanks. Other questions, what did you use to isolate the SS from the aluminum and for attaching deck hardware is it always necessary to use SS 316? I'm probably showing what a novice boat builder I am, but I feel it is better to get good advice than to make a mistake. Neil

Thanks Peter, This looks different from what the plans suggest(which includes an S hook?)? But. it also looks very secure and simple, What is the hardware called that connects to the eye strap on the mast? And, I gather you used the same set-up for both masts, just stopped at a clam cleat on the missen? Neil

Hi, Could someone post a picture of the rigging of the snotter. It would be most helpfull. Thanks, Neil

Peter,Thanks for the advice. I think that is exactly what I will do.

Well, I’ve finally gotten to the point where I’ve fiberglassed the hull (decided to do that since where I’ll be sailing there are alot of rocks) and am now completing final sanding and fairing. My next step is to install the keel. The instructions suggest that the keel should be fastened tothe hull by thickened epoxy and by screwing through the keel batten into thekeel. That means getting under the boatand aligning the screw to target the middle of a ¾ inch keel that is over aninch away – doable put difficult (at least for me it is). I’ve thought about just attaching the keel by thicken epoxyand a fillet on the sides. I think thiscan be accomplished by a clamp on the transom and several straps along thelength of the keel? But I’m wondering ifthis is a good idea? Will it be strongenough or do I need the screws for extra strength, etc.? My other thought is to screw from the top ofthe keel and fill the holes with thickened epoxy. I should add I will be installing a SS keelguard. Your thoughts would be appreciated, Neil

Thanks Peter for your 2c worth. I will be keeping the boat at mooring through-out the season and was thinking about using the floor boards so that I didn't get wet feet after a rain. also, to be honest, my floor has imperfections that the floor boards would hide, I was going to add a non-skid additive to the paint for the final coats on the seats and maybe even the seat sides and the trunk sides? Neil

I was thinking about putting the boards aft of the thwart AND forward of the thwart? Probably use some small blocks to hold them from slipping?. Do you put them to the keel batten or do you cover the keel batten? As you can see, what seems simple to you doesn't to me. Maybe because this is my first boat building experience and I haven't been around boats much so I have very little experience to draw upon. Any help would be appreciated and the more detailed the better, Neil

Some questions about floor boards: Are they a good idea? If they are a good idea how to you build them? And, how do you get them not to interfere with the Anderson Bailer? Thanks, Neil

MM, You are right - I do overthink not wanting to make a mistake and driving myself crazy in the process. thanks

Hi MM. Thanks for the info. I especvially like your trick on bennding the coaming. Regarding the mizzen, since the aft of the CB trunk is 126 from the bow and the center of the mizzen at the thwart is 123 and the thwart extends a 1/2 inch aft of the trunk, this would put the center of the mizzen 3 1/2 inches from the rear of the thwart? Neil

Two quick questions: What is the location of the Mizzen. The plans indicate 123 inches from the bow, but to where (front, middle rear of mast) and from where? I assume it is from the middle of the bow to the middle of the mast on the level line where the bow is 10 inches higher than the corner of the stern and then determine the foot placement by using the 3 degree angle or 1 in 20 inch formula? But it would be nice to recieve conformation of this. What is the width of the coaming and is only one strip of 1/4 inch plywood enough? These migh seem like foolish questions, but for a beginning builder it is better to ask than to assume and make a mistake. Thanks, Neil

Yes, what you say is true, and maybe it does not matter, but the side view shows the mast tube aft of the middle of the step and the small top view shows it in the middle. This can vry the step hieght by around an inch. Again. maybe it does not matter, but I figured I'd rather ask now, than make a mistake. Thanks

Well, after taking off for the summer and some I finally started to work on my Core Sound 17 again. I'm installing the front mast step and I can't figure-out where it goes relative to the distance between the top of the step and the bottom (or top) of the king blank that the mast comes through. I assume this makes a difference since it will effect the overall hieght of the mast? Can anyone help? thanks, Neil

Can anybody tell my why it is recommendedto draw a 3 inch grid on the rudder? It may be obviuos, but not to me. Thanks