Moccasin 12

[slaterturf]

I am preparing to build a Moccasin 12.  I have read other threads by those just learning to build and that is my case.  I purchased my plans in July.  I have enjoyed studying about how to build the boat since then.  I built a cardboard scale model which is 18" long. I have purchased my Okume plywood.  I have found old threads about building Moccasins, read the posts, and followed the photographs.  I have viewed the CD that came with the plans. 

There are a couple of questions I have. 1) In one of the older threads the boat was built, covered with epoxy, and then painted.  What I did not understand was why cover it in epoxy and then paint over that.  If marine plywood is used, can the boat not simply be painted without the use of epoxy?  I learned in that thread that some people have an allergic reaction to some of the components in the epoxy and the builder had to wear an epoxy protection suit.  I don't aspire to have to battle with epoxy in order to build my wooden boat.  Would somebody comment on this process?

Secondly, I am trying to understand one part of the "cut out sheet" plan.  The plywood is cut out into the butterfly layout.  As I look at the dimensions of the cutout for the "side/bow" panels I see two measurements which represent the longest dimension of a side/bow panel:  77 and one eighth and 73 and seventh eighths are the two dimensions along the top of the plan page representing longest dimensions.  This impacts the "butt" joints as the butterfly panels are folded up in the shape of the boat.  If I cut to the longest dimension, it seems I would have a bit of overlap at the butt joint.  If I cut to the shortest dimension shown, there would only be a overlap of 1 and seven eighths inch for each panel.  It seems to me in that case the butts may come together nicely by the time the butterfly panels are folded into place as the bow and stern curves pull the butt joints into the right position.  One of these dimensions is the right one to which I cut, what is the other dimension for?  So, what I don't understand is to which dimension do I cut when I cut out the butterfly? 

Thanks for the help and the clarification.  I have really enjoyed reading the various threads here.  I hope the detail is understandable to someone who has some experience building one of these boats. 

[Designer]

The shorter dimension on the sides with the shorter dimension on the bottom will make a boat that is 12' long. It seemed a pity to waste the ply ply so I added the extra dimensions so that you can get about 7" more boat if you want. Use the 77 1/8" on the sides plus the 48" on the bottom to make the longer boat.

It has been said that about one in a hundred people are sensitive to epoxy. Most people using common sense will not become sensitized. Epoxy is the best waterproofing coating that we have so it makes sense to seal the wood before painting. Okume ply is fairly soft, coating will make ithe surface a little tougher.

[slaterturf]

Excellent, thank you Graham.

[slaterturf]

I don't yet have the tool I will use to cut the 4mm Okume plywood.  I wonder what some of the more experienced would recommend to me?  I don't have a jigsaw or table saw or sabre saw.  What is going to be a good tool for the job of cutting the plywood for the boat? Thanks.

[cdunc]

I have heard good things about the Bosch 1590 jigsaw. Plan to upgrade to that soon. Use that to cut outside the lines and then finish with a block plane. I am not one of the experts I just play one on TV

[Rod Thompson]

That is a Bosch 1590 in my avitar.  Like yourself I'm new to boatbuilding.  Bought it for the project and have not been disappointed. A nice block plane and the skills and materials for keeping it sharp are just as important.

[slaterturf]

Thanks fellows.  I just ordered my Bosch jigsaw from Amazon.  I am glad to have some agreement.  I am sure there are several good jigsaws to turn to, but I had no reference to go by.  I ordered my epoxy, tape, and pump from B&B on Friday.  I have also ordered from Amazon some clamps and jigsaw blades.  I will use extend the boat the additional 7 inches Graham provided for in the plans.  I am still thinking and visualizing the whole process of building the Moccasin, however I am almost ready to draw my cut lines. 

[John Burritt]

There's no such thing as having too many clamps - especially when gluing on the gunwales.  Be on the lookout for inexpensive c-clamps - Harbor Freight, yard sales, the neighbor's garage, etc.

[bfeller]

The gunwales on my first moccasin went on fine during the layup with PVC pipe clamps. 

[John Burritt]

Another good alternative.  You can also make U-shaped pieces of plywood or stiff plastic to fit over the gunwales and tighten the fit w/ wedges.  Whatever you use, there's still no such thing as too many clamps.

[slaterturf]

I have clamps coming and a jigsaw on its way.  As I study the various photos posted on building a Moccasin I realize I need marking and measuring tools.  I have a tape measure and a ruler. However, I need to make some precise measurements.  I wonder what those of you with prior experience might recommend for marking and measuring tools.  It looks to me that what I see described in catalogs as a 12" combination square might be useful.  Any thoughts or recommendations?

[slaterturf]

I have received my jigsaw, some clamps, epoxy, and filler material.  I bought some measuring straight edges today.  I have the plywood and am clearing a space in the garage in which to stage the building platform. 

I am now wondering about what is appropriate to mark the plywood.  I am concerned a pencil will not show up well.  Can I use a sharpie marker and expect to sand out the ink?  It does not seem that would pose a problem.  I was concerned that the black ink would continue to show.  However, it seems I could either sand it out or it would be painted over in the end.

[Ray Frechette Jr]

A sharppencil should show up just fine.

A Sharpie will penetrate the wood fibers so sanding it out is probably not a good option.  Painting over it si fine,  but I would not thinka Sharpie would provide a particularly sharp line.  I think it would likely be a fuzzy line.  As such it leaves you wondering where the  line really should be??

Also when you cut withthe jig saw.  It is very hard to cut right up to the line without going over it and have a perfectly smooth and fair cut.

Generally Speaking I will cut clear of the linbe by a MM or two and then use a hand plane to get right up to the line.

Learning to sharpen, adjust, tune , and use a handplane is a bit of a learning curve, but it rewards you richly during the course of a build.  well worth finding someone who knows how to make these tool work and work well and have them show you the ropes.

[Bikermouse]

I had been expecting the hand plane to be difficult to use, and I was surprised when I used it to find it pretty easy and generally precise.  I only have a 6" block plane (it's only a 7' 10" boat!) but it's been slicing the wood with gusto!

As far as sharpening, I did sharpen the blade once when I nicked it on a proud screw.  It took me about a half hour with a two-sided stone and I did get a good edge on it and that edge is working well.

On the other hand, a half-hour at work earns me $7.50 and a new blade from Home Depot costs $4.95, so I fugure I save $2.55 every time I just buy a new blade. 

[Hirilonde]

Regardless of how much you value your time at, with practice you will sharpen the blade to a much finer edge than the new blade.  You will also get much faster at doing it.

[Ray Frechette Jr]

Takes time to drive to hardware store and that blade is not as sharp as a properly sharpened one.

And besides savings from doing it yourself si not taxed as working for wages is..

[Bikermouse]

And sharpening the blade myself did garner a sense of satisfaction that doesn't show up on a balance sheet.

On the other hand, I also now have a spare so I can switch blades if (when) I screw up again instead of wasting 1/2 hour of precious daylight sitting inside sharpening a blade.

[Ray Frechette Jr]

Yep having a spare is nice.  even a few.  Sharopen them up all at once and set thema side and replace as needed to keep work flow.

Short of dinging a blade though it generally only takes me 10 minutes or so to freshen a blade up between major reworking of theblade.

[slaterturf]

OK, I made my first measurements, spotted my first dots, and drew my first lines.  What fun. Bob Dylan playing on the radio in the background.  I did enjoy it. But I better compose my questions now before I get distracted by the new Jay Leno show.

I have studied this effort over and over, so I was glad to step into the process.  Here are a couple of questions:  I am starting with the bottom, and the plan suggests using push pins or brads at the chine marks.  Are these to hold the flexible batten in place which I then trace in order to mark the chine line?  And second: The front of the doubler has a 13" radius curve.  Can someone explain to me a method for drawing that line.  Do I cut a 13" batten and curve it into place and then trace a line along that curve?

Finally, does anybody have a suggestion for a everyday household material I might use for a batten?  I built a scale model of the Moccasin 12 out of the cardboard that comes in a folded shirt from the dry cleaners. The little boat is about 17" long.  I cut the cardboard to the scale of a piece of plywood and then built the boat. The seams are taped with scotch tape.  So I am wondering if there is something I can transform into a batten.  I don't have a table saw with which I could cut a thin piece of wood off of which would then work as a batten.

Thanks.   :read:[move][/move]

[BillB]

OK, I made my first measurements, spotted my first dots, and drew my first lines.  What fun. Bob Dylan playing on the radio in the background.  I did enjoy it. But I better compose my questions now before I get distracted by the new Jay Leno show.

I have studied this effort over and over, so I was glad to step into the process.  Here are a couple of questions:  I am starting with the bottom, and the plan suggests using push pins or brads at the chine marks.  Are these to hold the flexible batten in place which I then trace in order to mark the chine line?  And second: The front of the doubler has a 13" radius curve.  Can someone explain to me a method for drawing that line.  Do I cut a 13" batten and curve it into place and then trace a line along that curve?

Finally, does anybody have a suggestion for a everyday household material I might use for a batten?  I built a scale model of the Moccasin 12 out of the cardboard that comes in a folded shirt from the dry cleaners. The little boat is about 17" long.  I cut the cardboard to the scale of a piece of plywood and then built the boat. The seams are taped with scotch tape.  So I am wondering if there is something I can transform into a batten.  I don't have a table saw with which I could cut a thin piece of wood off of which would then work as a batten.

Thanks.   :read:[move][/move]

Yes, the push pins are to help align the batten so you can mark the curve.(you're probably like me and only have two hands) ;-)

I used a strip of wood with two small holes drilled in the ends 13 inches apart. Measure and mark the doubler at 13+ inches back from the ends and centered left and right then use a push pin in one end to hold the wood measuring strip at this mark then place a pencil in the hole at the other end and scribe the ark onto the doubler.

Do you have a yard stick - that would work - just drill holes 13 inches apart and use as described.

Yard stick would also work as batten - I used a metal yard ?stick? to mark mine.

All you are really doing is rounding the ends of the doubler which makes for a nice fitting piece with no real corners.

Bill B