BillB

Elizabeth, Thank you for your kind remarks. I made the skirts using rip-stop nylon that I purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics. You can get the same material, silicone coated, from a Kite supply shop. The idea was to make them as light as possible. These fold up and easily fit in a 1 quart zip-loc bag when not in use. The rip-stop nylon will stretch when wet and shrink back when dry but water will not weep through. I painted my Moccasin 12 and Moccasin 14 Hull # 1 so I didn't have to see the 'holes' in the boat. ☺ Let me know If I can be of further assistance. Bill wburk4133@comcast.net

Thank to all who responded. I have mentioned to Graham that I considered the $200 it cost to build my first 12 foot Moccasin the best $200 bucks I ever spent! This boat was a little more due to 3 sheets of ply instead of 2, but well worth the added cost when balanced against the enjoyment of use.. I always personalize my boats with updates to the look or feel of the craft but not the original design, like the slotted gunwales or skirts and floatation. Since you can not get back into these craft should you capsize, I want it to at least stay afloat with all my gear strapped in rather than have to chase it down the river, which I have done. I haven't weighed this boat yet, but it's sister is 37 lbs. The hull # 1 was 36 pounds but there have been additions that will increase weight by a couple pounds. This boat will weigh more, it hasn't made it out the shop yet to be weighed, I'll amend this thread with the weight. Bill

Thank to all who responded. I have mentioned to Graham that I considered the $200 it cost to build my first 12 foot Moccasin the best $200 bucks I ever spent! This boat was a little more due to 3 sheets of ply instead of 2, but other than that it is the same boat as the 12 with few differences in design. I always personalize my boats with updates to the look or feel of the craft but not the original design, like the slotted gunwales or skirts and floatation. Since you can not get back into these craft should you capsize, I want it to at least stay afloat with all my gear strapped in rather than have to chase it down the river, which I have done. I haven't weighed this boat yet, but it's sister is 37 lbs. The hull # 1 was 36 pounds but there have been additions that will increase weight by a couple pounds. This boat will weigh more, it hasn't made it out the shop yet to be weighed, I'll amend this thread with the weight. The attached image shows the fishing rod mount that fits into the slots in the guwales and locks in place with rotating wood catches, so easy to put on and lake off, same with the design of the bows for the skirts. Bill Sorry for the double post . . ..

Almost finished, just the skirts and related support bows left to make. I liked the slotted in wales I built into hull 3 so incorporated them into this boat along with flotation voids in the ends. The slots come in handy for mounting removable pieces to the boat like bows for the skirts and rod holder mount that spans the boat just far enough forward to not interfere with paddling. The spreaders and the breast-hook are mahogany and ash with clear pine used on the gunwales. The boat is finished bright with satin gloss varnish. It will be the boat I take on this years' trip. Bill

attached is an image of the search results for epoxy creep. the link shown will take you to the data.

Here is a link to more information about epoxy creep HTTP://www.adhesivestoolkit.com/Docs?test?Durability%20Design%20and%20Testing%20-%20Creep.xtp It looks like you can't connect from here, so have to copy and paste the link in your browser.

I agree, the epoxy doesn't creep the joined surfaces do, when under stress and over time. Epoxy we use on boats is stronger than the wood it is joining and I have never had an epoxy join fail, but have had the wood fail leaving wood still attached to the epoxy.

I have experienced this with both thickened and un thickened epoxy. The gunwales are attached to the hull with thickened epoxy and show no sign of separation. The scarf joints are 8:1. and are staggered on the hull. You may have hit upon the problem as starved, due to over clamping. There is no crack at the join, it is as though the two pieces are pulling apart and the epoxy is stretching but not cracking. I refinished my boats every two years and can easily return the gunwales to their new condition. It is just the fact that it is happening that puzzles me.

For the gunwales on my Moccasin boats, I cut pieces to make the 3/4 inch square strips then scarf the pieces together with un thickened epoxy to achieve the desired length. When new, the joint is a visible line but over time the line becomes a line you can see and feel. The joint appears to be pulling apart lengthwise, could this be epoxy creep or am I doing something wrong? This time I have pinned the join with a dowel through the scarf joint in an effort to prevent this creeping. Anyone else experience this problem? Bill Update see attached image The dowel is not in previous gunwales but I am going to try it on this one.

I have had similar results when finish was shaken not stirred prior to application. 2 cents

Just returned from our annual camping trip. This year was to Murtle Lake in British Columbia, Canada. Murtle is the largest paddle only lake in North America. The lake has native Rainbow and Kokanee trout. The rainbow get quite large and provide an excellent fishing experience. Some cannot be brought to the surface with light tackle. We carry 110 to 120 pounds of gear in the boat and the Moccasin 14 handles the load very well. We have rip-stop nylon skirts that cover 2/3 of the boat and help keep out rain and splashes. We prefer to set up a base camp and do day trips fishing and exploring. We also do the Bowron Canoe Circuit in British Columbia, which is a world class 70 mile loop through lakes, rivers and portages. This trip involves making/breaking camp everyday in order to complete the circuit. It is easy to cover 10 miles a day to complete the circuit in 7-8 days. Highly recommend this boat, it has never failed to deliver us safe and sound to our destination. BillB

I build in a detached, unheated garage and have installed a night-light socket and bulb in the cabinet I keep all my products that are damaged by the cold. Just turn it on when the nighttime temps are going to be below 40. I heat my epoxy that has been idle for a few months before I use it, stirring well before measuring out amounts. My preference for measuring epoxy is by weight using a scale. This method seems to use more hardener but a little hotter mix works well when it's cold. Bill

GREAT LOOKING BOAT ! Outstanding job Alex. It sounds like she sails as good as she looks. I have been looking to build this boat as a row and small OB fishing boat, so the many images you posted were very much appreciated. Thank you Bill B

I plan on attending on Sunday the 8th. Would like to bring my 14 foot Moccasin, but can only attend the one day :-(

Ron, I left you a PM, since I didn't hear back I don't know if you got it. I mentioned a class 2 RIVER not rapids, these boats are not designed for white water and you can not get back in them if you capsize. That being said, I added flotation to the ends and secure all gear in the boat. The boat won't sink and I won't loose gear even tho' the boat is almost fully submerged. Bill

Since Building the first 14 foot version 5 years ago, it has been used exclusively and never given me cause for alarm even when running down a wilderness river (class 2) in Canada. It is also used throughout the year for fishing on local lakes and rivers. The Camping trips are 2 weeks long and we carry about 110 to 120 pounds of food and gear in the boats. Most trips require portaging between waterways and for this we strap the boat with all the gear to a 2 wheeled cart and hike to the next waterway. I mention this so you get an idea of the environment this boat lives in. Save for the usual scratches a canoe tends to get there is no discernible wear. Anyway, I am in process of building another Moc 14 and thought I would post some progress pictures and try not to ramble too bad. Click Images to enlarge. The 'butterfly' getting ready to come 3-D 　 All the way up and nothing broke! 　 the 'clamp' I use to unsure that the butterfly doesn't crack as it is forced into its new shape. I use a screw and nut for easy assembly - personal preference, nothing more. 　 a method of keeping the ends together without any permanent marks left on the hull. The 'clamp' is cut from scrap occume to fit behind the wood blocks the C clamps are holding. How do you clamp the gunwales on the pointy ends? Use wood clamps with a piece of 80 grit abrasive screen between the clamp and the wood being clamped. This mesh is available at most hardware stores and commonly used by drywall installers. The inside seams are taped, the gunwales are on and the outside seams are taped and drying. I have two coats of epoxy inside and out and need to apply a couple more before the finish goes on (which I haven't decided on yet). I use a wet sponge that has an abrasive side to scrub the blush then wipe off with the sponge side, followed with a damp cloth. The bulkheads are being installed in the ends, they are articulated to curve to fit the hull. If I finish it bright, I'm going to call it the Knotty Girl. Decided to use the skirts from the Moc.. 14 hull #1 for this year's trip and make new skirts this winter. Incorporated a different style gunwales than called for in the plans. The spacers taper under the inwales and allow it to blend with the sides and continue to the ends. Hull ID printed on tissue paper and applied to the hull. I tried onion skin but found that did not become transparent enough. I ended up using tissue paper, like you wrap gifts with, It's a little tricky to print on but it does become transparent when embedded in the clear coat. Getting ready to launch. Underway Spent the day fishing and enjoying the new boat. Even caught a couple nice trout for dinner. Bill

Sold Steve Redmond's Whisp Built from plans in 2004. Used for rowing and fishing on local lakes. Weights about 70 pounds and is considered 'car top-able'. Built with 4mm Okume plywood and Spruce. $1000.00 wburk4133@comcast.net

HEY! another new boat from the B&B folks! Looks good, but I still am leaning toward the Spindrift hull design. Bill

Thanks for the input Greg. I'm actually shopping for my next project, looking to build a 10 to 12 foot craft for fishing and rowing and like the look of the Spindrift. I will not be building the sail options for the boat. I could buy a factory made craft, but prefer to build and personalize. :-) Bill

I was looking through the Spindrift line on B&Bs Web Page and the picture of the Spindrift 12S looks like the bow is higher than the other models of Spindrift. Is the bow really higher or is it just the perspective of the picture? Anyone have a profile picture of the 12S they could post? Bill B

My plan set had two paddle shapes. One was shown as a single blade paddle like a standard canoe paddle and the other was refered to as the Pettingill Paddle. I chose the first blade shape and made a two ended paddle like used for a kayak. I made a blade press so I could cup the blade lengthwise and widthwise and could duplicate the blade shape for both blades. If you want the paddle CAD I created, will send it off line, just let me know your Email. Send a personal post thru this forum with your Email address so as not to post it for the public to see on this forum. Bill

Gregg, When you start to fold the butterfly into a boat shape, the stem will come together along it's length except for the section right next to the arrowhead shaped piece you added. This gap will be resolved with thickened epoxy and fiberglass tape when you add the filets and tape/epoxy the seams. Secure a piece of plastic (like from a plasic bag) to the outside of the seam with masking tape and then do the filet and tape on the inside. The plastic will keep the epoxy from falling through the crack and can be easily removed after the epoxy sets. You will be adding epoxy and tape to the outside of the seams too, so the join will be sealed. I like to put extra layers of fiberglass tape on this area of the hull because this is where the most scraping happens when beaching the boat. Bill

I would guess at least 400 lbs, but Graham would be your best source of information. Bill

Bill, I live in Tacoma and have purchased from Edensaw Woods located in Port Townsend @ 211 Seton Rd. and in Tacoma @ 1201 Puyallup Ave. link to their web site http://www.edensaw.com/ Bill B Also check out Flounder Bay Boat Works in Anacortes, Wa.