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Posted

Forgot to tell you all... had a chance to test out the tiller tamer over the Thanksgiving break... it works great and produces PLENTY of friction to lock the tiller in place. It is really nice to be able to leave the helm for seconds (or minutes) at a time to adjust things elsewhere on the boat with both hands. Also, the uphaul I added to the rudder is a real treat because now I can attach it before launching the boat, which is slightly easier and more convenient than doing it later, on the water. I definitely recommend both upgrades.


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Posted

Ray suggested it to me. It was easy enough to accomplish... First I rotated the rudder by hand several times to find the ideal location for attaching an uphaul to the blade--a position that would be as high as possible (to avoid drag in the water), but not so high that it couldn't rotate the blade up far enough to clear the water (i.e., not so high the uphaul would bind on the rudder housing before raising the blade clear of the water).

Once I identified the right attachment place, I drilled a 1/2" hole through the face of the rudder (with the edge of the hole located about 1/2" in from the trailing edge), intersected by another 1/4" hole drilled through the back edge of the rudder blade near the top. Then I sealed the holes with a few coats of epoxy, let it dry, and inserted a 1/4" rope and tied a knot to keep it in place. (Essentially, the same method by which the downhaul is attached to the blade in the plans... only the location differs.)

The rope can be run up to a bullseye on the aft end (starboard or port side) of the tiller and forward to a cleat within easy reach of the cockpit. Since my downhaul was mounted to starboard, I mounted the uphaul cleat to port. Instead of a bullseye, I routed the line through a hole in the aft edge of my tiller, which has some overhang to it. Gives it a slightly cleaner look.

Works great, especially when launching from, or sailing through, a shallow shore with lots of seaweed dragging on the blade. You can raise the blade a little or a lot to reduce the drag and sail through even in light winds, sacrificing only a little directional control (depending on how much you raise the blade).

You can sort of see the uphaul in this picture, though it doesn't show the attachment at the rudder blade.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finally had a chance to write up another mod/upgrade I made to our CS20: a 12VDC power pack. It's an ideal solution for folks powering a GPS/Sonar unit like ours, or any other 12VDC device with an accessory plug. Came out very neat and handy. Looks good. Fits under the foredeck perfectly.

Here's the link to my page describing it (with pics):  http://www.roguepaddler.com/cs20u.htm

Posted

Thanks Wes for the link to your website and the building details.  Being in building mode again it is just the sort of thing like like to run my eye over.  Doing a second open boat will allow me to harness the learning from my first (a process you will be familiar with.  (Lucked onto a 50% off some Ronstan fittings - so got ahead of myself buying blocks and cam cleats)

Posted

Hi Wes

I am going to build a Lapwing.  Most of my sailing is single handed - so something a little lighter and smaller appealed.  I like the aesthetic of the lapstrake rounded hull and wanted to try out this different building method.  Like everything about Graham's boats - so when this design came along it gave me the combo of lapstrake, cat ketch rig (also a chance to start with sail track and battened sails), a cockpit layout I like and I can stay loyal to the B and B team (obvious choice would have been to go for a design by the locally based John Welsford - but would for ever have to put up with a ribbing from my friends here who sail these boats that I had 'finally seen the light').  On top of that is just the opportunity to build again and perfect what I learned from the first time.

This summer it will be the Redfish King that gets me out on the water.

Guest wwbaginski
Posted

what a nice website, Wes! Thanks for sharing so much info. I'm ready with my boat actually, but still a lot to do: seat hatches, a tiller extension etc. I think I'll look at your website frequently.

Posted

That's right... I remember seeing a post that said you're considering the Lapwing. Beautiful boat. I'd be tempted to build it too if I hadn't just finished our CS20. We really like the looks of the lapstrake, and we also considered Welsford's Pathfinder before settling on Graham's CS.

Thanks for the compliments on the website. I thought most folks already knew it existed, but if not, you can get to it by clicking the little globe icon under my avatar.

Posted

Hi Chris... I found the box at a sporting goods store here in Augusta, GA called "Academy Sports." It was in the fishing/hunting/boating area of the store. I suspect they're fairly common at sporting goods stores. Just a simple plastic box with a flip style lid and a thin foam gasket. (Meant to be waterproof, though mine isn't now that I've drilled the ventilation holes.)

Posted

Richard,

I see that you are going to build a Lapwing.  It sails as well as the CS and is just a bit more tender but still holds up to Graham standing on the side deck fully rigged "Lapwing".  Actually there was quite a bit of freeboard left. 

Make no mistake that this is a more involved build but the reward is a boat that not only sails well but can get approving looks from "traditionalists".  Not that we care a lot about that but it is an indication of the appearance of the boat.  I anticipate that the kit will take up a lot of extra work involved in a lapstrake boat.  Graham's kits pop together amazingly well.

Posted

Tom, I'd love to see more pics of your beautiful Lapwing if you get a chance to post some. I was very disappointed I didn't make it to the B&B meet to look it over up close and in person.

Okay, so here's a story that Ray will force me to eat humble pie over... Had beautiful weather on Thursday here (low 70s with a gentle 3-6 kts wind). I went out on the lake solo and flew the mizzen staysail. Finally got her to set correctly and was able to attain speeds of 5.25 knts! I was really impressed, and managed to get her flying so perfectly that I was able to let go, set the tiller tamer, and go forward to snap some great pics. Unfortunately, my home computer is fried so I'll have to post the pics at a later date.

But here's the humbling part: At the end of a long run down the lake, I was taking down the mizzen staysail and getting myself tangled in her. This took my attention away just long enough to run aground (not on the shore, but on one of the long shallow outcroppings that sticks out into the lake at drought level). The boat hit gently and gradually, but the bungee downhaul on the CB snapped and took away my ability to steer before the hull ran aground too. So I stuck a foot in the water and shoved off again. Then I dropped the motor in the water to reverse away because I was being blown back onto the shore (directly downwind of me, and nowhere to go but straight upwind). But as un-luck would have it, The main sheet snagged instead of running free, which kept the sail powered just enough to run me back aground just as I was starting the motor. One pull on the cord and the motor came to life and killed in a second as the prop struck a rock and broke the shear pin inside (as it's designed to do, of course). Still no damage to the boat or the motor really because all of this was nice and gentle (well, as gentle as a "grounding" can be)... but I was in a fix now because I had no motor. So I pulled the motor aboard for inspection, but couldn't fix the shear pin without tools (I took them out last time I cleaned the boat, and forgot to put them in again... ugh). Here's the part Ray will love... I also didn't have a paddle or oars, which I know is a cardinal sin, but since I'm planning to build the oars this Spring (and since I have this shiny new motor), I thought I could get away without buying a temporary canoe paddle.

Anyway, I finally managed to sail my way off the shore (thank God for the split rig... without which I couldn't possibly have maneuvered in such light wind, as the boat wasn't moving fast enough to give directional control with the rudder, especially without the CB). Then I had to tack excruciatingly slowly (0.6 knots) up the long narrow channel back to the ramp. Some fisherman motored by and thought I was nuts tacking back and forth at a ridiculously slow speed to gain maybe 10 feet of headway at a time... but I managed to tack back within 50 yards of the ramp, then, lacking wind, was forced to don my waders and drag her home by the bowline.  :)

Anyway, I kept hearing Ray in my head calling me panty waist and ribbing me about not having a fancy set of oars on board.  :)  I guess Murphy's law is to blame. Of course, it's also my own damn fault for not having tools aboard. But thanks to Graham for designing a boat that can sail in next-to-no-wind. Otherwise, I would literally have been stranded down a creek without a paddle.  :)

Posted

Wes, I'd have endless stories like this, except for three things:

1. I don't have to post them if they're too embarrassing.

2. They happen when I'm alone, and the witnesses--if any--don't post here.

3. My crew--if any--ALSO don't post here!

Posted

Ha! Good rules, Jeff. I could've kept silent, but after teasing Ray, I felt obliged to confess that, despite knowing better than to get myself into such a stupid situation, I still got into it. If you can't laugh at yourself... well, you're not trying nearly hard enough.  :)

Maybe my little anecdote will remind others to double-check that their tools, and oars, are onboard.  :)  The very idea, though, that I would run aground on a day with winds so low and water so calm never dawned on me... it was just the perfect storm of stupid choices and not paying attention. It's funny in retrospect, when I consider all the foolish things I had to do to find a way to break my motor:

1. Build masts with the foot of the sails so low that visibility is impeded. (My sails are oversized, so in retrospect, my masts probably should've been another foot taller, too, to make it possible to see under them.)

2. Install a tiller tamer so the boat can't round up while the helm is unattended. (Damn convenient, but in this case, it aided the problem of sailing onto the shore in a nice, straight line. :)  )

3. Sail too close toward the shore when I knew (due to the drought) that the bottom was unpredictably shallow even 100 yards out from the water's edge.

4. Absorb myself in the fascinating project of launching and retrieving the staysail alone.

5. Worry about neatly packing up the staysail BEFORE worrying about adjusting to a clear, open course. (I was just drifting so darn slow, I assumed I was safe, and didn't bother to look AROUND the main or I would've noticed the rocky outcropping I was drifting onto.)

6. Worry about fixing the CB uphaul when it broke BEFORE simply adjusting the sails to pivot onto a clear course (before the hull ran aground).

7. Fail to double-check the main sheet for tangles to make sure the sails eased out fully to de-power them BEFORE shoving back off the rocks.

8. Fail to double-check the depth (on my handy sonar unit) before dropping the motor in and starting her up.

The fact of the matter is that it all happened in a matter of a minute or less. I was just in too big of a hurry and there would've been no motor trouble if I had just taken a deep breath and a look around before trying to get back off the rocks. Luckily, the rocks were very small and the keel has the stainless rub strip so there was no damage to the boat. Likewise, the motor shear pin is replaced and good as new. There was no real danger or threat, but when you hear that unnerving sound of scraping--even at such a slow speed--it's natural just to panic and instantly think, "I've got to get off these rocks quickly!" Anyway, now I've got more incentive to build the oars I should have onboard anyway.

Posted

GPS/Sonar works great when you keep your eye on the screen!  :)

I was in 60 feet of water one moment, and on the rocks the next. They were easy to see by eye, in fact, but they were directly opposite my main sail, so when I scanned the horizon while stowing the staysail, I saw myself safely far from shore (at least 100 yards away) and drifting at a very slow 1.5 knots. Just didn't see the little finger of rocks right next to the hull.

Posted

That sounds like my regular day on the water, Wes, no need to fret.  Always post the embarrassing stuf - It's the most entertaining.

And if you had oars on board you wouldn't have sailed yourself out of the situation.  You would have ended up relying on the dadgum "ash breeze" ;D

Posted

;D ;D

BradW- if you'd have been in a CS, you wouldn't have HAD  a high pressure diesel line to blow out.

;D ;D

On the anchor rode comments- that's one of the FIRST things I taught Laura when teaching her to boat handle.

I crewed for a bit on a 50 foot schooner- when you take a line loose on that, for most ANYTHING, you better have a turn left on a cleat, cause you AIN'T gonna hold it otherwise.

An anchor rode is the same deal. Good point we should ALL drill ourselves on. I ALWAYS flake out some rode, take a turn ( or two) and then drop the hook- ALWAYS.

Posted

Here's that pic of the mizzen staysail I promised. She was flying beautifully, pulling me along about 4.5 - 5.5 knots in only 6-7 knots of wind, and stayed set so nicely that I was able to sit on the bow for about three minutes composing a few shots like this.

Posted

Nice picture of the staysail Wes. Also a very sharp job on the boat!!!!!

The staysail is a lot of fun to fly. Last year when we made the trip to 10,000 islands I didn't have mine rigged quite right yet let alone knowing how to trim it. But this years trip will be different. I used to be disappointed when we didn't have 15 knots of wind. After learning how to use the staysail I am disappointed that I can't fly it.

Very beautifully built boat Wes you should be proud.

Scott

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