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ecgossett

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Everything posted by ecgossett

  1. See attached draft of sign to be printed for boat.. Will be 18" x 12"
  2. Guys take a look at the www.manart-hirsch.com catalog (Jenn and I still order most of our stuff through them for jobs we do in WA). Usually with wholesale we paid $2 a foot in twenty foot sections of stainless. Keep in mind to order from them you have to set up a business account, which requires other documentation from your state. It might be worth getting a bunch of small boat builders together and starting a COOP for buying west marine and other parts from companies for good prices. M-H also has things like thin plastic washers to put between SS screws/bolts and the aluminum surface you might be attaching something to. The catalog is great to look through and read descriptions of various materials and what they can be used for, zippers are very inexpensive; for prices you have to call everytime as they constantly change. One dodger we did for a boat in GA used flexiable plastic tracking on the frame, and bolt rope/luff attached around window to slide in; then it had a couple of snapps on side/middle to hold in place (the whole window was side ways tear drop type shape). Check out http://marinefabricatormag.com/ for spec guide, how to articles, and MOST IMPORTANT the http://marinefabricatormag.com/resources/timestandards Time standards, that gives you a resource when getting bids to know if the "professional" is over charging you for the job. On our invoices materials are always at wholesale with shipping included, then a seperate line item for GAS (transportation back and forth to jobsite), and then a line entry for time. Occasionally depending upon shipyard or marina, we had a special tax item to pay between 5-20% of money to be able to work there. Some places quotes have a per foot or yard type price, and you never see hours, this lets the fabricator charge a high amount per hour. Something else you guys might do it order a sample of "Coast Guard" fabric and Sunbrella. CG is actually made by same company and actually intended for marine use, but is just slightly heavier and more wear resistant. What usually happens is everyone wants the known name of Sunbrella, so fabricators order the cheaper non name CG then put sunbrella tags (you can actually order them), on the non-name brand.
  3. Graham is already referenced on the front of the cards very well. I'm not trying to build any coresounds, just get a design I like in the hands of more people. Putting out good gouge, is always appreciated. I hate being somewhere and seeing a beautiful design, or features I like and having to jump through hoops and internet searches to find out more info. Just on the EC22, I have a list of questions from looking at photos of various builds and little features that are different, or I'm not quite sure how it was done. Then looking at the plans and reading Graham's posts, and sundog's blog I've come up with more questions on things, mostly was it changed, or did the original way finally win out. Later
  4. Just trying to get all the attributes for the boat.. I've seen the CS series described as sharpie based designs in a few places. I've found once you tell a lot of sailers that its based upon a sharpie design, lightbulbs come on. Then smiles when you show the article of average CS17/20 speeds from the EC2013. Up here in Washington, it takes good ammo explaining Cat-ketch B&B design virtues to all the people that think the more "traditional" sail rigs and boat designs are better, or the individuals replacing decent sails with junk rigs for quote "better performance". Hopefully my full battened flat top sails, with extra roach will be here in time for the show.
  5. Does anyone have any decent drawings of the Core Sound 17 showing boat, with sail options, and rudder/centerboard, similar to the EC22 page on B&B yachts? How about B&B Logos, or sail graphics? I'm having a sign made up for the boat show in September, and need graphics, Also ordering new business cards with my simple description of the CS17 on the back.. Here is what I have on the back of the card right now that I hand out when people start asking questions. I had to minimize info to make it all fit. FAST, SEAWORTHY, ECONOMICAL, STABLE, & EASY TO BUILD Sharpies are long, narrow flat bottomed sailboats, with extremely shallow draft, centerboards & straight, flaring sides. They were traditionally fishing boats used for oystering. The sharpie is characterized by the flat bottom, it is this flat bottom that allows extreme shallow draft & great load carrying ability. They are fast & handy under sail, leading to their adaptation as cruising & racing yachts. One would think that the flat-bottomed hull would be totally unsuitable for rough water; under press of sail, with hull heeled well over, the hard chine between hull bottom and topsides presents a nice V-shape to the waves. This hard chine aides in preventing leeway. Does anyone have any suggested info for sign, and or ideas (HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED)? I would like to print waterproof photo page's of different Core sound 17's to have next to the sign on boat..
  6. If anyone has any B&B designs in the vicinity of the September festival, they are all being grouped together near the small craft advisor booth. This will be out on the commons area on the waterfront side of the Wooden Boat Foundation. Also grouped in this area will be all the other small boats. A great oppurnity to closely compare designs, ideas, and nifty little things various sailors have installed. IT IS NOT TO LATE TO SIGN UP YOUR SMALL CRAFT FOR THIS!!!
  7. I've never had a problem with dropping the sails in a hurry. Usually once your in irons, the main comes down fast, sometimes with a little noise from the wind flapping the sails. For track lubricant I use jig-alo dry lubricant from Walmart (orange can), that is clothing friendly, and far cheaper then the equivlant from West Marine. Occasionally the sails bind on the track (such as this weekend at Pocket Yacht Palooza in Port Townsend while demonstrating sails), but raising slightly then dropping again usually clears it.
  8. I just worked hard to removed all traces of the white paint I'd put on the coaming to protect it temporarily (year), and varnish it. Par, after looking at the cap on the Scamp's coaming, thats not a bad Idea.
  9. Graham Brynes of B&B Yachts and designer of the famous Core Sound series of cat-ketch's will be @ Port Townsend's Wooden Boat Festival September 6-8. Graham will be presenting a topic during the 9:30am slot on Sunday! During most of the show he will be available at the Small Craft Advisor booth, with an assortment of plans for review and sale, and CD's of build photos for sale. For anyone not able to make the show, let Carla @ B&B Yachts know as he should still be in the area Monday.
  10. 1/4" coaming. After being flipped, smashed, and then repair pieces put in, it looks a little patchwork on parts. Eventually the whole thing will need replaced. With my build for the EC22 getting ready to go into full swing, and selling the CS17 in the future, I just want it to look nice.
  11. It helps protect the wood from damage, (ie oars, people getting in, stuff accidentally hitting them, & my kids).
  12. Duckworks has some nice looking SS oarlocks that bolt on (over the oar), and look nice and strong. After explaining about my oarlock breaking, the guys at the Port Townsend Foundry where telling me to be careful where purchasing bronze oarlocks, depending upon strength you use.They said if they are cast out of bronze ingots they are stronger then casting from recycled material.
  13. I really wish I had known about graham's advice and glassed bottom first before installing keel.. The front half of my keel has been one of my most problematic areas, even with epoxy strips, and later kevlar strips glassed in. In the future I will take the advice given and put a plastic strip or SS on the bottom keel. I don't regret 10 ounce cloth on bottom for all the rocky beaches I've been on, and watching my boat as the tide went around get bounced with wave action on a rocky lagoon bottom by Hope Island near Shelton WA. Glassing the sides was the best thing I ever did. It has not only saved my boat when coming in on a badly designed boat ramp and being windward with massive waves beating me against the dock (last December in Machester, WA), but saved the hull when it flew/tumbled off my trailer in the car accident (t-boned). The boat was the only thing that didn't get totalled. That being said glass has probably added weight, but if you are going to use your boat at a lot of docks, or in rough areas it's probably worth it. I noticed the shells on a piling at low tide barely bothered it.
  14. I've used orange based paint remover, and gotten all epoxy and paint off coaming, then sanded it down. One of my goals is to strengthen the top of the coaming. Would 3"x6 ounce glass tape work all the way around the top (with one side resting against deck), laminated in place with plastic look good? i will be one inch short of inside bottom of coaming, but this would significantly strengthen the coaming for wear and tear. I'm tired of redoing varnish and or epoxy. My other option is to use the Schooner Varnish I picked up, and water the first coat down with pain thinner, so it soaks in and do the whole coaming in that and worry about replacing the coaming instead at a future date. Oh, who's going to the Pocket Yacht Palooza in Port Townsend this weekend?
  15. For small stuff acid brushes are great bang for the buck. How long do you soak the brushes in acetone to clean off epoxy?
  16. Norm you need to talk to Hal Spars. Nice job on the mast step, thats a good idea. Usually for me the harder part is breaking the seal and pulling it out.
  17. Sorry for the late response. Surlite is fine, just make sure you get a good outdoor thread and don't cheap out in that department.
  18. Goto www.sailrite.com and look at the dodger kits, this will give you an idea. My guess without knowing how big you are making your bows are 6 yards of 46" fabric. Much depends on how wide the fabric is, if you are putting in vinyl, etc. Usually we stitch the vinyl window right onto the canvas then carefully cut the canvas off front of window, for some simple dodgers we just make borders and save fabric. A lot depends upon what you are doing. I recommend using CoastGuard Fabric by Glenn Raven who also makes Sunbrella. Coastguard is slightly stiffer and half once heaver, and wears a lot better. Sunbrella was intended for awning not on boats and wears holes more easily. The two fabrics are interchangeable for pattern and colors. A better fabric if you can afford it is Seamark, it is sunbrella coated with vinyl on the backside, and keeps everything on a small boat much drier. Use sew on bolt rope, and with plastic channel can be bend to match curves on front, yet keep water from splashing between (or just use snaps) deck and fabric. Make sure you spend the extra for the better ourdoor thread, its money well spent. For you guys in the PI purchase the UV 303, it will keep your thread from rotting if you use cheaper thread, and add years the life of the fabric or windows.
  19. I wet sanded most of my graphic epoxy bottom, I didn't have time to finish it all. You can feel the difference, between final coats, and then the 180 and wet sanding.
  20. Make sure you read Wes's http://www.roguepaddler.com/coresound20.htm there was another good article on building a CS17 up here in WA that I can't find. I built mine in almost the same order as Wes's using his site as reference for some spots where the plans needed more description. My favorite two tools where the Japanese Hand Saw, and Dremel Multi-Max (buy the warranty). My favorite instrument was the yellow angle finder from Lowes that can be used in a variety of positions.
  21. PS Islandplanetsails.com in Oregon sent me this link: http://www.rbsbattens.com/battens/rbs-roller-battens/ Looks interesting for Cat-ketch sails.
  22. I want more performance based sails for my CS17, with a flat top.. Does anyone have dimensions that worked for them? My sails really suck in light wind, but rock in moderate to heavy.
  23. You can do the tabernacle on the 17 as well. I angled my build in my garage with inches to spare on each end. If you put a tiller tamer on, and sheet the mizzen in, the bow points into the wind, and allows you to move around and do stuff. The CS17 is easy single handed, however that is rarely the case as it seems easy to find "crew" to go out in it. I take my daughter who is now 5 all the time by myself or my boys who are now 7 & 8. The boys are starting to be able to help, more, and it turns out my daughter is very good steering and holding a course in the wind; so its not quite single handing it anymore with the kids on board . I don't think the two foot different on weight matters, for such a small difference you get a much faster and funner boat.
  24. I've used the trick of putting a pencil through for small holes, or a cheap piece of cut out wood sanded and waxed for larger holes.. It makes drilling through easier, and saves on epoxy. The pencil trick is one of my favorites. Sears makes a nice precision drill guide (poor man's press). http://www.sears.com/promax-79251-precision-drill-guide-tool-for-portable/p-SPM6308615907?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4
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