ecgossett

My Core Sound 17 with galvonized trailer is for sale. Email me at ecgossett at gmail dot com or call 912-322-2661 to discuss price. 4th kid is a month away, and boat will be a little crowded, planning building a CS20 or EC22 next. We move to Silverdale WA (military orders) on August 15th, which gives a deadline to sell the boat on this coast before I pull it across the country.

Are these prices good for Okoume? $80 4mm $96.20 6mm Ideas on 9mm price? Any good plywood places in WA state? Thanks, Edward

I noticed where mistermoon did good was upwind, especially with his slightly bigger sails then mine.

We've gotten close to 100 or maybe even 95 according to GPS but speed is slow, and in a current or wind not good. Last week we took the boat out in some heavy weather, unreefed and the boat pointed upwind very tight and sweet, speed was slow but we did go upwind. We compensated by letting her drift back to 55-60 then tightened up again to keep better speed up.

I went through that, the stainless looks easy to get a piece and bend then drill some holes.. Not sure how the other bolt was held in. Finding the right ss S hook seems to be a pain, might have to order from B&B. Now I just have to figure out the right curve.

For some reason the search window on this is not linked or appearing anywhere on my connection, but I'm going via satellite and it's slow. I liked using PVC in drawing and wrapping glass tape or something around it.. Has anyone actually accomplished this? I'm thinking it's going to be more straightforward to do a curved version of my current boom rather then attempting a wishbone.

What worked and what didn't for rudder/centerboard guards. The rope worked ok where it was applied, and in some cases the rope with epoxy applied has been eaten nicely but still protected wood. 1) Did not go high enough on forward ends of centerboard and rudder. 2) In some places the wood still got sandblasted clean above/sides of rope. Out of this I think I need to find a plastic or some other type of better guard. In those places where it went to wood it ate away several layers of fiberglass tape. It's not horrible or anything but needs a second look for future sailing.

I attached a photo with my new reefing system.. The orange and red lines I'm not sure about but trying to figure out a way to easily roll sail up with out having to tie things. Is it easier to use regular cleats where all the lines run to or use the same camcleats that everything else uses? The mizzen I'm not even sure where I want to end reef lines because the mast is starting to get crowded awfully fast. For the main/mizzen halward I figured I would use the same color thread I used on the head of the main (so I don't accidentally put up wrong sail), and stictch it into line at location to stop at camcleat when lowering sail for reefing.

I'm going to have to make at least one sprit boom for the main sail. After many tests when we are on a stbd tack we are 1-2knots slower always probably due to sail draped over boom.. Now I just have to figure out how much of a curve I need. A little worried that reefing lines will have issues with this due to curved boom.

My bad winch, blame my slip on 30 hours of jet ride and 11 hrs difference in time its 4 in morning here but 6pm BACK HOME.

I found out the hardway (demasted the mizzen) when my mast step failed, partially due to some two-part epoxy interlux primer around where I put the step. I had bare wood to bond but not enough, and I got lazy and didn't scrape off the two-part epoxy thinking it would bond ok. The bare wood part didn't fail actually tore wood off under bond, the epoxy paint area is where the tear started that took the whole thing off.

Thats ok tomorrow I get to sail a Colgate 26 (with no engine), but this is the Indian Ocean so lots of wind, should be fun (only one reef point on the sails). The boat does have all the trimmings self tailing cleats, all lines leading aft, etc.

I found out the hardway some surfaces like 10ounce fiberglass cloth might require more.

I never even opened the throttle all the way to hit 7 knots. It handled nice but I reinforced my transom with some temporary wood wedged in the aft compartment. The day before it sailed great with the motor on the back. And no it's not my motor.

West Marine usually has some precut ropes that have been returned for a good price. For $37 Wally World has a great price on 150ft of anchor line right now. Carla/B&B didn't have enough of the special S hooks they use so I bought some at ACE and bend one end in with a vice clamp.

We're putting cushioned foam with snaps from a throw cushion on the mid forward side. Where the oarlocks go, even with the raised wood I installed it is still uncomfortable, contemplating a couple different options to fix that.

Ok I did hear some heated discussion at the first bridge, mostly when his time to open had an hour added to it, only because he claimed he didn't know the sail boats where still below.

What problems at draw bridges?? The biggest we had was going underneath directly against winds and current.

Right now I'm at 1" thickness and have all the defects out. I have a usable rectangle of 34 X 11 5/8. Maybe we could do something like this to keep greater thickness (strength). I hate to turn 25% of it into dust. This new seat is made laminated mahogany (for strengh versus keep original piece). Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas on this? I did not want to cut further into the trunk to install this. Maybe a groove in the middle of board for trunk. Any ideas?

I wrapped corner boards in towels and poured hot water then put in microwave for several minutes and that did the trick. My only mistake was letting off clamps to move board and bending back, it cracked that one.

I published the photos of team B&B at Fort Clinch at http://cumberlandsound.blogspot.com The kids loved the mosquito and they enjoyed getting to help with the kayak. Allen was very patient and even let my oldest Joshua push him away from the dock. My mother is following the team now, and interested in doing some sort of race with me someday. I have heard from others that other parents/mothers have expressed similar interests and in the next couple of years may see more parent - son/daughter teams.

The other argument is no sanding or anything is required to get any small mistakes out of the fillet before putting the tape down. If you made your mixture thick enough the tape will roll on pretty nice.

Perfection must be applied in perfect weather to look good (low humidity, right temp). Talking to several professional painters/fiberglassers at local boat yard it also sprays very badly, they said it one of the harder paints to spray but rolls nice. Personally it goes on decently with right precoat. I did wind up using Rustoleam Topside paint from Lowes, it goes on nice and is a flat so it hides the imperfections that exist on deck, cheap and easily repaint-able. I also used some on the rudder to try it out and it worked nice. I did primer everything with the two part Interlux primer.

any interior photos?

Occasionally my sail lug will hang up but that just involves raising slightly then lowering again.