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  1. UPDATE: Graham, yes I followed the inner corner tape schedule as specified in the plans. Upon taking a closer look, it's not the gunwale separating from the hull, rather the nesting bulkhead--on the nesting side--separating from the hull. The gunwale and the inner corner tape schedule are holding things together. Given this new information does the repair approach you outlined stay the the same?
  2. Finished Wisp, a SN10 this spring. Sailed in races, took it to the mother ship...all was wonderous at 59N until I noticed the cracks at the nesting bulkhead and the gunwale. It's happening on all 4, so something is amiss--see the photo below. The crack's size is exaggerated in the photo--to show the area if concern I am pressing inward in on the mating surface of the bulkhead, without the applied pressure, the crack is just a hairline. Thoughts on how best to repair this? Thanks. The Crack Launch Day
  3. UPDATE: The mohair roller was a disaster. For the interior I ended up sanding everything flat, then reapplying with the smoothest foam roller I could find. This resulted in a much smother finish. For the exterior, sanded to 220 then followed PAR's advice to squeegee in the first coat, because of timing constraints I rolled and tipped the second coat, then sanded the second coat to 220 and rolled and tipped a 3rd coat, which is pretty smooth. Next the primer and then paint! Here are the rollers I used: http://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-03715C-4-Inch-Refills-Contractor/dp/B002K8PT74/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369626886&sr=8-2&keywords=foam+paint+roller And a photo of the smooth exterior. Thanks to everyone for their help and ideas.
  4. @Alan, yes, hot coating. The shop ranges from high 70s (with the heat on) to mid-60s. 6-12 hours between the three coats. Follow up: knocked it all down with 8 hours of sanding. It was amazing how uneven it was. Today, I'll go back to sanding--you know the Zen approach to sanding, sand till you think it is done, the walk away to come back later and sand some more. I feel like I could keep the sand paper company in business!
  5. In talking with the epoxy guru at the local chandelry today he showed me a piece of marine ply that had been coated with System Three then with both the 990 and the 300v--obviously the 990 LOVES the 330v--but both are VERY well bonded to the Systems Three Epoxy. As a separate factoid, the Systems Three was 2 days old, held at normal Alaska shop temps. Take it for what it's worth, but interesting data points of a real world test.
  6. Follow up-- I talked with the epoxy guru at the local chandelry today, he also thought that the roller type was contributing to the issue. So, I picked up some mohair rollers--the pink and the candy stripe kind. I will sand the exterior to 220, then squeegee in the first coat, the roll the next coats with the new rollers. I'll circle back with the results in a few days. Now off to sand, sand, sand and sand some more. Did I mention sanding? Thanks to everyone who chimed in.
  7. The ply is Okoume, it was smooth as a babe's behind. So knap it is. I'll increase the temps and tip sooner. What is DA?
  8. I finished the third coat of epoxy on the interior of my s10N, and having no previous experience with epoxy, wondered if this texture is ok. If not what, am I doing wrong and how can I avoid the same issue on the outer hull? As always, thanks for your input and guidance.
  9. Thanks for the, as usual, great tips. The folks at international paint don't really have an answer to the question of, what to use as a tie coat/primer. Suggestions? I have ready access to 300v and most of the International Paint line. Thanks.
  10. Seeking the experience of those who have gone before. Anyone have experience with putting Interthane 990 over System Three? If so, did you prime the System Three? With what? Or did you put the 990 right on top of the System Three? Thanks for your experience.
  11. Yes, the mast is complete and I have the sail from B&B.
  12. Fitting the final details before epoxy, prime and painting S10N #993. WooHooo! But as usual I have a few questions. How did you secure the working end of the halyard? A cleat on the foreword bulkhead? The plans show a cam cleat on the mast above the collar for the downhaul. How did you attach the cleat to the mast? I glassed on the gooseneck so the mast section can nest in one another. I'd love to know how you solved these problems. Thanks.
  13. The mothership has a laminated oak tiller that has suffered from minor separation issues issues all of it's 30 year life because the hardware is attached and the tiller is mounted with holes that had no epoxy bushing. In building the S10N I learned about creating epoxy bushings, so I thought AH HA! I can fix the mothership's tiller-separation issues. I I borrowed a set of forstner bits and a drillpressan drilled out the misshapen holes with a generous margin. My plan is to fill the holes thickened epoxy and then drill new holes for the mounting and hardware bolts. As I contemplated my generously oversized holes, I began thinking about the volume of thickened epoxy I will use to fill the holes and realized there would be a whole bunch of heat coming from that much epoxy. The question is: What is the best way to fill the holes with thickened epoxy? One big pour per hole? Multiple pours per hole? All the holes at once? One at a time? Relevant factors: The holes for are 2.5-3 inches deep and 5/8" to 1-1/8 across--see the attached photos. I'm a hair below 60N, it was 8F outside this morning, so I could make the pours outside in the cold to offset the heat from the thickened epoxy. I'm finishing the S10N off in a heated workshop Any guidance the epoxy gurus can provide would be greatly appreciated.
  14. I ordered some parts back in march that have never been shipped, left several messages for them on the their voice mail and never receive a call back. They have always been so good at getting back with answers and parts. Has anyone seen them? Are they ok? Such unusual behavior. Thanks.
  15. Any tips for constructing the aft seats? Thanks.
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