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G Man

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G Man last won the day on February 8 2011

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About G Man

  • Birthday 11/05/1977

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    Dubai, UAE

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  1. I actually shortened my cabin to give the vessel a classic look. Still tons of room below, but i'm in there really only for sleeping and light cooking. Still provides me sitting head room at 5'10". Great little yacht, i've had mine offshore in a pretty good seaway several times and she took it on the chin. Great support from the folks here and at b&b really gives you confidence as the project moves forward. This was my first boat build. Best of luck!
  2. Thanks for all the great info. The meranti seems to work very well in terms of weight, strength, and cost. The big problem with the first mast was the mis-drilled hole. This is where it failed. With the scarf, I plan to wrap glass around the pivot and the heel, just to be sure it is very strong.
  3. Since the Behaven has freestanding masts, and I notice in stronger winds the mast flex helps provide some stability by spilling air, I'm concerned that scarfing near the top and adding glass would reduce some of that flexibility to absorb gusts and control heeling. Any thoughts?
  4. Thanks for the advice. I was worried about a 12:1 because at 36", it would protrude past the tabernackle and become invoved with the pivot area. I that if I use a 12:1 plus glassing as Tom mentioned, it would probably be stronger than the original one piece I used before. I've noticed that with wood working projects in the past that a good scraf joint is often times stronger than the original material. In other words, if a scarf joint is involved, it is the last place a failure will occur.
  5. Well, REALLY pushed Last Mango (Behaven #40) the other day and the mizzen was dismasted. It broke right around the pivot hole, just above the tabernackle. The mast is solid meranti and I found the issue. When originally sighting the hole, I was slighty out and had to oval out a tad to make it fit. Bingo! One of those things that always stuck in the back of my mind. Now granted the winds were gusting 30+kts with 5-8' seas and no reef points, soooo, I sort of got what I had coming. The problem is that the lumber yard ony has 18' pieces and not sure when the 20' will come in. The mast needs to be 18' 9 3/4". The bottom 3' of the mast sits in the tabernackle, so I was wondering if it's better to scarf out the mast with a piece of the old one to achieve the full length, or mount the 18' mast 9 3/4" higher in the tabernackle. I'm leaning toward the scarf method, keeping in mind that with an 8:1, the length of the scarf will be completely contained in the tabernacke, reducing the stress in that area of the mast significantly. Just wanted to get some thoughts from the community on this one.
  6. I used Scott's pictures to rig my Belhaven, except instead of running my main lines back to the cockpit, I cleated them off at the tabernacle. It is a very simple rig once you see a few photos. Many options for setting it up just the way you like.
  7. Love the work on the sprit John, I may have to steal that idea! Small world hey Peter! Even in the 4 years I've lived here the change has been unreal. Kyle, I've been following your progress and it looks and sounds great. I went for the full 60lbs to help increase stability in heavier seas, but as I've found it can become cumbersome. 35lbs would definatley keep the board down and make things run a bit nicer. Good luck and keep up the excellent progress, you'll love the Belhaven.
  8. I've put quite a few hours at sea on #40 since her launch and have only run across a couple minor issues. One is with the keel raising system. My cb has 60lbs of lead in the tip and weighs 100lbs overall. The designed block and tackle system requires a huge amount of strength to lift the keel. My wife can only get it to about half way. I nearly dropped it a couple of times raising it in a seaway. I checked the keel externally for binding, but it moved freely. I removed the trunk cap and checked all the blocks for fouled bearings and clean movement, but again found no issues. It's just really heavy to lift. I switched to the old style keel lift using a hand whinch and steel cable that runs to a d shackle located about 2/3 of the way down the trailing edge of the cb. This works great. The keel is super light to lift and the whinch won't let the keel fall if the handle is released. The cable doesn't hum while at speed and there isn't any seaweed here in the Persian Gulf to snag the cable. I left the internal system still set and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions so that I may go back to it, but for now it's just too heavy! Plus, having that pivot hole makes for a good back-up lifiting point if I go back to the internal system. The other issue is with my sprits chafing my wood mast. Was thinking of a patch of leather on the mast or perhaps wrapping the mast with 1/4" hemp line in this chafe area. Any thoughts? Trying to keep with a traditional looking solution! Overall I couldn't be happier with the boat. She sails beautifully in all types of conditions and when the winds and seas really kick up, she takes it in stride. Very solid and easy to handle boat. I thought about making a dodger, but even in 4-5 seas at 7.5 knots, I hardly take a drop of spray in the cockpit. She is rock solid for a boat of only 19' and really punches through waves. I included some pics from my 2 day trip down to Abu Dhabi and one of the new whinch setup.
  9. I have a Belhaven and it sleeps my wife and I plus 3 kids. No problem. The offset hatch makes getting in and out while masts are folded ok. It's very suprising how much room is in the cabin and cockpit of a Belhaven. I use the swim ladder off the stern to get in and out while she's on trailer. Can't speak for the P22, but I'm sure you would find that equally suitable. Here's a couple pics of the interior and cockpit space. I lowered my cabin top quite a bit off the original plans, but at 5'10" I still have sitting head room on the quarter berth.
  10. Wow, I really like the looks of that. Plus you don't need to stow a really long, dedicated sculling oar. Got me thinking now.
  11. I would like to have a sculling oar on the boat since it would be pretty easy to move it with one, but as Ray said, stowage is an issue.
  12. Yeah, I think a short shaft is the best way to go as well, but I suppose if a long shaft is all you had you could make it work. Thanks for the kind words Ray, and if there is any more info I can provide you (or anyone else interested) about the well, please let me know. Can't wait to see to see your Belhaven! Had mine a couple miles out in the Persian Gulf last week in about 2-3' seas, winds at around 15-20kts and it was solid as a rock! Everytime I take it out I am more and more impressed with the boat. Planning a possible overnight trip this weekend to test out the accomadation.
  13. That is a 15" shaft on the motor. With the 2x4 as the mount it provides 16 3/4" clearance from the top of the 2x4 to the bottom of the hull. I suppose you could modify the size of the wood used for the mount to suit a variety of different shaft lengths. With the 15" shaft, the cavitation plate sits just under the hull and seems to be afforded protection from the ballast keel as the shaft does not protrude too deep. Also with a 10" deckplate, the cooling water discharges into the motor well and doesn't splash all over the cockpit sole, which is a nice feature. If (or I suppose when now) I build another boat I would definatley look to incorporate this type of outboard well again.
  14. Sorry for the delay on the pics! Here is the well that holds my 2-stroke 5hp outboard and it works great. When not in use the motor stows in the port side locker and she is transformed into a pure sailing vessel. Even on short trips or with light winds I just leave it in and it really doesn't intrude on the cockpit. We've had 4 adults and 4 children out for a sail and I left the outboard in and didn't feel it cramped the space. The motor steering is locked and with the prop wash over the rudder, steering authority is great. With the outboard stowed and the bottom plug in, the well also serves as a great live-well for small bait fish or for washing dishes as a few inches of water remains in the well. I'm very pleased with the setup and it's rock solid with the 5hp propulsion in both forward and reverse. The motor is easy to stow and install as well. It's made from spare parts and wood I had floating around the workshop and a 10" deck plate. The well is built in between the floor beams so little modification is done to the original plan. Just two 1x2 cross members, 4 sides of 1/4" marine ply and some epoxy fillets. I also added that large gate hinge to support the middle of the 2x4 motor mount in case of flex or lifting. Maybe overkill though. I built the original hole in the bottom to fit a 3.5hp, but then upgraded to the 5hp so a slight bit of trimming on the cavitation plate was required. The well mod went very fast and I realize I have no construction photos of the well, but as described it's of very simple design and made to fit the plans with minimal infringement on the plans. The 5hp is about as heavy of a motor as I would want to lift in and out though.
  15. Yes, my Belhaven is #40, I have no idea where I got 44 from!
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