ecgossett

Does anyone have photos, diagrams of cabin on EC22??

On mine where the downhaul hole goes sideways I drill one into it from the narrow section, then epoxied the inside well. Putting a figure eight into the original with the rest f the rope going up through the other hole in the narrow area made this work better.

Mine are bolted. Almost everything removable on the boat is bolts versus screws. I was just worried about strength especially on the cheeks. Another place would be in shallow water with the rudder up and more friction/force because blade is in different position.

Is there a good place to get a HDPE blade versus building one for a coresound?

Another question of the evening.. My bronze oarlock snapped off in the mounting place. What are some good stainless steel alternative to replace it? I have looked at Duck Works but they only sell one that folds down. How far forward does everyone put the second rowing position?

During the race I noticed sometimes on big waves (chest height in boat) if they rolled under us sideways or occasionally when twisting from behind the rudder would would pull hard or I would hear stress creaks. Any ideas on how to upgrade/beef up cheek blocks & rudder post for a stronger unit? It bothers me that the most common failure on the different races are rudders.

How hard would it be to add amas to CoreSound17? Bigger sails, more power and speed.

Dropped out early on the Ultra Marathon today. The boat was taking on water in two tanks from additional accident cracks that opened up, and the port fwd tank completely filled when we where getting beat up during the morning of the first day. I used the equivalent of 3M 5200 from Wal-Mart to patch with ducktape over and it held pretty decently.

Boat is in yard, appraiser looked at it, probably over $4000 of damage. Photos are at http://cumberlandsound.blogspot.com Masts may not be to horrible.

We did find one additinional nasty crack two inches above water line in forward PORT seat tank (8 inches long). The wood is splintered inside but it looks like 10ounch cloth on outside saved it there. I think a temporary repair can be done. It's probaly going to be underwater for most of the morning going down the coast with current winds. Underneith on bow we found a area rubbed raw by tow truck trailer and various damage on keel stringer board. I miight ignore and just goat with some epoxy on this as it is serperated from rest of boat by some serious epoxy filler. I got the boat out of the tow lot and over to the St. Mary's Boaryard parked in front of the fiberglass shop. Mabel (best glass person withing 60 miles) is going to do a quote for insurance for paint and everything to be done in couple of weeks. She is hesitant to work with wood as usually it is fiberglass, so I will have to put new coaming in etc. I did talk to Graham today and he told me about a spindrift blowing off a roof going down the highway and being ok besides beat up a little. Wooden boats take shocks that solid glass boats can't. Maybe it's a good weekend for Jenn to take out more life insurance on me. I don't think the race will be to physical so with minor back and neck pains should be fine with a partner to do the heavy lifting.

If you read http://watertribe.or...es=19#post-1754 I have some replacement aluminum for top of mast coming down from Atlanta Thursday.. Not sure if/how bad the rest is bent if it will still sail safely and or can be unbent. Trying to find replacement aluminum for new masts that I could put together fast (insurance from other driver will eventually cover costs hopefully). My leave starts on Thursday, so not sure if coming down early would work, but thanks for the offer. Since I had an email about it yes the rub-rails are treated pine from Lowes, which you can't beat $1.26 for 8' pieces.

Last night after a wonderful afternoon of rowing/sailing I got sideswiped going around a corner by a lady who thought the road was straight. The side of the car is bashed in. Here are the photos of the boat which broke the tie-down strap and pulled out the winch strap. Not sure if it is recoverable or not. Worried about deck damage or other damage I can't see, and I had a short piece of aluminum mast in the forward hole for tieing the masts to. The masts are also bent with one bent over the other. Not sure if the right answer is to ask insurance for replacement cost of boat or which way to go on this. Oh trailer wheel/axel broke off shocks what not on one side. Also engine fuel leaked all over boat because outboard was but in boat after it got picked up, not sure what damage ethanol did to stuff. Are the masts repairable? Should I even try to make the race this weekend? Where do I go/tell insurance etc, any tips for dealing with Progressive?

Does anyone have measurements for second reef-points (need to finish this weekend)?????? Drawing arrived from Carla bu it doesn't show the second reefpoint measurements and I don't want to take some best guesses.

For the new seat I'm going to 3M 5400 the seat top down to the centerboard and install some bolts.

I really think the 30knot gusts the day before might have been a significant factor in failure. For my temporary seat on the side of the center trunk with the mast I'm reinforcing/laminating the board with another 3/4" piece but going length wise instead of across on the grain. I'm also using pine this time as local lumber place doesn't have fir or spruce. Of course the strengths aren't that far different especially with it doubled up. Fr the mast step I'm using the one that came off, sanding it down, reepoxing inside and outside, then reattachment will include thickened and bolts into ss inserts.

thwart failed, bolts held, but wood cracked in multiple places along grain and deformed as the bottom of the mast came up. Temporary thwart with reinforcement is in progress until my dadod mahogany one is complete.

I think besides cheaper weddings (my daughter is 4), kids good do a lot better by living with parents and going to community college for basic classes, then consider an apartment in parents house, later on when married etc. Help parents save interest and pay off house, while keeping cheap rent, which sets up kids for saving money and maybe parents helping in getting house and paying less interest. I can't say much about my wedding my father in law paid for it but cost under 6 grand, which is cheap from what I understand. He had friends who did DJ'ing, another for photos, and another for video. I've heard of other very expensive weddings just to see couple get divorced couple years later.

Here are some photos of the fun demasting today in about 12knots of wind shooting through some pretty fun waves. We where headed east shooting down the river with a north east north wind that was only gusting a little bit. Next thing I know the mast is sideways to STBD off the boat. I started the outboard and had Joe pull down the main sail. Next we headed for the south shore of the marsh, and the wind picked up the mizzen sail and lifted the mast back up. For the next 5 minutes while my 7 year old steered I kept the mast up (it was actually very easy even with wind on the sail) and Joe worked on getting the sail down. We ran up onto shore and took down the aft mast then motored back up the river. One of the problems was when the mast step failed it twisted the autobailer sideways. We where taking in a decent amount of water until we managed to secure it better but still bent and twisted. Contributing Factors: 1) Taking boat into heavy seas briefly day before with 30knot gusts. 2) Adding a cap on the mast bottom that was slightly narrower in places then mast, might have but more force higher on the step. 3) using small screws to hold it in place instead of bolts. 4) one or two joints failed but looks like a combo of that and a small piece of ply that delaminated. Positives 1) The seat did break and crack sideways, but looks like it happened from the end of the mast lifting up. 2) Spot was secured under mast, but survived. 3) some of the epoxy joints held on boot but ripped wood out underneath. 4) ripping away from centerboard trunk didn't put hole in boat. 5) boat was still very stable with mast down hard and sideways.

My understanding from the boat school was things can be a little bit off on a stitch and glue and not be to horrible.

Attempted sailing today in 20-28knots of wind. One reef is not enough, new points will be added shortly. I also do not like how the boom lays when it is reefed, it seems low but any higher the board would have to lay differently.. Maybe I need a different point on mast for attaching s-hook. Does anybody have any CHEAP ideas for keel guards? I damaged my keel and ripped through layers of fiberglass in a couple of areas today. Do not want to pay the prices at certain marine chains for the keel guard plastic.

Windancer Sails in Jacksonville, Tom White! The pattern should be in his computer. All three sails where under $900, but where bought together not individually.

what kind of wood? What dimensions did you use on the wood?

I've followed all the advice and hopefully gotten all the right hardware for my staysail minus the sheet line (West Marine talked my wife into 40ft of 1/2" new england line at $1.13 a foot for it). Does anyone have better info for layout then the boat design drawings?? When I take down sail for the block on end of mizzen boom will I have to disconnect and move rope onto other side or can I use two? I looked at photos online but no closeup photos of system, any photos would be appreciated.

Two things: 1: I currently only have one set of reefpoints on sails due to sailmaker error. This should be fine for the race to be able to reduce to 60% of total working sail or less.. Any thoughts on this, does it meet the rules? 2: Dodger Skip the very expensive sailrite kit. Go to your local canvas shop that does dodgers etc. They probably have some extra 1" or 7/8" stainless bows around that are to big for your boat and wrong size for anyone else's. I got given two stainless bows absolutely free yesterday. Figure out required width and cut out middle section for the required size. Take say 6 inches of middle section cut a straight line down one side and use a vice clamp to bring together tighter. This will fit in between the two sections as an insert (saving $$$ that you would pay sailrite for similar), and use a rivet or two to hold together. Hardware can be ordered from Sailrite or cheaper at duckworks to attach to boat. Just use regular Sunbrella you don't need any expensive Seamark for this. The local shop might have some odd vinyl glass to give you. Buyer beware it does have a lifespan that you can use it in, often several extra sheets that are tinted/smoked or something are sitting in a carton in the storeroom for the past couple of years and they will let them go cheap (expensive if they think you'll cough out full price).

For getting angle right for masts I used a piece of cut off 2.5" aluminum from mast hanging(secured with clamp) from a clamped 2x4 across boat. Having a plastic angle finder from Lowe's and a pencil handy I checked the angle, also the aluminum was over 20" so with a straight ruler next to it and tape measure set the rake. Making the forward mast step was actually the hardest part put used the fiberglass tube hanging from hole in board then moved it around with cardboard until it was right. Cardboard was template for forward step. For the rudder it would be really nice to have a nice C&C cut one from Graham that is a perfect shape. It would be even better if it was prerouted out. On mine I just routed out part of the forward and bottom surface to insert a rope. The layers of fiberglass tape I had wore away after a couple (7 or 8) of groundings. For weight I used a rotary saw and carefully set the depth for not all the way through. Mix epoxy with a bunch of lead shot and pore in, did a massive area. After it was dry used thick filled to fill in, sanded and more filled to fill out small remaining depth. This weight is enough to keep rudder down but not quite enough to keep it tightly forward (cleat and rope for that). All these photos I did two days ago and just tested out today (I did get to go swimming with my kids in boat laughing at me). This photo is router setup with two 2x4's clamped in place to help hold rudder up as rolling, eventually after first past one came off so I could eyeball it as I went over again. To get rope to fit perfect I used a soldering iron to carefully cut away parts of each end to make it lay right. I used epoxy to seal, and after several hours used 5200 fast cure to hold rope in place with clamps pressing down.