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Drew

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Everything posted by Drew

  1. Great idea Jay. I will give it a go. Crazing is one of my concerns since polycarb doesn't like some sealants. Its a bit more flexible than acrylic plexi and less inclined to shatter but no screw holes has got to be a good thing.
  2. Very nice Len. Especially the curve at the stem.
  3. Peter, your portholes look so good. I have chosen to go for non-standard shapes so I am simply covering with 3/16 polycarbonate bedded on sealant and screwed in place. The vertical lines in between the ports are where I added a section because I had cut the cabin sides to the plan before I decided to extend the cabin length. No one will know when I am finished.
  4. Which will be? Welcome to the forum - it is a very friendly, if widely dispersed, group of small yacht enthusiasts building and sailing B&B designs.
  5. Thanks Graham. I will go with that and try to borrow a more accurate digital level.
  6. My garage floor is not level so I have to compensate whenever I use a level. I think my cockpit sole slopes 1.5 to 2 deg aft
  7. This is what progress looks like at my place. Cockpit decking is cut and ready to glue and trim. Mizzen tabernacle has been cut and is ready to assemble and fit. It seems to me that the cockpit sole is about 2 degrees different from the designed water line, is that what others have found? This would have implications for fitting the mizzen tabernacle.
  8. Chick, really enjoying your MC story - thanks. That just might be my next project. Regarding marking out and cutting the wrong line - we've all done it, we just don't publicise it! As a boss of mine once said - measure twice, cut once, and keep your darn fingers outa the saw!
  9. I agree with PAR. The damage looks to be extensive enough to have undermined structural integrity. If not feeling confident about removing the entire case, I would at least treat the rot, soak it with diluted epoxy, then fill with a fibrous filler and put a new piece of 1/4 inch ply over the area and bond that to the old ply with the the paint removed from the bonding area. Be sure to saturate the inside of the new ply with epoxy before attaching. The rotted joint and the crack are concerning and could fail under pressure from the centerboard. My two cents worth.
  10. I thought it might be time to do an update, but first the weather - its pouring rain. Today is Anzac Day here, roughly equivalent to Veterans Day, so being a vet, I joined the thousands in the rain with our best tie, jacket and medals, and marched in the rain to remember those with whom we served. Recovering from that, I took a few pics of the boat and cut some wood, always an uplifting activity. Below is my solution for storage, port and starboard. Runners that I will slide plastic bins into as shown in the second pic. The framework in the foreground is for the work top that will be used for nav (port) and stove (stbd). The next pics show the way I have decided to cut the aft decking and also the motor mount. I bought a long shaft four stroke and I don't need to cut a well into the aft deck. The simple 5 degree wedge works nicely. Please ignore the junk in the background. The next pics will (hopefully) show the view looking forward and the unfinished sliding companionway hatch. I still need to install coamings and drop board slides and finish the bright-work with many coats of clear 2 pack. Once again, please ignore the tools that haven't been put away yet. That is about it for now, but there seems to be light at the end of the tunnel.
  11. My only concern would be instability of the pole on the water if the boat is rocking. This could cause the mast to sway sideways while you are not holding the mast and either cause the pole to come loose or put undue sideways stress on the tabernacle, possibly splitting the tabernacle. If you can avoid any tendency for the mast to sway sideways, the idea could work I would think.
  12. My port side is about 3/16 closer to the centreline than my stbd side at the place you have put a spreader Steve. I decided that it really doesn't matter. It won't affect the boat's handling and is one of those unique things about a hand built boat. I guess I messed up a bit when I joined the transom to the sides. Que sera!
  13. Pete, I am thrilled for you. Please keep posting as you work through the improvements and do your shake-down cruises.
  14. Funny hats are always preferable to skin cancer! You are making great headway there, thanks for the clip.
  15. Thanks Graham. I am about to close in the cockpit seats, so that is helpful. Enjoy the time out with family.
  16. Hi guys, I hope you are enjoying the northern spring. Sailing weather coming on. Can anyone tell me what distance you have used from bulkhead 4 to the H 073 eyestrap on the port side of the cockpit of the CS 20#3? I measure it out from the scale on the plans at 20 inches, but I don't want to set it up only to find I am short.
  17. Dave, it is so interesting to read people's personal preferences and reasons for them. I first liked the raised deck idea when I saw it on the old Hood 20 small yacht and thought that if I owned a smaller boat I would like it to be similar. So when I saw Graham's designs I was immediately attracted. I am expecting it to be a drier boat due to the raised deck as well as more internal room without having to build a tall cuddy cabin. Time will tell of course. I like the look of the Sabra 24. I suspect that my boat will look a little similar in the hull because I have increased the cabin length and shortened the cockpit. Of course, I'm really the only one who has to like the finished boat - "one man's fish is another man's poisson".
  18. The boat looks beautiful, and surprisingly similar to mine, with the blue hull, white uppers and stained rub rail. Mine is not ready for photo shoots yet, but you have inspired me.
  19. Love the cushion design Pete. You have given a lot of thought to ergonomics and convenience.
  20. Howard, I found old sash window weights at a yard where they dump old building material. They worked out very nicely. To melt them I used an iron camp oven pot sitting on top of one of those big burners that you can take camping (it has three concentric rings and two taps). Attached to a 20lb LPG bottle it made short work of melting the lead. I then used welding gloves and face protection to pour the lead into the mold. I hope this helps in some way.
  21. Thanks Pete. My CB is closer to 40 lb. Heavier than the design I guess but I ended up with a slightly larger (heavier) lead tip and the board is laminated from fairly dense Pacific Maple. Your fwd hatch closure is basically what I am doing also, but I will use four elastic tie downs (we call them bungee cords) and I will use two lock pins to add extra security in the event of rough weather. I was originally going to stow my porta-potti in the fwd locker (and still might by putting a large lid on the locker) but am concerned that the chemical smell will be way too close to the bunks. The alternative would be the aft locker port side. Here is a pic of my fwd hatch cover. I'm doing the main companionway sliding hatch the same way, with a slight curve to it. More pics later in my build thread. Thanks for your inside shots, they give me some good ideas.
  22. Pete, or anyone else, do you remember what is the all-up weight of your centreboard?
  23. Encouraging news. I am spending my time on the foredeck now. Fwd hatch coaming is glued in, main tabernacle is glued in and awaiting some glass tape reinforcing, then I can start building the main companionway sliding hatch and rails.
  24. Just a thought on fuels from a pilot's perspective. Mogas is not used in GA and light commercial aircraft because: 1. it is less well regulated for quality and consistency; 2. the aromatics in it can damage and sludge tanks and; 3. because it has a much shorter shelf life than avgas. The assumption is that mogas at service stations normally gets turned over fairly quickly. Ethanol fuels are not used (as in illegal in Australian aviation) because they absorb moisture very quickly. I have seen demonstrations that show that one flight in moist air at 10,000 ft can result in a frightening amount of moisture in the fuel. Sailing being a moist environment (irony) I would think that ethanol mogas is going to absorb a fair amount of moisture the longer it sits in a fuel tank, and that will affect running of the engine and sludge formation in the carby as well as internal corrosion. I wouldn't use ethanol in an outboard motor just in case.
  25. Alex, thanks for the suggestions. Regarding the tabernacle, I have built according to the plans and don't believe I would use a mast that is larger than 83mm. Anything smaller and I will shim the inside of the tabernacle to suit.
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