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Everything posted by Miyot

  1. This is all good info although I have already purchased my plastic fuel tanks. Two 40 gallon tanks. Non returnable non cancel able plastic fuel tanks. I do have enough room for tank expansion and will do a good job installing them. I have read that aluminum corrodes badly with the ethanol fuels and has a life of about 12 yrs. So I choose plastic. All well.
  2. I'm going to agree as well.
  3. Good question. I also wondered what kind of foam and glue to use. I'm going to place some kind of blocks on the bottom so if yrs down the road the foam falls it can't lay directly on the bottom and water can still drain. Hope someone has the right answer.
  4. Thanks Hightech. Where did you get with your glassing this weekend, did your help show up? Your boat looks good, I imagine once you get rolling turnover will come pretty quick. Are you going to make a dolly for the shop or finish the boat on a trailer? I would liked to of had a dolly but my barn floor is dirt and to uneven. I could have blocked her up to finish, but needed to be mobile. I'm sure it would be easier to finish the boat on a short dolly close to the ground. Being square and level would certainly help while finishing the inside of the boat. I am going to level my rig the best I can and move my tools and epoxy jugs inside the boat. With her upright and on the trailer, climbing in and out is a pain. I now have very little room to walk around the boat. I was surprised at how well the Perfection flowed out. The first coat didn't cover but was the best one of the 3 coats. It really did look sprayed. The Interlux bulletin 410 said the lighter colors, especially the whites could be rolled without tipping off. A painter with some skills could do a first rate job with this paint. I really had to move to keep a wet edge and I don't think I would of had time to both roll and tip it myself. Keep the updates coming. Dave
  5. Thanks Oyster. The fairing on the wedge isn't perfect, but with my skills I was happy with it. Dave
  6. I rolled on 3 coats of perfection this weekend. I did not tip and got pretty good results. Interlux bulletin 410 said some of the lighter colors can be rolled on without tipping with a brush and it worked well with the Fighting Lady Yellow. I got a slight orange peel finish but it is acceptable to me. I tried to get the boat spray painted but could get no one to do it in the next month. I have some small defects but I can live with them. I am pressing forward. I will re-install the end of the barn soon so I can heat my work area. I was impressed with the interlux perfection. When I got an early start with the temp right at sixty degrees I didn't have to add any thinner. I got good flow out with very little orange peel. It looked almost sprayed. The roller had to be changed about every half hour and some thinner added as temps got to sixty five. Today I rolled the last coat on and had the most trouble so far. A breeze kicked up and temps were a little higher than when I applied the first coat. I thinned about 3% and continued to get pretty good flow out. I should have added a little more thinner as the job went on but got lazy. Over all I'm happy with the paint job. If anything I could have spent more time on fairing as the finish is a little wavy in places. On to the inside. I feel like I'm getting nothing done. Looking forward to working with wood again. After the paint hardens good I'll re tape the water line on the good paint and add some bottom paint to clean up the water line. I'm glad painting and crap is over for a while.
  7. Fastened on my flat for the outboard on the transom. The flat is 18" wide at the top and 17" at the bottom. I had a 1/8 gap at each end at the top and 3/16 on each end at the bottom. The pad is 17" tall. I cut pegs, 1/8 for the top and 3/16 for the bottom. I fastened the pad with two screws at its center where the pad was flush with the transom. After applying the epoxy (404) I pushed the pegs into it at the corners of the pad. Keeping the sides of the pad off the transom the appropriate distance. Started work on the inside as well. This time I was careful with the epoxy when I glassed on the pad. Making sure I used plenty to avoid any pinholes. Put the peel ply on and wet it out. Worked carefully to make sure I rolled out all the little bubbles along the cords that hold the bi axial together. It looked perfect. Once again patches of pin holes on removal of the peel ply. Each pin hole appeared just on each side of the cords on the bi axial, and only on the outside layer. They don't go through to the inside layer of the bi axial. What a pain. So I put a coat of interprotect on which really shows up the pin holes. Most are so small they are hardly visible or invisible until a coat of paint or epoxy goes on. Then they show up plainly. I filled them with interlux watertite. Which is easier than mixing up microspheres and works well. This time I did a little experiment and used no epoxy to fill weave as I did on the hull. I went straight to the interprotect. I got good coverage on the first coat. A light sanding and another coat of the interprotect and it will be ready for the bottom paint. The upper portion of the pad I will put on two coats of the Primer epoxykote 404 sanding in between, as I did the rest of the hull. I'm getting good coverage without the additional coats of epoxy and getting a nice smooth surface. The peel ply works. If everything goes right I'll have the boat spray painted next weekend. Also the pad is 3/8 thick.
  8. Here we go, another boat builder. I see you broke a sweat in that wooden boat shirt. Enjoy your build.
  9. Hey Oyster, thanks for the help. I happen to have the 404 and will use it on this job. The dimensions I gave are over size. The 16 1/2 width already leaves 1/4 on each side and was measured on the exact same outboard that I ordered. On your advice I will bump it up to 18" at the top and 17" wide at the bottom. This will give me an inch of extra on each side. I'll center the pad carefully and i'll epoxy the holes as you suggest. Thanks Dave
  10. Hightech, talked to my outboard dealer today and he agreed with your guys assessment of the transom. I got measurements for the mounting pad and for the Yamaha 150 4 stroke it is 17' tall by 16 1/2 wide. I'll make mine 17 1/2 wide at the top and 16 1/2 wide at the bottom so it has a slight taper for appearance. I'll put off painting until I get the transom complete. Thanks for the heads up Hightech and thanks Oyster for helping to get it through my thick head I should fix it now. Off to the boat shed.
  11. Talked to Graham to be sure what to do. He said just sand off the paint to the glass and use thickened epoxy to epoxy an appropriately sized flat piece of ply onto the mounting area and fair it in. I'll have to make a trip to the outboard dealer to get some good measurements. Thats what i'll do. Thanks Hightech and Oyster. I'll do a nice job so it looks factory.
  12. Oyster, my transom is 2 inches thick where the motor will hang. After talking to Hightech, I walked down to the barn. One to look at transom and 2 to wipe down the boat to remove any remaining dust. I believe Hightech has a little more curve in his transom than mine. I'm sure a motor will bolt on my transom without any adjustment. I laid a 16 inch board against the area where the engine will bolt. I had about a 1/8" gap or slightly less at both ends of the board. I had about a full 8 inches where the board fit pretty flush. I don't know how wide the engine mount is yet, but I'm not worried about it. I think mine will go on ok. But i'll be paying attention when it comes time.
  13. Wow. Thats the first I've heard of that. I did wonder about the radius of the transom but figured it would bear on both sides of the engine mount evenly. Its really not much of a radius. I'm going to go ahead and paint. When I take the boat for engine installation I'll have them place the engine against the transom and see where it bears and if I have to i'll mark it and fix it then. Without a motor to see the fit, i'm not removing any off the transom. Before I removed any I would sand down to glass and fit and epoxy a shim first. This will need looking into a little.
  14. Almost ready for paint.
  15. Your keel bevel looks real nice. Nice looking build, everything looks clean. Keep makin way.
  16. Were you able to do this singlehandedly? (I'm sure you must have used both hands; I mean did you have any help... )You started at 7 PM, what time did you finish? Yes I glassed the boat single handed. Glassing one side of the bottom took about 5 1/2 hrs. Glassing the one side of the top sides took about 6 1/4 hrs. Help would be nice if you can get it. Where have you been. Lets see some updates.
  17. The engine mounting bracket does have multiple holes in it for up and down adjustment. Set to low and you shave off MPH as well as fuel economy. Set to high and you cavitate. I have read a good starting point is to have the cavitation plate one inch above the keel. I want good performance, but I don't want to cavitate while pitching in a sea. I've been on boats that did this. They were constantly over revving as the prop sucked air as a sea passed under the boat, then the prop would bite again as the stern settled and would shudder as the prop took hold. Obviously set to high. This boat may have run well on flat water with this set up but was no good in a sea. Thanks for the info Russell.
  18. Your scaring me with the transom cut out thing. I talked to 8 or 10 Yamaha dealers and only 2 knew what the transom height should be. I explained to them all that I was going to cut out the transom notch as I had built the boat. They were all perturbed and every one of them told me the boat manufacture should do that. None of them but the 2 could tell me anything about transom height, nor would they take the time for a measurement. Prices by the way were out in left field. The price spread for the exact same engine was over 5000.00. Anyhow one guy took a measurement from notch to keel was 25 1/8". The dealer I bought the motor from seemed to know his stuff and said make it 25" and so I did. I sure hope its right. I used Grahams measurement for the width. I was amazed at how disinterested the dealers were in my business. Two were to busy to talk, took my information and never called me back. None of them had specs and told me specs for the transom cutout could only be obtained from the boat manufacturer. After I explained I had built the boat. Perhaps things are different at the coast where lots of engines are sold. Go figure.
  19. Hey Russell. I'd love to go to the messabout, its just to far. About 10 hrs or so. If my boat was finished I would think about it. As for pics of turnover, I don't have any. I did it all by myself as the family were at a soccer game. I used six half ton chain hoists with a snatch block on each one. I had 2 chain hoists for my last build. Bought 2 more and borrowed 2. I bought 1/2 inch low stretch double braid line from Northern Tool, 8000 lb. I ran the lines around the boat and through the snatch blocks which were hooked to the chain hoists. So I had 3 lines around the boat. So when I lifted the boat the lines were free to rotate in the snatch blocks. I just rotated the boat around. However I didn't have the height I needed because I lost 1 1/2 feet due to the chain hoist and snatch block hooked together. So I rotated her until the side of the bow flair touched the ground, put some carpet under it and drug it to one side which was a little lower as my ground slopes in the barn. Cranked a little and drug her again. It took three little drags and lifts until she was vertical on her side. Aft was off the ground and the bow flair resting on the ground. I had a line around her and a full round turn around a beam in the barn so she wouldn't get away from me as she went over. I put a little slack in the control line and gave her a shove. Over she went, coming tight on the control line. I held on tight, untied the line and she wanted to go and I payed it out slow and over she went. Without the full round turn around the beam she would have gotten away from me. My bottom paint was still a little soft and it rubbed off in a couple of spots so I'll touch them up nice. There she was hanging about six inches off the ground at the bow and a foot or so aft. I blocked her up, lowered the snatch blocks and got another bite with all 3 lines. Shortening the lines I used a bowline. When I lifted her high enough for the trailer I put cribbing underneath for safety as I raised her. Turn over took about 15 min. Some planning had to be done so the corners of the boat didn't contact the snatch blocks as she went around. Worked well.
  20. Turnover. Pics still won't upload. About 1 in twenty trys
  21. Having trouble uploading pics, heres another try. Help Frank. My pics won't upload. I get a bar saying Error No file selected for upload. The bar doesn't appear until the pic completes the upload
  22. [Turnover. It went well and was uneventful, thank goodness. Did some trailer adjustment and I'll finish that hopefully tomorrow. The shear line has a little hump in it but will shape up nice when I plane the shear clamp down to its final shape.
  23. The bottom planks continue to the stem the same way as they do aft, to the top of the chine batten. A 1/2 inch rebate is then cut in the bottom planking so the side planking ends up flush with the bottom planking just aft of the stem. I started my rebate about 8 or 9 inches aft of the stem. This way your chine flat makes a smooth transition and just disappears just aft of the stem. I believe it is explained in your planking instruction page. I mentioned to you a small rebate plane would be nice to have. Remember to keep any fastenings near the stem low (towards the bottom of the boat) so they won't interfere with cutting the 1/2 inch rebate. Start by drawing a line parallel with the top of the bottom planking 1/2 inch below the top of the bottom planks. Start where your chine flat ends and extend the line to the very tip of the stem. Then use a back saw or Japanese saw to cut a shallow kerf along the line you drew. Then pare off a shaving with a chisel. That way your rebate plane will have a shoulder to ride against as you cut your rebate. Your rebate will taper down to nothing at the stem, cutting completely through your bottom planks at the stem exposing the stem itself. Your side planking will then glue to the side of the chine flat, continuing down the rebate and coming flush with the bottom planking near the stem. Your rebate starts out the full thickness of the bottom planks and gradually gets deeper as you approach the stem.
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