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Miyot

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Everything posted by Miyot

  1. My basement is on hold. I have no desire to do anything but work on the boat. I plan to finish the basement after turnover. I bought that little spoke shave through the mail, thinking it was bigger than it is. It is really for fine detail work, taking a very thin shaving. I took a metal file and opened its mouth a little so a bigger shaving could pass through. It clogged up a good bit, especially on the Doug Fir. Now I use the bigger Stanley spoke shave to quickly remove material, and finish with the little Lie Neilson. Its a quality little tool and it gets a lot of use. I have been seriously thinking about keeping the boat a center console, and putting a T Top on it and forgetting about a cabin. It would be a serious fishing platform. I would like to take some trips on the Intra coastal with my daughters and spend a week or so living on the boat, I don't think a forward cabin on the Ocracoke would do what I really want. So I have decided to build Grahams new Outer Banks 24. Why have one when two is better. Now this will be a ways down the road, but when I get some extra cash I think I'll order the plans. Meanwhile I'll do some serious fishing. And before my daughters graduate college and disappear I'll build the OB and take a summer on the Intra-coastal with them.
  2. Chine installation. My little Lie Neilson spokeshave has been a great tool.
  3. Finished planking the bottom. Running a bevel along the chine batten on the planking so the chine will have a good gluing surface to the bottom. I have begun fitting the side stringers, this is the most fun part of the build for me. Getting the shape of the topsides right. This will make it or break it. I will have very little fairing to do to the bottom, some along the keel and a few spots up near the stem at the bow. Here are some progress pics. You can see the bevel on the top photo to the right.
  4. Looking really good. Is the color Fighting Lady Yellow? That is the color I have chosen as well. Looks like you have a nice gloss.
  5. Its really hard to see the boat upside down and really see her. Photos are even worse. I thought she looked long and narrow upside down in the photos. Now doesn't that look nice right side up. A good looking boat. Good Job.
  6. Perhaps he will become a professional boat builder. Tarbaby, I'm following your build, those gunnels are beautiful. Wish I had those skills.
  7. Getting close to finishing the bottom, then on to the chines. Lance, I can't believe you sold that boat. Perhaps you will become a professional boat builder.
  8. I checked out boattest.com on the E-Tec. Looks pretty good. I read quite a few posts on another site about the E-Tec. Mostly positive and most owners loved them and would buy another. A lot of comments on good power. Post some pics of your progress. I am trying to finish the bottom planking this weekend. Ordered my boat trailer, it may be done by early May.
  9. Wouldn't it be nice if we could learn from an experienced boat builder. Even then we would continue to make mistakes. Problem is we are human. I have suffered over a problem, sometimes for days. Making a part that doesn't fit, doing it again and it still doesn't work. Then some grumpy old wood worker comes along and says "try this". It was so easy, NOW WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT. That's boat building. FUN
  10. I have finally snapped, my oldest daughter came home from college for spring break. I'm holding them prisoner at drill point. On a more serious note, I've been using the raptor staples. Now I don't know how they will affect the finish. But so far I have found them superior to using screws for attaching the outer planking. I use a few screws and blocks for starting and alignment. The rest is done with staples. These forward planks are under considerable tension when you bend them in place. I fasten the plank at the keel and bend it down to meet the chine. Working from the top down, stapling in rows about 3 inches square More screws and blocks are needed where the tension of bending the plank can cause it to lift off the inner plank in some spots. Care must be taken and close attention to the job is necessary. However, if you are careful, you can bring your full weight onto the stapler by getting the right body position on top of the boat. One leg over the keel to keep from falling off and your weight onto the stapler. It aint easy. But it works. I have nearly fallen off several times. I have several Kreg clamps with a ten inch reach. You can work them in most places on the smaller planks to clamp and then staple. DO NOT OVER CLAMP. It doesn't take much pressure to get the job done. The inner planking is screwed to the structural members with silicon bronze screws and they are left in. I intend to use staples for the outer side planking as well, as far forward as they continue to work. YOU MUST NOT HAVE VOIDS! I am impressed with the staples and think I am getting a better join than I would with screws and blocks. They hold well, but I use a lot of them. They are hard on sand paper until you get the most of them sanded off.
  11. I have used Interlux Brightside on several boats. I thought it was touchy, and needed good weather conditions for good application. Getting the right mix of brushing thinner was tough for me and it varied considerably with temp and humidity. However I did manage to get good results. Several people asked who painted my Haven 12.5. The gloss was real good, and impressed those who had done a little painting. I tried rolling it on and could not get it right. Not that it can't be done, I just have little experience. I brushed it on a 31 foot sportfishing boat and had excellent results, the weather was with me. When I did my 16ft Haven I had more problems, especially keeping a wet edge. But it was mid summer and hot. Still my results were pretty good. I plan on painting my Ocracoke with Interluxe's Perfection 2 part polyurethane. Another learning experience. I got pretty good coverage using Brightside with 2 coats, 3 would definitely have been better. In a yr or two i'll give it the 3rd coat. My favorite interlux paint was Toplac. You could put on a second coat without sanding if you stayed on their time schedule. Beautiful results. They discontinued it I think, or at least the color I was using. I used their Pre-Kote primer. Anyhow I like their Brightside paint. With some skill you can get excellent results.
  12. http://www.topix.com/forum/city/paris-tx/T1E45O8AB7ARAGDEH A lot of bad comments on the ETech. I have found bad comments on others as well
  13. I have been considering Yamaha 150 or 200 4 stroke. I have been leaning toward the 150. I have also thought about the Merc 150. I've owned both brands and liked them both. I may not need 120 gal of fuel, perhaps 80 will give me the range I need. 2 or 3 trips offshore per yr is probably as much as I'll do. I'll just have to do some research and figure it out. Two belly tanks, similar to NZ Lances boat, with my fuel fills on the port side deck is what I have in mind. Using the aft tank just for offshore trips, similar to your idea. Thanks for the nice comment and post here anytime, I really enjoy it. Dave
  14. I would like to carry at least 100-120 gallons. I need to look into fuel consumption on the engines I am considering. It is a light boat for her size. I won't do it often, but will run her 35-40 miles offshore when the weather looks good. I have looked at Moeller plastic tanks. They have a new nylon liner that is supposed to keep the fuel smell from coming through the plastic. I have taken some preliminary measurements. There are some new regs, something about the vents running through some kind of trap. Moeller, I think, has it on their site. I will get serious about tanks after turnover. What are your thoughts one the subject. I'm open to suggestions. This has been on my mind some lately. Many details to work out as I approach turnover. Although I did install an aux. tank on a Grady white yrs ago. And I replaced a leaking diesel tank made of wood that was fiberglass lined once. There are many things on this build that are new to me. I have glassed a few small decks, but never anything on this scale. I am looking for info as I go. I want to get it right the first time. Like everyone else, by the time I about complete what I am working on, I'm just getting the hang of it.
  15. Wow, good progress, I'm looking forward to seeing your build. Very interesting. I looked back through your posts and couldn't find whether you were building the 20 or 24. I thought it was the 24 footer?
  16. I have the carpenter bee thing as well. I'm have been to lazy to climb up and use the pesticide. I will this summer as my sail boat is kept in the shed. I have shot many with a BB gun, that is tough let me tell you. They like to buzz you when you are working in their territory. Some tack metal window screen to their rafters. They can't get through the metal. Its a lot of work, but permanent.
  17. Thanks Frank, its working again. Dave
  18. Lets try again. Now you can see my helper. I don't know if you can see the staples in the photo, but you can see my fairing blocks, and the transom where the planks over lap. I'm back baby. Thanks Frank. Dave Marsh
  19. I to have gotten the script message. My upload seems to finish, and then just disappears. And the page just quits. I can scroll up and down, but can't upload again until I x off the page. When I return I can try again, but it continues to just disappear. Some times the page just locks up and I have to wait for the message that tells me the page is not responding. If I reload the page, the same thing happens again.
  20. Hey Lance, looks like our Drum, at least your fishing. I'm going to do some fishing when our weather breaks. Supposed to be in the teens at night this week. We aren't having much of a spring. Hopefully things will warm up soon.
  21. I used some fencing wire i had in the barn. I drove an angle iron stake in one end of the barn, drilled a hole thru the wall and ran the wire to a come along chained to a tree. Worked pretty good. Enjoy your build.
  22. Russell, I am unable to post pics. The planking sections I am talking about are the flat bottom sections. They become more convex as they approach the bow. I am going to use the staples as much as I can. An air stapler would be easier. However, the difficulty is not pulling the lever to work the stapler. It is getting your body weight onto the stapler to hold the planking layer together. You can't get a clamp into the large bottom planks, so you must use your body weight. I am using the heel of my hand on the forward adjustment screw of the stapler to bring my full body weight onto the front of the stapler. I resorted to a pad in between my hand and the stapler to protect my hand. It still isn't easy. You are on a slope, and just as your body weight comes onto the stapler it may rock to one side and crease or dent your plank a little. If you are square and careful you can avoid this. Also some staples go in flush and others remain slightly proud, no matter how carefully you adjust the stapler. So when you sand them off, some of the tops of the staples remain and others sand off nicely. But, and here is an unanswered question. Many small dimples are left behind. Sanding for fairing will take care of many of these. Will your epoxy coats, prior to glassing fill the remainder. Or will you have to fill some of these with a thickened epoxy. Will some of these print through, they are quite small, but there will be many. I don't have answers yet. AND BE WARNED, YOUR PLANKS MUST NOT HAVE VOIDS IN THEM. So far mine do not. And when the time comes I will switch to screws. The forward bow flair will need to be screwed. I found at least for me that a pilot hole needs to be drilled for your screws and blocks. I am using a tapered drill bit with a stop collar. Measured to the appropriate length for the thickness of the block you will be using. The hole is small where it drills into the inner plank ( which helps to avoid splintering when the screw penetrates the inner plank). It is a larger hole where the screw penetrates the outer plank ( so the threads don't bite much and allows the planks to be drawn together nicely). The hole in the washer block is large enough the threads don't bite at all but tight enough the screw won't fall out. And the blocks are covered with packing tape. Sounds like a lot, but its not. I made up a bag of hundreds. I also made up some with two screws per block. These can be used to draw the seams flush in the inner planks till the epoxy sets, before planking the outer layer. The seams are nice at the stringers, keel, etc. But may be slightly off in between these. A couple of these blocks over the seams with a screw at each end pull the seam nice and flush until the epoxy sets. I am still unable to upload pictures, or you could see what I am talking about. The staples I'm using for planking are 9/16
  23. So far I have used staples to fasten the outer layer of planking. They have worked excellent, even on the slightly convex areas approaching the bow. I put in a lot, not knowing just what their spacing should be for maintaining good contact. I use full body weight on the stapler, its hard on the hand and it is not easy. You will break a sweat. I made up a few blocks for keeping the plank seams fair on the inner layer. Can't upload pictures.
  24. The wood boat on the cradle (center photo) is a beauty. Now thats a boat
  25. Bottom planking underway. Drilling a hole in the planking skin, for me, is like jumping out of a plane with a parachute. I know its OK, but I can hardly bring myself to do it.
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