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Miyot

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Everything posted by Miyot

  1. Sanding. Lots of fun. Starting to think about turning her over. I'm making a plan. She fills the barn. Couple of finished planking pics coming soon.
  2. HighTech I sent you a PM
  3. I can tell by your shop this is not your first boat. Your progress is remarkable and the boat looks excellent. Keep updates coming.
  4. Yes, the side planking is just glued to the end grain of the chine. I considered a stringer here as well, but went with the design. This joint will get 3 layers of glass on the outside. Tape and two overlaps of the bottom and side glass. Also the inside at this joint will get a good fillet of resin and cabosil and a layer of glass as well. This design eliminates the big chine batten, which would take a lot of work planing. Then an external spray rail would have to be added. I'm not going to add a spray rail as I think the reverse chine looks better than an external rail. Some add the spray rail even with the built in chine. I'm not. I've seen some other big builders use this type of design design as well. I think this saves a lot of building time and looks better as well.
  5. Ah! The epoxyclips, also known as the poxyclips. I think the correct spelling is the Apocalypse. It is the end of the world. Epoxyclips is my attempt at humor, or the end of planking.
  6. As you can see in the photo I am truly concerned about the epoxyclips. In retrospect, its just the end of planking, not the end of the world. So I'm feeling better. I sure am glad planking is at an end. The staples have worked really well through the entire planking process. Even the extreme flare in the bow was done with the staples. I feel they were superior to using screws, at least with this thickness of planks and amount of flare in this boat. I am looking forward to doing anything other than planking, even sanding. Just glad she is planked.
  7. My bottom is two layers. The first layer goes on and is beveled (say port side). Then the other side of the bottom (starboard side) is fit and glued and it is beveled. Then the second layer of planking goes on, first port side glued and beveled then starboard, glued and beveled. Each layer has to be alternated for maximum strength along the joint. Which is actually a little scarf joint. Just fit your plank and draw a line along the apex of the keel onto the plank. Cut close to the line but leave the line and just cut it square. Now after gluing this plank in position you are just planing off to the bevel on the keel or the underlying plank.
  8. HighTech, I was on vacation. A week at the beach with the family. Your progress is really quick for as much time as you have for it. You have a boat now. Looking good. I hope to finish planking this week. Will get some pics up soon.
  9. Sorry, I've been on vacation. A jack plane is all you need here. A power planer would be dangerous, to much chance of digging to deep. These bevels can be cut quickly with the jack plane. The first 8 ft. panel takes less than 15 min. The opposite bevel on the keel is your guide. Its one of the easiest parts of the build. Your plane has to be sharp and the ply dulls it quickly. I can do an 8ft bevel in under 10 min. Finish up with a small spoke shave if you have to. Just let the plane ride on the keel bevel. You know your close to finished when you start touching the keel. All the panels are done this way. The bevels are cut after the panel is glued in place. Simple and quick
  10. I'm going with the cloth top T Top and a fixed back leaning post. No one manufactures these close enough to me so I had to order everything. I went with Birdsall marine. I sent them my drawings for the center console and they did a mock up for me and have proposed some changes to the console that I went with. The T Top folds down which I had to have to get the boat in the barn. The cushions for the leaning post and console will match with the paint color of the boat. I also went with the phone booth enclosure for the T Top. Everything is pretty much custom. The leaning post will have 4 rod holders with a wraparound grab rail and cup holders. It also has a storage tray under the seat. The T Top and Leaning post are aluminum. Here is a pic of the console mock up.
  11. Yes,I would plank the bottom before installing the side stringers again. It made the bottom much easier to access.
  12. This is a little off subject and a ways off for you but I have a little planking trick for you. I found when putting on the outer layer of planking that sometimes my outer plank would not lay down all the way where it butts up to the last plank on the outer layer. Small amounts of cured epoxy can block you next plank from laying down along the seam. When the epoxy is curing some would weep out along where the next seam will be. Even though I cleaned up well, some would inevitably seep out. Now I would sand this joint before laying the next outer plank, but this is a lot of work and cured epoxy in the bottom of the seam is hard to sand at the bottom of the 90 corner. What I did was take my little rebate plane and plane a small champher along the inside lower edge of the next outer plank. This only takes a minute, but lets the plank lay down fully so it is flush with the previous plank. It also leaves a small channel for the epoxy to flow into and allows it to flow up or down this channel helping to fill any gap between the planks. If you don't understand what I'm trying to explain now, you will get it during planking. It works so well that I now automatically champher the edge with out even thinking about it.
  13. Which compartments are your fuel tanks in. Did you use the aft most compartment, just forward of the aft bulkhead. Or did you put a tank in the one just forward of the console. Wondering just where I should put mine.
  14. Wow, very nice. Post some performance numbers when you can. How much fuel will she carry and where are your tanks. Excellent paint job.
  15. Get some pics when you can. My leaning post and T Top are being constructed. I have drawn up a console and have ordered cushions for the front seat which is part of the console. They will match the leaning post seat which has a fixed back. The T Top will have Rupp outriggers installed as well. I am moving along. I will be looking into an engine in August.
  16. Your info is certainly helpful to me as a first boat builder. One comment on removing screws: I use an impact driver a lot and it seems to me that I'm more successful using it to remove screws than with regular power drivers or manual drivers without cam-out or breaking the screw. The Makita impact driver I use, BTD142, 18v (I think I'm right about this) has a variable impact force feature with which a gentle touch on the trigger produces a gentle tap-tap on the screw. I think this is why it works so well. However, it will definitely break the screw if you're not careful and the screw is really stuck. Mind, I'm talking drywall screws here, have never used bronze. I'm using an impact driver as well. I carefully run the screws in until it raps once or twice. I then check the tightness of each screw by hand. I can't use the impact driver when screwing into edge grain plywood. Like when fastening the planks to the chine. One little mistake and it spins the screw, so I do all my edge grain ply by hand. I used a Brace on my last build, driving every screw in the boat with it. I think they are the best there is for driving screws. And they are really good a removing a stuck one as well. Just more work using them. Bronze screws are very soft. Removing them and using them over again tends to deform the head, eventually making cam-out more likely. I prefer the Frearson head screws, but also use the slotted.
  17. Well they are never thrown away. And they are expensive. I am leaving them in the boat in certain spots.
  18. Why use bronze screws if you are removing them? Why not a cheap drywall screw? Well I have the bronze screws, which I had planned to just leave in the boat. Now I have been removing the majority because if a staple hits one while fastening the outer layer, it does not go in all the way and breaks at least one leg of the staple. This is not really a problem. Just drive another staple. However if you break off a drywall screw, it must be removed. Extra work. If I break off a bronze screw, I don't even flinch. I just leave it in and move on. I will occasionally cam-out a bronze screw trying to remove it. If its in the way of fairing, it is soft enough to use a dremel with a stone and easily grind it down so you can fair your piece. I use a lot of drywall screws for building molds, forms or whatever. I will never put one in a boat again. I have a collection of bronze screws left over from my last build. I bought 3 boxes of the 3/4" for about 35 dollars. Enough to do this boat with the amount I leave in. I have also quit using stainless as much as possible, though I do use them when they are called for. I see to many of them rust. Some out of the same box. Some will be fine and others will cause rust stains down the side of the boat. Oh well I could have said I just like the bronze.
  19. Planking. I have reached the flare at the bow and the staples continue to work well. Each plank now has to be bent into place and scribed to fit, but it isn't to difficult. Plank width is now down to 8" so is a bit slower. I have been using silicon bronze screws to fasten the inner layer. I have been removing all the screws but the ones in the sheer clamp and the stringer directly below it. The epoxy doesn't seem to glue the screws in if they are drilled for after the plank is clamped in place. The few that are drilled prior to clamping will get some squeeze out in the hole and they become permanent. The ones that screw into the chine should come out so there will be no problems rounding over for glassing. I usually drill one hole into the chine for positioning and holding the plank in place while clamping and positioning. If you clean this hole of epoxy before fastening, the screw will usually come out. However I usually back this one out after about 6 hrs and replace it to assure I can remove it. I am using 3/4 inch screws. They hold really well, and if they are stuck they can be left in. No reason to use screws any longer than 3/4, and I feel you run the risk of splitting a stringer using the longer screws as some builders do. Also I am only using two screws per stringer on the 8" planks. Getting good squeeze out. This info isn't worth much unless your building this boat, but someone may use it sometime.
  20. Miyot

    Help glassing

    Thanks for spending the time to help me out. Planking every day. Trying to move ahead. Dave
  21. Miyot

    Help glassing

    I have a piece of waste ply that I glassed . I won't start glassing the hull for about three weeks or a month. I want the get this glass work straight before I start. I'll make up another sample and see if I can get a good picture. My first sample has 2 coats of the 407 on it now. I didn't know if it should be a thick or runny coat. Or how many coats to get a nice sand-able layer. And wouldn't this all have to be done with the 6 oz as well.
  22. Miyot

    Help glassing

    Oyster, I have West's 407 fairing filler. When I removed the peel ply there was really no weave to fill. Just left a print of the peel ply, I could not feel the weave. The little ropes that tie the glass together could not be felt. I just really wanted to put another layer on to prevent print through later, and sand to a smooth feel. I didn't want to spend the extra or spend the time on another layer of 6 oz cloth. The 17 oz bi ax I got is nice quality and there was no weave left to fill. I just worried about the little ropes that tie it together printing through. I think all I really need is a thin layer I can easily sand to smooth things nicely with out hitting the ropes. I mixed up some resin and the 407 and added a small amount of the cabosil because I had read you should, somewhere. Any how my mix was a little thick I think. Can I just roll on a thin layer of the 407. I was afraid if I sanded without another layer I would hit the little ropes. I have been advised to add a layer of 6 oz cloth by several more experienced builders. I'd do it if I had to. I don't want to mess up now. The planking is turning out really good, I think. I sanded off the staples and did a light fairing with the orbital sander and it is really sweet. If you hold up my test panel to all angles, it appears to be very smooth. If you run a fingernail over the panel, you can't feel the ropes. However you can see them and I worried they would print through. My gut feeling is a thin, even coat of the 407 allowing me a light sanding would be good. Or would the 410 microlight be better. I probably have enough of the 407 to do the hull I still have about 9 ft of the bow to plank on both sides. I was going to make up some more test panels before I actually start glassing. Here is where my inexperience is really showing. I think the glass is excellent quality, it virtually disappeared except for the little ropes. I felt the peel ply worked really well and I have enough to do the hull. There was absolutely no weave to fill and the ropes that tie it together could not be felt. But the ropes stand out visually and I am worried about print through. Thanks for the advice on the cabosil, I won't use it. I appreciate your advice. Dave
  23. Miyot

    Help glassing

    I'm using 1700 bi axial glass. I made up a test panel yesterday and put a layer of glass on and wet it out and rolled out the air. Then laid on a sheet of peel ply, wet it out a little and rolled it. I was pleased with the glass quality. Not ropey or course. Anyhow I peeled the peel ply off today. Sweet. I mixed up some resin with micro balloons and a little cabosil. I made the mixture about like thin pudding and rolled it on and tipped it off. I will do another coat later this evening after it tacks a little. My main question is what is the right or best method for filling the weave? Straight resin for first coat? What mixture do you like or use and how thick should it be. Thanks
  24. I read on another site that with the proper use of the peel ply and adding a little more resin during wet out ( of both the 1700 and peel ply) you could eliminate the filling of the weave step and the peel ply would consolidate the lay up and also remove excess resin. Leaving you with a finished surface. All that would be needed would be a final sanding of small defects and the surface would then be ready for high build primer. Thus eliminating all of the sanding that comes after filling the weave of the traditional method. The other method was to use the extra layer of finish cloth as you have suggested. There was a little debate over this. Both parties of the debate seemed to be very knowledgeable on the subject.
  25. Hightech, I see your point about the amount of seam fairing. I thought it would be easier to hide or fair seams running fore and aft,one along each side of the keel and at each chine. My plan was to glass 1/2 of the bottom in one continuous operation. First laying the glass and stapling in place. Wetting out the fabric in sections maintaining a wet edge and laying on the peel ply as I go. Perhaps this is not doable. I have seen your method done on a you tube video. I just worried about a ripple effect caused by the seams running athwart ships. I had also planned to tape the center line and chines.
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