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Everything posted by Miyot

  1. Hey Russell. I'm using Interlux's Interprotect 2000e. Its not cheap, but you can add coats of the interprotect without sanding for up to six months. I am also using it for my primer and weave fill for all my glass work. It won't fill the weave right unless you use the peel ply. After removing the peel ply (which I did not use in the bilge areas) I go straight to the Interprotect without sanding except for the the overlap of glass areas and fixing little problem spots. I used the Interprotect on my splash well and console. Then I'll go straight to Interlux's Perfection, without any additional primer. The Interprotect comes in white and grey. I like the no sanding part. However, after filling the glass weave with 2 or 3 coats of the Interprotect I sand smooth with 220 before applying the Perfection. In the bilge I did not fill the weave of the glass. I just applied one coat of the Interprotect. I mixed up a batch of Interprotect I thought would do a section of the bilge I was working on. Any product left over I would recoat an area of the bilge that already had a coat on it or I thought could use another coat.
  2. Moving forward. Installed fuel filter, 10 micron water separator with see through bowl with drain so I can remove water.
  3. Some wiring and some peel ply. The weather has put off my engine install until next week. Going to glass the console this week and finish the motor splash well.
  4. There is quite an optical illusion going on in this photo. Check out the upper right hand corner of this photo, where the chine is. Normal view, then the enlarged view. Weird wild stuff. Can you see it? In the post above. It would appear there is no chine on what would be the port side. But it is there.
  5. Installed hydraulics for trim tabs and wired switch for bilge pump, everything working. I will install, glass and paint the motor splash well this week. Engine install coming next Saturday. I'm on a push to finish the boat. After engine install, I'll glass the inside of the boat. Including the console and decks. Then begin work on the gunwales. They will be varnished Mahogany, stem to stern. Here are some progress pics. I had planned on putting the batteries in the console. It would have been a long run with heavy wire, so I opted to put them at the transom. One port and one starboard. I'm wondering where the scuppers will be at. I think with the 150 4 stroke I'll be ok. If not I can always opt to move the batteries to the console. I worked out a wiring run just in case.
  6. Fishman, Graham had a console drawn on my plans. I scaled the measurements off the plans, added a front seat and sloped the dash. Pretty good fit. I ordered my leaning post from Birdsall marine. They have many designs and I ordered one to fit my boat. They also made me a custom T Top which folds to fit in my barn. I sent them a drawing of my console, they built a mock up of it and built the T Top to fit it. Shipping was expensive as I live far from the coast. It had to be shipped upright as it is welded and sized to the console. I consider the T Top a necessity. I also got a wrap around wind screen that encloses the console. Some call them a phone booth. Wind and weather protection. The console will be the same color as the hull. They also made me matching cushions for the forward seat and leaning post. Very nice and expensive. You can get cheaper T Tops which are shipped in a box and you assemble them and can be adjusted to fit most consoles. Check out Stryker T Tops, also Jamestown distributors carries some that can be shipped. Can't remember the names of them. Some are aluminum and some stainless steel.
  7. A little progress. The console is 5/8 thick. I ran low on the 1/2 ply, so laminated a layer of 3/8 and 1/4. Nice and beefy. I have hatches for the console, but left the front seat back unglued for access to wire and run cables. I believe i'll glue the lower half after wiring is complete and just screw on the top of the seat back on so I can really get in the console later for any work. After I install the hatches, i'll see how easy access is to everything. If it is all accessible thru the hatches i'll glue up the upper section of the seat back. Trying to get ready for engine install. Coming in next week or two.
  8. I cleaned up underneath as I went. It was a pain, but a huge time saver in the long run. Some places could not be reached, especially the bow area. I will have plenty of sanding to do up forward. I don't know how many times I crawled under, just glad that is over. Now I have to constantly climb into the boat. Still more favorable than crawling under. I have to admit, dragging myself under, getting resin in my hair, crawling and contorting myself into ridiculous positions. Scraping and wiping nasty goo was to much fun.
  9. That is a not a good idea. At least in most cases. Once it starts to kick, it no longer has the penetrating qualities. So it is not good if you are wetting out. It can also make the new batch kick faster. You could get a lump or a really thick spot. Not allowing the parts to come together completely. I would not do it. If you get caught at the wrong time, you could end up having to tear it apart and re do. Epoxy is expensive, but I would avoid doing that.
  10. Initial console construction.
  11. I've found that some sanding belts will often leave some deeper scratches here and there. I have used them for long boarding. I no longer do so.
  12. Hurt my knee back in December and couldn't climb in the boat for two weeks. It still isn't right but I'm back on the boat. I just don't have the energy to put the hrs in I did before but I'm still making progress. I have nearly completed my console. I'll get the engine installed, hopefully in early March. Still shooting for a May or June launching. Still a long ways to go. I'll get some pics up of the console construction. We have had a lot of bitter cold weather. This has slowed progress as well. The coldest days the barn was just to cold for epoxy work. Looks like our weather will improve some shortly. Have you made any progress. Post some pics when you can. Spring is coming hard and fast. If I could get really motivated the boat would finish up before you know it. Can't wait.
  13. I don't feel right cutting holes in the boat either, just have to do it.
  14. All, those weenies. Thats what I thought.
  15. Who are weenies, and why do they prefer light beer?
  16. The metal point on the compass points to the stern and the pencil end points to the bow. As you scribe down the plank, the compass must remain perfectly level at all times, parallel to the keel. You are simply transferring a point on the already fit planks edge, to the plank you are going to fit. The pieces you cut off of the plank you are fitting will be crescent shaped. You will get better at it as you go.
  17. Fishman. Cut out the right sized plank and just clamp it in next to the one already fastened. Get it in close but not touching the plank already fastened. It must be in as though ready to fasten, other than the gap to leave room for the compass point. One or two long clamps will do. Then just run a compass down the gap. Running the steel point along the edge of the already fastened plank and making a pencil line on the plank to be fit. MAKE SURE YOU COMPASS REMAINS PARALLEL TO THE KEEL THE ENTIRE WAY DOWN. Then cut along this line. Mark the plank to be fit with some marks on the already fastened plank aligning the two so the plank to be fit can be put back in the same spot. Then fit them up and see how it looks. A little touch up may be needed with the spoke shave. This has to be more precise as you reach the flare in the bow. Get used to it, it has to be done. Some make a tool that can be slid down the already fastened plank and marks the to be fastened plank. I just used the compass. You may want to file your compass point so it doesn't catch on the end grain of the plank your sliding it down. I notched mine a little and messed with it until it worked nicely. Open your compass only far enough to bridge the gap and make a mark on the plank your fitting. Work on it and you will get it.
  18. Fuel fill should be on the gunnel. The idea being if there is a spill during filling, it won't end up on the deck or in the boat. Fuel fills on the gunnel are supposed to have a gutter or dam, so any spills go overboard and not in the boat. Then the authorities can fine you for causing a fuel spill.
  19. Deck glued down, scupper shims installed as well as trim tabs and transducer.
  20. I am not glassing the underside of my decks. Just applying two coats of epoxy resin, making sure the second coat is still tacky while fastening it down. I think the deck should be epoxied down as well as screwed. You could make the fuel tank areas accessible by not epoxying these areas and just screwing down the deck in the fuel tank spots. This is extra work, cutting out the deck over the tanks, measuring and fitting and then use a sealer of your choice and screwing them down. Many recommend this as access is invaluable if you have fuel problems down the road. I put a round deck hatch over all hose connections to the tanks so connections can be checked and maintained as well as the tank data stamped on the tank can be viewed. I think this is required by law. Replacing a hose would be difficult but not impossible through these hatches. I did not make deck cut outs for the entire tank. Perhaps I may regret this some day. However the dimensions of the fuel tank space can me measured for through the round deck hatches and the deck cut out to access the tanks in the future should a tank develop a leak. This would have to be done carefully and a power saw could not be used for fear of an explosion. I used anti fouling paint on my bottom even though it is stored on the trailer. I can drop the boat in anywhere and leave it for a week or month and have no worries about growth on the hull. The paint I used is good for a couple yrs and can be launched and hauled without affecting the effectiveness of the bottom paint. Not all bottom paints work this way and many must be repainted if the boat is left on the trailer for any length of time. So check the paint instructions before buying. A schematic of hose routes and wiring would be good for future reference. In some areas your hoses and such my be close to the deck. Screws or other fastenings or cutting into the deck cannot be done in these areas. Well you know what I'm getting at. This all has to be worked out for anything you are installing on the deck. Leaning post, T Top and so on. Peel ply will save you adding many coats of epoxy to fill the weave. In fact if you do it right you can go straight to a paint such as Interprotect which fills the weave nicely if you did your peel ply job correctly. Peel off the peel ply and sand and fair any bad spots or ridges left by the peel ply. Then go straight to the interprotect. No sanding needed because of the peel ply. What a work saver. Interprotect goes on heavy without runs and can be used as a primer for many paints, including perfection.
  21. How long did you let it cure before pulling on it? Did you wet out the ply before laying on the cloth and if so did you let the resin cure before applying the cloth? I have heard of bad batches of epoxy but have never seen it myself. Also is the cloth compatible with epoxy, as some kinds of glass are not, which can cause adhesion problems. Very odd. Hope you get it figured out
  22. I had a similar problem while doing an inside panel. I had never, and I mean never had a problem like this before. Most areas were perfectly cured and one quite large spot was still gooey. I was using west system slow hardener which is quite clear. After some serious thinking I did remember putting down my resin after pumping out the proper strokes and quickly doing another small job before returning to my glass work. I had forgotten to add the hardener, stirred the resin without the hardener and applied it. Needless to say I had to redo the entire panel. I stripped off the glass, scraped to bare wood and then sanded with 80 grit. The next try was perfect and I've never had another problem. Just goes to show. You must not loose your track of thought. Keep track of your number of pumps, make sure your pumps are delivering the right amount and stir thoroughly. I did have to replace my main resin pump during my project. I started getting quite a few bubbles in my resin, changed the pump and resolved the problem. When I glassed the outside of the boat it was summer and I used the Slow Tropical hardener. This took several days to reach full hardness. I agree. Unless the epoxy had not reached full cure. All according to the type of hardener being used and the temps involved. I've seen temps change enough during the cure phase that another 24 hrs brought about the cure I thought should have come sooner. 10 - 20 degrees can make a big difference in cure time even when your lower temps fall well within the epoxy's suitable working limits.
  23. Yes, and I like them that way. At least you can get a look before turnover. Good to see you are still working on the boat Fishman. I am making progress as well, but I'm not putting in the hrs I did in the beginning. My motor has arrived but I won't be ready for it until the weather breaks. I hope sometime in Feb. Keep the updates coming. I'll post some when some more progress has been made.
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