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Miyot

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Everything posted by Miyot

  1. Approaching turnover. Installed two 4X6 beams today, one more to go. One more coat of interprotect, two coats of bottom paint, sand the topsides and apply another coat of sanding surface r and turn her over. Perhaps by Wednesday.
  2. Even the best organic vapors cartridge in a respirator does nothing to remove the isocyanates from the air you breath if it contains vapors from a solvent based 2 part LPU. And since they (isocyanates) are odorless the fact that you smell nothing only means it has removed the solvents with an odor. Supplied air (along with a suit) is the only true protection from these paints. So should I move the boat outdoors for painting the top sides with the LPU. I had hoped removing the wall at the end of the barn would eliminate the vapors from collecting. I appreciate the advice.
  3. Finally some paint going on. Starting with Interprotect 2000E, then Micron CSC on the bottom. I'm using Epoxy Primekote 404 on the topsides followed with Perfection Fighting Lady Yellow. The Interprotect goes on easily with no problems with runs or sags and fills little imperfections nicely. An organic filter and plenty of ventilation is a must. When I get to the Perfection paint I will remove the end wall to the barn for ventilation and to prepare for turnover. The Perfection paint is nothing to mess with. Full body protection and an organic filter with really good cross ventilation is imperative for rolling on the paint. I'm going to roll it on and tip with a brush. I removed the air conditioner at one end of the barn and had good cross ventilation for laying on the Interprotect. Even with a good breeze the organic filter was a must.
  4. Use once and throw away. I got mine from US Composites. Get the release fabric. Not the vacuum or perforated kind.
  5. Ah, the fun part. I used peel ply on the entire hull. It is a pain but worth it. Roll the peel ply onto a stick, wet out your glass then roll on the peel ply after completing a section. Here are the problems I ran into. It won't lay around a curve so you have to dart it. Say at the stem or the aft corners at the transom. Some darts work well and others don't. Some darts overlap each other. This is ok. However at the end of the dart you may get a bubble in the peel ply. If you can fix it, good. But don't spend a lot of time messing with it. Leave the bubble. Later when you remove the peel ply it is easy to just lay in a little epoxy and lay on a small square of peel ply. Fixed perfect in just a minute. Other darts will remain open, let them. Cut a small sheet just big enough to cover the spot and lay it on the open dart. Leave some edge of the peel ply free so you can grab it and peel it off after the epoxy cures. When darting, cut a nice clean edge. A rough edge will get epoxied to the hull. You can get it off but will have to sand off some of the fibers of the peel ply that stick to the hull. No big deal as you have to sand a little on a darted area because it leaves a little ridge. You have to sand off any small areas of peel ply thread stuck to the hull as it has a release on it that could affect future adhesion. This is easy as if your careful there won't be much. Try not to stretch your peel ply while laying it down. You end up doing this a little any how as you smooth the peel ply out. After removing the peel ply you will find a few small wrinkles or humps in your surface here and there where a small wrinkle formed. You usually don't notice these if they are small. These imperfections sand out easily as its not the glass that wrinkles but the peel ply. The resin is sucked into the wrinkle under the peel ply causing a lump the exact shape of the wrinkle. You usually get these on the more curved areas but will get some on the flat as well. The peel ply must be perfectly smooth as you can make it. Any wrinkle or even a fold mark in the peel ply cloth will be printed onto your hull surface. Wet out your glass well enough before adding the peel ply as it will suck up some of the resin. I ran into a little problem with my lay up. I used 17 oz bi axial. I did the transom first and it is nearly perfect. Took my time. However your time is limited by yourself so you are hurrying doing larger areas. I got a lot of small pin holes in my surface caused by not wetting out quite enough. Let me explain. The glass was whetted out nicely with no dry areas. I rolled out the peel ply. Which absorbs some of the resin. Then wet out the peel ply. In bi axial glass there are little ropes that hold everything together. A small bubble formed on each side of the ropes in areas. These roll out and disappear when releasing the air with the ribbed roller, as they did on the transom. But if you are just a hair short on resin they will reappear later or you can't get them to roll out. Adding resin to the peel ply doesn't work as not enough resin will go through it to fix the problem. You would have to peel back the peel ply and add a little resin to the glass to fix the problem. Time was short on the lay up and being inexperienced I let it go because the bubbles were so small and only appearing in small areas I didn't think it was a real problem. After removing the peel ply I have patches of small pin holes. VERY small pin holes. Rolling on a coat of epoxy doesn't fix them. So I was stuck fixing pin holes for a day. I used micro balloons and resin and had to force it into the pin holes with a hard plastic squeege. Extra work I could have avoided. These pin holes were not deep and did not go to the hull surface. They were about as deep as half the diameter of the ropes or threads holding the weave together. But would not fill by just rolling resin on as a fill coat. They would reappear after. Two thin coats of epoxy after removing the peel ply was enough for sanding without hitting the glass (although I did barely touch the glass in a few spots). These were applied back to back to avoid sanding in between. I got a nice smooth surface. Then I did some fairing and patching and fixed the pin holes. Rolled on two more very thin coats of epoxy and will sand it smooth today. Almost ready for paint. I don't like getting ready for paint and my finish will show how much. Hope this give you a little insight. From one beginner to another. Dave
  6. Thanks Randolph. I have 8 0z glass for the console I had bought months ago. I am going to glass it. I was wondering about the thickness of the ply for the console because it actually provides a lot of support for the Top. Perhaps 1/2" will be thick enough with a good frame work inside. All my edges on the console will get a half inch round over so a descent frame will be necessary anyhow.
  7. Not much to show lately. The boat is glassed which went really well, and is now nearly ready for paint. I have a question to anyone who can answer. I'm about ready to build the console and have been wondering on how thick it should be. I have 1/2 inch ply which I have considered and I also have enough 1/4" I could glue up and make it 3/4 inch thick. Or I could go with 3/8 and 1/4 and make it 5/8 thick. The console is 3' by 4' by some 50 odd inches tall. Half inch would be lighter and the 3/4 beefier. What should it be? Turn over coming soon. My T Top and leaning post have arrived from Birdsall Marine and I am pleased and can't wait to see them on the boat. Outboard is also ordered. I'm moving on, but a long way to go. I'll get some pics up soon.
  8. Thats it. I've had enough. Fishman 38, I'm adding you to my friends list. A real craftsman, now that is funny. Made me laugh.
  9. Very clean looking, nice fits in your notches. Those planes are old and have no real use. Send them to me and I'll discard them for you.
  10. Russell. Great progress, you are well underway. Don't underestimate yourself. The camera hides a lot, and your work may well be better than mine. Keep the pics coming. I'm really interested in this boat. I see you added your longitudinal stiffeners before installing your stringers. Looks like a good idea and a time saver. Never would have thought of it. Also thanks for the staple idea. You may be smarter as well.
  11. Thanks Carlos. Dale the boat is beautiful. Thanks for the pic.
  12. Hey Hightech. I'm going to paint her Fighting Lady Yellow. I got Micron CSC bottom paint in black. I'll have no boot stripe. The peel ply is excellent, but a pain to use. Its surface tension properties are excellent. It helps fill the weave nicely. I believe two thin coats on top will be enough to allow sanding without hitting the glass. I was planning to mix in a little 407 (micro balloons) to ease sanding and help fill any small defects. I'm unsure on how much to use. Any ideas? I think I read somewhere to use 5-7% by volume. I found a dealer and will order a Yamaha 150 soon. Here is a pic of my T Top under construction.
  13. Bottom of boat is glassed. Well there are over 5000 staples in the boat, and about a dozen of them on the starboard side bottom didn't seal properly when I applied the seal coat of epoxy. I began glassing at noon not worrying about out gassing because of the seal coat. Anyhow I had a dozen small bubbles on the bottom starboard side. I slit them and nursed them as I worked. They all turned out good, with the glass filled and and epoxied to the hull. However the peel ply would not lay back down on these spots, leaving the weave of the glass visible. These were easily patched with a little epoxy and a new piece of peel ply on top after the peel ply was removed. I started glassing the port side at 7:00 PM and had no out gassing problems. Also went much quicker.
  14. I'm sure a bracket could be done if the designer okd it. But would move center of buoyancy, and I think ruin the looks. Glassed the starboard bottom today. Full length in one go, 6 1/2 hrs. Everything went well except for outgassing at some of the staple holes. Gave me fits. I cut slits in the peel ply and glass at these spots to let it lay down. I think most of them worked but some may need patched. I was flippin out. I had put a thin seal coat of epoxy on to avoid the outgassing thing. Apparently some of the staple holes remained unsealed. All well, done for the day.
  15. I'm not sure what a port bracket is. The engine will be bolted to the transom. I have never liked bracket boats nor do I think much of jack plates. I will spend some time making sure the engine is at the right height and propped right. I have found a dealer and will order the outboard in a couple weeks. Yamaha 150 four stroke.
  16. I agree. Even so called blush free epoxies can still leave a blush. To much to loose, so give it a wipe down.
  17. From everything I've read, when you peel off the peel ply it takes the blush with it. I'm leaving the peel ply on to avoid contamination until I'm ready to put the big pieces of glass on the boat. I'll report on the blush after peel ply comes off. I should be ready to fit the big glass pieces tomorrow, but will glass the transom first.. The peel ply was difficult to use on the stem or forefoot. You had to dart it to get it to lay where it makes a bend. It still isn't perfect, with a few gaps and wrinkles here and there. These places will need some sanding and messing with when the peel comes off. But it sure makes the layup nice.
  18. I just mix up a big batch and as soon as the mixture is right I spread it into a thin layer on a scrap piece of plywood. I lay it on with a mixing stick. Once I lay it all on I pull my fillet tool along the seam for the entire fillet. Then I clean up the edges and use the extra to extend the fillet along the seam. You soon get the feel for now much to mix up. I considered the baggie thing but figured it would be a mess. By the time you get the mixture into a tube,I've got most of the fillet filled. Then you would have to clean the tube. I wish there was a better way. Epoxy is messy and that is the worst part of this build for me. I have begun glassing. I am taping the chines and keel at this time. The peel ply is excellent. I will order some for interior work as well. I am so pleased with the peel ply that I am going to use it on everything. It makes a messy job less messy. Consolidates the cloth, saves a lot of sanding work, removes excess epoxy, makes an amateur job look professional. Blah blah blah, I like it.
  19. Seal coat and amine blush. I put a seal coat on before starting glassing. Weather was great and I started about 9:00 pm. Rolled on a coat. About 2 1/2 hrs. The fumes were a little strong so I opened the door for some air. It had started to rain and the temp had dropped. There was no out gassing and the finish looked great so I closed up and went to bed. Next morning the blush was obvious. It didn't bother me, I waited until this morning and went down with some water and a scotchbrite and went to work. No way. It would not come off. No matter how hard I scrubbed the water continued to bead on the surface. I finally resorted to wet sanding. This did the trick. Tomorrow I'll go over it and scuff sand a little more and check for areas of beading water and wet sand any spots left. It had to be scuff sanded anyhow. But glass adhesion would have been compromised without the wet sanding. Our weather has been weird. I'm sure this played a big roll on the blush. I hung a rack for the glass and peel ply and they are ready. I'll finish work on the sanding tomorrow and let it sit for a day so it is really dry after the wet sanding. I'll begin by taping the keel and chines and glassing the transom. Should be a good warm up for glassing the hull. Here is a wet out pic.
  20. CarolinaFlare, thanks for the info and kind words. Sounds like a pretty good idea.
  21. Its a little thing called hydrodynamics. The squared off transom allows the water to break cleanly away from the transom. A curved trailing edge causes turbulence indicative of an advanced hydraulic. This turbulent effect is an inverse ratio of chaos theory duplicity inversion. If gravity is X = 314.56 then the gravometric intolerance is influenced by the trailing edge of a nucleoli. Hence the inversion ratio is dominated by a radiometric process, converted to hydrodynamic instability. Its easy. Or it could the the epoxyclips!
  22. Rounded the chine, transom and shear clamp today as well as did a little fairing. One more day of sanding and I'm ready to tape the keel and chine. I will build up the transom trailing edge after glassing as I read a rounded transom can cause performance problems. I'll add small strips of glass and resin and build it back up and then grind it square. I hope to be glassing the boat by sometime next week. I am moving forward. Your boat looks excellent. Miyot
  23. Ingolf. I don't want to be the one to convince you to build and then you have problems with your width. However, as the boat sits now without the rub rail installed I believe she would be under your size limit. The outer edge could be fared and finished with a thinner rub rail and come in under your limit. Check with Graham for his thoughts. I think it could be easily done.
  24. Cabin top is beautiful. Windshields look great. Coming along nicely.
  25. Finished planking pics. Sanded 6 hrs today and pulled the chine fillets.
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