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Everything posted by Miyot

  1. Now you will have to find a dealer who will ship it as Moeller doesn't sell direct. It may take a few weeks to get them so start now.
  2. http://www.moellermarine.com/oem/fuel_tanks/ Fishman, they are here, go to fuel tanks and scroll down.
  3. Fishman, mine were stock tanks. The vent and fuel fill are on a dog house.
  4. Hey Lance, good to here from you. Your boat is a beauty, what a finish on her. I'm building another boat myself, a little 12 footer. Something I can beat about and run up on the gavel and sand bars. Again good to here from you and see your still building. Looks like she is ready for the water. Heading out just now for a little ride on the Ocracoke, couldn't be more pleased with her. Graham knows his stuff, thats for sure. Dave
  5. Hey russell, congratulations on a big step completed. Don't take time to look at it, just keep going.
  6. Hooray, hey now wait a minute here. I can't see one bit of epoxy anywhere. She looks super clean. Good job fishman.
  7. Hey Hightech.. Looks real clean. Are your stringers wood or are they foam? I've been pretty busy. Our vacation pretty much got blew out. We came home early from the beach. We have run the boat some but the weather has been weird here and when we can go the kids have something else going. Fishing hasn't been good here, it is an odd summer and unsettled. So while i'm waiting for fishing to pick up I started another boat build. I had one full sheet of ply left over and a pile of scraps as well as some Doug Fir and some nice oak and Mahogany. Just enough I think to build a little 12 foot runabout. Ordered the motor yesterday. A 25 HP Merc. I will complete the frames tomorrow and have the stringers, chine and sheer clamps, etc. cut out. I should have set up about complete this weekend. I'm making no effort to make a beauty, but I am being accurate. I need a boat to bang around and run up on the sand and gravel bars so thats what I'm doing. Keep the pics coming. Dave
  8. Striperick, looking good. My staples protruded on the inside of the boat. Not all but some. In some places there were some splinters, divots, etc. The inside sanding took care of most of it and the glassing covered the small defects nicely. But I wasn't really to concerned about it. Good idea with the sacrificial strips. I know this probably goes without saying, but be careful you are getting good contact and leaving no voids between layers. The staples really won't pull the layers together, but will hold them together once they are either clamped or enough pressure can be brought to bear on the stapler. I know the flair in your bow area isn't as pronounced as the Ocracoke, but take care you are getting good contact between panels. I believe your planks may be thinner than the Ocracokes but take care, making sure you use enough resin and getting good contact between layers. I guess my point is not to count on the staples pulling the planks together, just holding them there after either clamping or using adequate pressure on the stapler. And this is not easy. Body weight may not be enough in some areas. Considerable force is needed and I could leverage my body and strength against my barn walls. Make sure your staples are protruding into the second layer enough to hold well. My staples held so well that you could not pull a test panel apart without breaking the staples off and even then it was extremely difficult and the outside layer of of the test panel would actually crack while trying to pry it off. Now after all this being said, I did use the Raptor staples, perhaps you are using the metal type which may pull back out. The Raptors should not be able to be pulled out! I've been following your build and it looks good. Dave
  9. Should have someone there with you. If I hadn't taken a full round turn with my control line she would have gotten away from me. Can't wait to see it upright. All your hard work is paying off. I think only another builder knows how much work goes into it.
  10. Looks fantastic. Bet your bustin to turn it over. Should have mentioned this,but never thought about it. Your waterline looks excellent. However an optical illusion occurs when you put the boat in the water. If your water line is level, it will appear to droop towards the bow. I raised my waterline about 3/4 of an inch at the stem and ran a batten back, or aft 5 or six feet to the real water line. So the water line actually rises to the stem. Just a trick I have read about. The boat looks great. Dave
  11. Hey russell. I can't remember the angle of my planks, but they were close to what was recommended. I do remember reducing the width to 8 inches. I'll get a measurement next time out of barn
  12. I do have one question for u & all other builders on this forum: I am currently building my shop that I WILL build at least 1 if not 3-4 boats in, smallest I would build will be oracoke 24.....the question is what is the minumum height door you would put in it....I'm thinking 12' just think 10' would be to low....thought would be appreciated. Well I'd go for a door that will accommodate that largest boat you think you will build and remember cabins, trailers, and such. I think my opening is around 10 ft as well as the interior height. I just barely had enough for turn over and I had to spend more on the T Top to get the folding one so I could store the boat in the barn. It just fits. Remember chain hoists and block and tackle, or what ever you use for lifting, reduce the amount of vertical space available in your building. Bigger is better, but usually costs more. Good luck on your projects.
  13. I have to do some more trials to be positive on things. I believe she stays on plane with some tab, down to 12 or 15 knots. Maybe even less. There is some bow rise, especially if you punch it. But if you accelerate smoothly it is hard to tell when she comes on plane. A really smooth transition. She doesn't drag much water behind her or dig a hole. I had her in the inlet last week for about 20 min and seemed well behaved, but it was blowing 15 to 20 and we didn't stay or run clear out. The hurricane and steady 20- 30 knot winds all week ended our vacation short. I'll post some better numbers when I get some more time on her.
  14. Rascal, check your messages. Sent you a PM
  15. Thanks Ronny B. I lost two months of build time because I was sick of it. I tried to work on it but just couldn't. Total burnout. I put an easy 160 hrs on it the last two weeks and could not be pulled away from it. Thats how it goes. Good luck with your launching. Its a little nerve wracking with a new boat, but I'm sure things will go well for you. Dave
  16. Thanks Hightech. The basement will wait a while. I'm going fishing.
  17. Plastic is like poor mans peel ply. But kind of acts similar. Every wrinkle in the plastic fills up with epoxy and is a mirror image of itself. The bubbles can usually be worked out if enough resin is available to fill them. You could run the bubble out with a plastic spreader, but they often return. A bubble usually forms along the edges. Your ok there. Just sand them smooth and feather the edges of the tape. An orbital sander works well here with about 80 grit. The white ish spots you have may be resin starved. Always check as you go and add a little more resin to the white spots until transparent. It is to late now to add more resin. It must be done before curing. Peel ply works better as you can roll out the air with a ribbed metal or plastic roller. Your seam looks ok. Nothing some sanding wont fix. Just make sure the cloth is wet out properly next time. After wetting out the glass, give it a roll with the ribbed roller to release small air bubbles. I posted this before I saw Howards post, so what he said to.
  18. Thanks fishman. Hey, once you get the inside bottom glassed and start decking, things will move quickly. Take your time with the fuel tank install. This just takes a while. Keep pushing ahead.
  19. Good one mattp. Ok LennieG, stop looking at it and get back to work.
  20. In the water. The river was up a good 8 ft and muddy with some debris and a few logs. Not good for a test run, but I kept a close eye and things went well. Current was 3 knots in places. I should probably raise the engine a notch, but here are some performance numbers. Yamaha 150 4 stroke turning a 14 1/2 X 17 aluminum prop. RPM's, 5300 was all I could get. Specs call for 5500 to 6000. At 5300 rpm's I got 37 knots, or 42.55 MPH. I carried 30 gallons in the forward tank and 10 gallons in the aft tank. The boat sat really pretty with the scuppers 3 to 4 inches above the water line at rest. Total fuel cap. is 80 gallons. I ran the boat 3 hrs and I'm still not sure just where cruise is at. At about 3300 rpm's I got around 20 to 21 knots. I should have taken a pad and pencil with me but just forgot with every thing else to think about today. I will post some more accurate numbers in the future. 25 knots took about 4000 - 4200 rpm's. The boat was sensitive to prop torque and a little tab was used to level her out. No engine trim was really used much. Engine trim was mostly down all the way. A touch or two up may have freed her a bit but seemed to like the engine down.\ I ran south a bit to a narrow place where many barges are moored and working. There is always a good chop there. At speed (about 20 knots) she got just a little rough in a steep 1 to 1 1/2 foot chop. Using a little down tab really smoothed her out. Not much tab was needed to make adjustments. She flies. She bleeds off some speed in hard turns like all boats seem to, but not a lot and she was solid. Well behaved, with no problems. Like has been said before, feels like she is on rails. I could not be happier. Can't wait to see how she does in a sea. What a nice boat Graham has designed. Here are some pics. Some more solid numbers later. One more thing. It was a little breezy and she was dry. I never felt a drop of spray the entire time. Thanks all for the nice comments. The hard work was well worth it! Using a little tab she would stay on plane down to at least 2300 rp's. if not slower. sweet
  21. Out the door for trailer inspection and then on to the river for a test run. The Ohio river is up about 7 ft and a little muddy. If it looks ok I'll post some pics and hopefully some performance numbers this evening. Here it is outside the barn.
  22. Installing T Top tomorrow morning and I'll put her in the water. Here are some last pics before she leaves the barn.
  23. Just enough pressure to mate and hold the two parts together. To much pressure can squeeze out most of the epoxy causing a weak joint. Always use some kind of thickener, such as microfibers, when laminating or joining two parts where some gap filling is necessary. Clean up good right after making your joint. It is far easier to clean up before the epoxy hardens than after. I'm sure some others will chime in with many good ideas on epoxy work.
  24. Hey now that looks familiar. Very exciting. She will seem much larger after turnover. Nice to be able to move the boat outside. Looking good Fishman.
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