Dale Niemann Posted April 23, 2015 Report Posted April 23, 2015 I have stripped all the old Rustolem for Aluminum spray can paint off 'Lively's' Masts and now want to paint with something that might last longer. It lasted about 4 years before beginning to peel off. Anybody out there know about a 2 part paint made to cover Aluminum? thanks, dale Quote
Hirilonde Posted April 23, 2015 Report Posted April 23, 2015 Awlgrip makes a primer for aluminum. It is an anti-corrosive with epoxy...............http://www.awlgrip.com/MPYACMDataSheets/4100+A+eng+A4.pdf Quote
LennieG Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Dale-As you know I have not had a lot of time on water, but I checked into the subject pretty good after stripping MY rustoleum, and used Interlux Perfection and its corresponding epoxy primer, which I am pretty sure is Epoxy PrimeKote. So far, very good. Quote
LennieG Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Dale-As you know I have not had a lot of time on water, but I checked into the subject pretty good after stripping MY rustoleum, and used Interlux Perfection and its corresponding epoxy primer, which I am pretty sure is Epoxy PrimeKote. So far, very good. Quote
LennieG Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Dale- I assume you are removing the sail tracks, filling the holes and installing new tracks ( maybe bad assumption.) I have a few holes to fill on my masts.......undecided between lifecaulk and thickened epoxy, or something else....ideas? Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Do you guys spray, or roll and tip? Quote
PAR Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 The trick with painting aluminum is how fast you can get the primer down, after you've cleaned and/or etched the surface, prior to paint. Aluminum oxidizes as soon as you abate the surface, so the best method has you abating as you're coating, such as scuffing the aluminum while applying epoxy. The usual solution is an etch primer and there are several. The top coat can be anything, though the LPU's will be the most durable, but if the primer is well attached, before much oxidation occurred, it'll last. If you waited even a few minutes between sanding and priming, some of the freshly cut aluminum will have developed an oxide, that just spreads under any coatings in time. So the story is, sand/etch and get the primer on as fast as you physically can, maybe a two person job, with someone painting, as you sand and wipe just ahead of them. Quote
Scott Dufour Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Huh. The issue with the aluminum oxide (anodizing) makes complete sense, I just had no idea that it occured that quickly. It also explains why I've had such rotten luck with painting aluminum in the past. Thank you for that information. Quote
Dale Niemann Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Posted April 24, 2015 Thank you everybody. Will let you know what I do. I am trying to get the boat done for my trip to Cedar Key next weekend May 1-2. It is usually one of the biggest events in FL. dale Quote
ecgossett Posted April 26, 2015 Report Posted April 26, 2015 Interlux interprotect 2000 has lasted 4 years on my boat and masts. Over this I used some Dark Green spray paint for aluminum from Lowes. I touched up some areas where it was down to metal due to wear and tear with just the straight up metal spray paint and it has been fine after prepping the surface prior to applying. As far as corrosion goes several companies sell thin plastic washers that are intended for going between things like SS snaps and aluminum hatches. They are as thin as milk container plastic, and saved the work to cut a milk container for the same thing. Where ever I riveted the track I used the washer between track and mast, and on the rivets applied light anti seize. 2 Quote
mcdermitt Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 you have the name of some of the companies that sell the thin washers Quote
ecgossett Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 http://www.bainbridgeint.com/ www.manart-hirsch.com and if your in the Jacksonville FL area, talk to Pat's Canvas off Roosevelt by pier 17, or there is a marine and fabric wholesale place over by the stadium right by the projects, and next to some giant bread bakery. Quote
Dale Niemann Posted May 6, 2015 Author Report Posted May 6, 2015 As I previously said, I appreciate everyone's suggestions and I said I would report back on what I did use. Well, time got away from me and I was panicked about getting the boat done in time for the Cedar Key, FL event which is the biggest small boat event in FL. So I ended up buying Rust Oleam Professional primer for Aluminum and their topcoat in white enamel. It looks great now, we will see how it lasts. I was very careful to sand and prime immediately. Two coats prime and two coats of enamel. I made it to Cedar Key and had a wonderful weekend with just about perfect conditions. There were only about 50 boats or so which was a little smaller than last year. dale Quote
Maria CS20 104 Posted May 9, 2015 Report Posted May 9, 2015 I am doing the same, but I am using self etching Rustoleum primer and a Valspar cover. Did a lot of research and I gots to get this done. Old submarine painter and I put together an approach. He paints yard art, aluminum, iron, and steel. For aluminum he uses RustO self etching primer and two to three good light coats. We selected Valspar anti-rust for the top coat. Ivory tint oil based paint. His approach is it ain't the statue of liberty lets get this done. I sanded the stops to a fine taper and did an 80 grit sand with mineral spirit wipe and then rough broad cloth wipe with acetone then primed, all went well and smooth. Three coats about 45 minute apart and let set up for 30 hours or better. Another rough broadcloth rubdown and we did the first coat of Valspar, oil based armor paint. Using 4 inch high density foam rollers and it goes on smooth and light. We figure three coats. I want to keep it thin but complete coverage. It looks good and it is efficient, still a bit tacky and when dry for 24 hours we'll sand 120 grit and do second coat and repeat for third coat. Next step will be sail tracks and hardware on the boat. We are arranging for 12 Bonniffied.........Certttiffffffied ...........and Homeland Security approved Lepppprrrechannnns to perform some magic on a full moon to lift the boat onto the trailer. We are figuring to have lots of drums, bagpipes, green beer and a huge bonfire as some Irish fairies magically elevate the boat to its preferred resting place onto the trailer. We will weep tears of joy, my bride will cancel the Viking funeral where I was to be the primary guest and "toasted" celebrity if this is not launched. That would be a hot night that I would not look forward to, 6 years of effort brings us to this point and it had been a great adventure. I plan on a light sand on her decks, bright mahogany stain and 6 coats of hard floor varnish. Touch up the hull paint a bit for brightness and . we'll take a picture or two and post. Blessings to all Jim Atkinson Maria CS 20 104 1 Quote
Don Silsbe Posted May 10, 2015 Report Posted May 10, 2015 When you're done with those leprechauns, please send them my way! You made me laugh with that one. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted May 10, 2015 Report Posted May 10, 2015 Personally, I will not use urethane-based varnish on my bright-work. When it does blister and peel, it is tough as nails to repair. I've seen it enough times. I don't want to see it again. 1 Quote
Maria CS20 104 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Posted May 11, 2015 I gots to float or get the goat, I don't mind sanding and buffing the deck each year keeps me from the yard work.............. a well planned approach. An excuse to clean and buff keeps me off the lawn mower and no weed wacker will touch my hands. Little green folks are already applying for the party Blessings to all Quote
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