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Scott Dufour

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Everything posted by Scott Dufour

  1. In heavy weather, I mount the rudder upside down and use it as a windvane. Always thinking outside the box, I am. Actually, Peter's right. That rod is loose right now. It is the pintle material, but not the pintle placement. Incidentally, the set is still available. Rex and I thought he might be able to use it, but shipping to Thailand from the US East Coast is prohibitively expensive.
  2. That sounds like a job for a marine engineer, doesn't it? I think that I'm way out of my league there.
  3. Hey Howard, Yup. I made them. They're just stainless plate, 316, worked on my vice. They still need a welder, though, to close up the point where they pinch together and to weld on the pin to turn them into proper pintles.
  4. Are you thinking steel? I'm pretty uninformed for this kind of structural analysis with metals. What's the grade of steel (I'm assuming not stainless) that's appropriate for this? My quick calculations show that it could be 219 lbs of A131 ABS steel, or maybe as low as 100 lbs 6061-T6. Would aluminum be recommended for this, given the machining nooks and crannies required and the potential for corrosion?
  5. Hey Greg, If you want a head start, I've got the tiller, centerboard, and rudder all ready to go. Shipping from Connecticut to Michigan shouldn't be that bad.
  6. Hi PAR - you are exactly one of the brains I was hoping to pick. I've considered it a metal tabernacle - but not seriously yet. I'm certainly willing. Are you suggesting it to save weight, or bulk, or for more certain strength? I've been thinking wood because: I have plenty and I know how to work with it and epoxy and fiberglass. I don't know how to weld. Wood in the interior is nicer than metal. I like the sound dampening properties of wood - disconnecting the metal mast from the interior by way of softer material like ash just seems a good way to q
  7. Just posting few photos if there's any interest out there.
  8. Hey guys, it's been a long while since I posted on here, but I'm looking for some of the smart people's brain power. Life changes made me abandon the PS26 build, but I'm not through with boats. I've got another large project. I have a gutted Pearson 10M, 1979 GRP, 12k lbs displacement. I'm converting it to a junk rig. Not one of those old flat paneled junk sails that won't go to windward, but a Split Rig junk, developed by Slieve McGalliard about ten years ago. My intent is to contribute as much as possible to the testing of this relatively new rig. She will be a serious offshor
  9. Hey everyone, I used to frequent this site a few years ago, but have been off the radar. Life circumstances have forced me to abandon my build of a PS26. I do have a beautifully built centerboard, rudder, and tiller completed, just taking up space against a wall in my basement. I posted the build progress on here when I was making them. If anybody is interested, please let me know.
  10. So much work, Peter. And she looks absolutely wonderful. Congratulations.
  11. I love the rope trick - it's probably my my useful decision on Rocinante. I use my centerboard as a depth finder all the time, and the kick-up rudder as a "no foolin' it's really shallow" idiot light. This is over some pretty rocky bottoms, too. And they have taken very little wear in spite of this abuse. And so easy to make and repair.
  12. Thanks guys - I'll give Graham a shout.
  13. Oh, boy, CRL. Now you've done it. Perhaps we could take that up on another thread to keep this one from becoming swamped with the Tastes Great / Less Filling debate.
  14. Where is this anchor roller sketch of what you speak, and can it be added to a CS17 mk 1?
  15. This is the same system I have on Rocinante (CS17). It's a matter of personal preference - I like to have the sheet coming from in front of me. It does clutter up the thwart, though.
  16. Huh. The issue with the aluminum oxide (anodizing) makes complete sense, I just had no idea that it occured that quickly. It also explains why I've had such rotten luck with painting aluminum in the past. Thank you for that information.
  17. I like Alan's setup. With the centerboard on a shock cord also, I now have two depth sensors. David: It's pretty common for sand and grit to get into the rudder cheeks and resist gravity. With the bungee system, you can apply more force if necessary to get the rudder down, then ease off once it's there. If the rudder's really resistant, you can pull the downhaul line on the rudder side of the bungees so you don't have the springiness to deal with getting it down.
  18. Go get 'em, Carla. You're one tough cookie.
  19. Good. She deserves to be floating.
  20. I fished nuts all the way up to the snotter: a 12 foot long stiff batten, a wrench fixed to it about eight feet up, the nut held into the box end with a little putty, flashlights in both ends of the mast, steady hands, pure thoughts, and lots of patience. I like the piece of mind knowing they're backed. If I had it to do over, though, I'd use rivnuts.
  21. Hey! I didn't know a PS26 was done yet. She looks great, Wayne. How do you like her?
  22. Seems foolish for a mouse to intentionally make a cat hungrier.
  23. Huh. Ken's experience makes be doubt my installation on my CS17, because I can't get it to start pulling out water until I'm over 6 knots. And if I'm under six knots, it tends to float upward, and leak if I don't have it locked shut. For clarity- I don't mean leak around the neoprene when it's intentionally closed, but leak when it's in the operating mode, with water coming quickly in through the little door thingy that's supposed to open when I hit speed. I've taken to using it like a plug: only when the boat's out of the water. Have others gotten theirs to open as low a 3.5 knots. If s
  24. So I goes out the other day- hook up the trailer, check the lights, all is well. On the way home, a State Trooper pulls me over because the left side lights on the trailer are out. "Hmmm," says I. I get the trailer home and the left side is working, but running right side lights are out. Check the right blinker, and both right and left lights flash for a second. "Oh crap," says I. Pull the wires from the tongue. You guessed it- the little rodents ate through a half-dozen places in the insulation causing all sorts of odd shorts and opens. When I rewire the whole damn thing,
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