Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"

[KevinB]

By the way Steve pick the color you want, regardless.  I wouldn't mind a bit sailing with a boat the same color as mine.

 

kb

[Chick Ludwig]

Do the spar varnishes from either of these suppliers work properly over epoxy coating?

[Hirilonde]

On 6/9/2018 at 6:07 PM, BradW said:

 It does go on bare or primed wood like a dream.  

Yup, that is what it was formulated for 100+ years ago.  I thin about 10% with turps when I use it as a primer for itself over bare wood.  As much as I like it I would use a polyurethane over epoxy,  if I didn't want to deal with a  2-part lpu.

[Steve W]

I still have the boat upside down. I'm about to turn it back over, but I'm thinking it sure would be easy to put the VC17 bottom paint on now over the 2000E barrier coat. This is a hard bottom paint that works great for trailer sailors. My question is how do I mark the waterline? I can easily jack the boat to any level and since it's on a poured floor mark the same distance from the floor to the waterline. It looks like the DWL is 34.5 from the bow stem, but the dimensions in the stern are hard to read. on my overall plan. If anyone has this dimension, please let me know.

 

[AmosSwogger]

I used the measurements in this thread to mark the waterline, these numbers should work for you even if the boat is upside down:  Link .  

[Steve W]

That is gold! Thanks for the link. I can't believe I hadn't seen that before.

[Steve W]

So I am putting the center board in. I made the board before I cut the slot. Mistake.  I have a board with about 5/16 of slop. She'll never get hung up but I'm worried that she'll wallow around and go bump in the night. Options: 

• Thicker board.....no.
• Shim with spacer(s)
• Build up board around pivot area. 

What do you think?

[Chick Ludwig]

For the small amount you need to add, I'd just build it up with epoxy/cloth. You still want to have some "slop". Maybe 1/8" - 3/16".

[Pete McCrary]

I wouldn't bother.  Except when going almost directly downwind the board will be side loaded and wont flop around.  When going directly downwind, you hardly need the CB and might even pull it up.

[Chick Ludwig]

Hey Pete, what Steve is fretting about is the board banging around in the trunk while he's trying to sleep at night. At anchor. That can be irritating. As bad as halyards slapping against a metal mast. The easy answer is to pull the board up. But things aren't always as easy as they seem. With the board up, the silly boat wants to sail back and forth, snatching up short on each tack.That's annoying too. The board down will stop or slow the thing down. But then the board goes clunk if it's too loose. Ah, jut drive a big screw through the trunk into the board. That will keep it quiet. NO---ONLY KIDDING!!!!

 

After that problem is solved, the next irritating thing is the mast"humming" in the wind. I guess it's actually the halyards vibrating. I always find a way to pull them away from the mast so they don't slap, but then they do the vibrating thing when the wind picks up. Ear plugs, turn the big band music up, I dunno. Am I the only one who has this problem? Well, not on the new boat. No mast on the power cruiser!

 

Sorry Steve, you can have your discussion back now.

[Jknight611]

Hi Steve, and the rest! We have been on the road a lot lately so a little late to this party but....

we built the centerboard cheeks as per plan then eliminated the extra slop with several coats of Graham’s epoxy with West System barrier coat additive to shim the board to very little slop.  I pulled the board out several months ago just for a look-see and all was well in the center board area.  But laying under the boat on the trailer and bench pressing the board up while Carol tried to reinstall the pin..... grrrrrrr

 

Jay

[AmosSwogger]

For what its worth (not much ) I've got about 1/4" of play in my centerboard now.  I'm going to leave it as is; if it bothers me after I get some overnight time on her I may consider increasing its thickness with extra layers of fiberglass or big teflon washers.  It is much easier to increase thickness than to reduce it down.

[Jknight611]

Yea, put some ballast water in, we have slept in a few rolly anchorages in the Mississippi Sound,  never noticed the board making any noise.  A full ballast tank and the boat is pretty darn stiff! 

[Steve W]

Thanks for the info. I punted for now and rolled the boat over. I'll hoist her on her side soon and deal. I got a pretty smooth case interior so I think I'll shim a bit with Glass. I also forgot to put the cushioning foam in that Pete M gave me so I'll do all that at the same time. I'm heading up to Maine to go sailing for a week and when I get back it will be time to get her out of the basement! People keep asking how I'm getting her out and I say "I have a saws-all that I'm not afraid to use.......on the house!"

 

 

[AmosSwogger]

Well, hopefully your basement will give birth naturally and you wont have to perform a "sea section".

 

Provide us some pictures when the time comes; this should be interesting!

[Steve W]

I've been slacking on pictures. I hurt my back cutting down some trees on my property. I've always chuckled at boats named "Perseverance" or some other adjective, but maybe they built there own boat and just had stuff interfering all the way.

 

Anyway, I'm almost better now and I got the green light from my doctor to do anything that doesn't hurt too bad. So here is proof of my activity.

Using the good advice you all gave me I flipped her back with just my son Teddy's help. Me on the come-along and him doing the actual flipping.

 

Interior Ceiling painted and hull barrier coated, wet dry sanded to 220 and looking smooth. Not shown is the Anderson bailer installed.

 

I had some 6" wide tape and I decided to run it on top of the bulkheads. It drapes over both top joints and makes me feel good. I still haven't decided if I'm going to run tape at the back of the seat/bottom of the coamings. What are your thoughts?

 

I threw this picture in for Amos. See that double door behind the 4" sewer pipe? That 48" door is where she has to fit to get out of the basement. Right now the boat is 47 5/8" from the keel to the tallest spot. But Vegas and my friends and neighbors haven't been giving me good odds.

 

The two pics above are of the motor mount. I'm pretty happy with how that came out. It swings 360 and gets the normal shaft motor low enough that the cavitation plate is below the hull. I did just realize I forgot to drill a drain hole.

Did I mention that I need to get this hunk of plywood, glass, resin and effort out of my shop? That pile of stuff on my workbench is any number of hatches, rudder parts, tillers, etc.........

 

Tommorow I should get a seal coat on the rest of the boat and get her ready for fairing . Once that is all done I'm about as far as I can go before it needs to head out on the trailer that should be here Tuesday!

 

 

 

[KevinB]

You've got 3/8 of an inch "float".   I'll take the odds.    This thing is looking great Steve.

 

kb

[Chick Ludwig]

You could install a zipper right around the sheer line...

If you don't want to do that, you could jack up the house.

I agree with Kevin---it's looking great!

[AmosSwogger]

I came to this thread hoping for pictures and funny Chick replies, and was happily rewarded with both! 

 

I like the curve on the end of your coamings, it goes nicely with the round access hole.

[Chick Ludwig]

Aa-ha Amos! Did ya hear the one about........

I love seeing you youn-uns building boats along with us old geezers.