Lapwing #20 aka Hirilondë

[Action Tiger]

Okay. You need a hand blown bottle, preferably old enough to have purpled a bit. Then, you rib hitch it a nice little jacket, and sling it from a bronze hook, or gimbal mount or some such. Then, you put your step drain tube in the bottle.

Simple.

[LennieG]

Your boat is looking very good Dave!

[Hirilonde]

  On 5/23/2015 at 3:38 AM, Action Tiger said:

On a more serious note, does the other mast keep a more traditional set up, like it is, or does it get tubed, too?

 

More traditional, it has a step and the thwart becomes the partner.  I was considering another tube, but I would be forced to move the tube off-center as it would be too wide to fit next to the centerboard trunk.  And because stepping the mizzen is easier, because I can stand right next to the location.  I don't think the ease added by a tube is necessary like it is reaching over the fore deck to step the main mast.

[Hirilonde]

All the seat tops and related surfaces are in and the interior is well into the seal, fair, sand, rinse, repeat loop.

 

 

This is the pattern I make for flat but strangely shaped plywood.  It is strips of doorskin (1/8" birch) plywood which is scribed to fit edges and hot glued together in place until the whole perimeter is formed.

 

 

Just a random shot.

 

 

The name boards are cut out and routed.  Next will be some hand cleaning, shaping of the graphics, then I think I will get some imitation gold leaf paint.

 

 

 

[Ken_Potts]

Why not try actual gold leaf?

[Tom Lathrop]

I guess I don't understand why anyone would not route the mast tube drain overboard instead of into the boat.  Its above the waterline, easy to do and foolproof if done right.  A tube exiting the hull only goes a distance of a couple inches and should be encapsulated in glass and epoxy, making it virtually impregnable and you can just forget about it.  A drain tube routed through the bow compartment is subject to damage and could be a nuisance.  Draining into the bow compartment itself has obvious issues including making anything in there wet.  One of the main reasons I made a drain in the first place was to allow drainage when the boat is not in use.  This came about when a mast tube in a Sunfish got wet and froze, rupturing the tube and causing much work. 

[Action Tiger]

So, I felt bad about the bottle barb. I'm pretty snarky I guess. I'm not a Smith or an Ashley, but it is what it is. Geez, I hope I finish before you, and it fits.

[Dale Niemann]

Dave,

 

I agree with Tom on the mast drain.  I put a plastic tube temporarily in and then epoxied it in place. Then I pulled the plastic tube out.  I have had absolutely no problems with it draining overboard since she was launched in 2007.

 

dale

[Don Silsbe]

I have no experience with mast drains. But on my boat, they will all drain inside. Actually, two out of three all drIn inside all the tome anyway. We're only talking about the forward one. The drains are only "used" when the boat is not holding the mast in the tube. For me, that is when the boat is covered in my back yard. What am I not considering?

[Ken_Potts]

Water that splashes onto the mast while sailing runs down the tube.  If there is a drain overboard it then runs back out to the world.  Rain runs down the mast, too.

[Hirilonde]

Interior is all primed and took her out on the lawn to do a final test fit of the masts.

 

[Dale Niemann]

Wow, Dave,

 

She looks very beautiful.  Especially sitting in a beautiful forest setting.

 

What is sticking down under the center thwart?  I am curious.

 

dale

[Hirilonde]

  On 6/8/2015 at 7:14 PM, Dale Niemann said:

Wow, Dave,

 

She looks very beautiful.  Especially sitting in a beautiful forest setting.

 

What is sticking down under the center thwart?  I am curious.

 

dale

Thanks Dale, it's my front yard.  Sticking down under the center thwart?  The mast? centerboard trunk? or center bulkhead?

[Dale Niemann]

Oh, I think I see what you mean.  I thought the white area looks like two pods rounded on the outside.  Thought maybe you had some extra storage pod or something under the thwart.  Now I see that the white I am seeing is the floor forward and there is a bulkhead in grey shadow.  I was not expecting that.  On the CS there is not a bulkhead that goes under the thwart in the same way.

 

Sorry, I understand now.

 

dale

[Hirilonde]

I don't know that the bulkhead is necessary in the normal sense, but it is part of the jig, so it is important during building.  It also makes aligning the centerboard trunk easier as you lay out the slot that will be cut out to allow the trunk to pass through before you assemble anything.  So if the frame/jig was true when you built the boat, then the layout for this slot is true for the centerboard trunk later on.

[Paul356]

beautiful

[Action Tiger]

Well, I had a little snafu with the bottle. I tried to get some cotton clothesline to do some turkshead knots, but all I could find was synthetic.

Good news is, field trip to the actual hardware store! I'm going to buy 7oz of nails and a gross of screws, too, because you can there.

Here's a pic of the almost done hook, which is, unfortunately, copper and not bronze...

[Hirilonde]

Is copper to soft?  It's a lot easier to work.

[Action Tiger]

This is some thick wire from my utility buddy, so it's pretty tough to start, but after you tap it about 392,986 times with your ball pain hammer, it work harden nicely.

It makes awesome rivets.

Just unfortunate because donkey me said bronze hook.

Ball pein, but pain is probably more accurate...

[Action Tiger]

If you don't take pictures of your stuff and zoom in, you can't see how terrible it really looks.

The turkshead is the caulk and paint of the rope work world.

This is clear sealed, now I'll throw some paint on, and attach the hook around the service on the neck...