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Lapwing #20 aka Hirilondë


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Boy, I really hate you guys with time to work on your boats! :)

She looks sweet, especially the transom view. Dang, I wish those planks had gains in them, though, but I bet you don't. ;)

I have no idea of the cb arrangements on this boat, but I usually put some kind of bolt or pin through case and board in the fully up position, or through the board above the case, as fits the application, to make sure it stays up. I learned that trick when I built an SF Pelican, and I've used one on every cb boat since. I don't know if that's what you're looking for...

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Looking a little more closely at the trailer it seems like the boat is sitting a little high constrained by the trailer fenders. The bent cross tubes are not helping so you are ending up with a lot of extra space between the keel and the trailer cross tubes. Are you setting it up to float onto the trailer or roll up on the keel rollers?

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This is my trailer before I added a sheet of 1/2" treated ply to the frame.  Roller is on the aft cross bar and CB rests on the plywood.  My fenders look lower and I have 8" wheels with the larger 540 tires instead of 12" wheels.  Worked well on trips to Maine and many other shorter jaunts.


I like the gains forward but not at the transom.  Narrower strakes forward would look awkward without gains.


Picture did not post so I must have forgotten how to do it.

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I did a lot of hunting around for trailers.  I chose 12" wheels because so many said they were better on the highway (less rpms).  Not sure about how I will load and off load at the ramp.  I want to be able to winch the boat up on the rollers, but may choose to float it when ever possible.  I have already adjusted the forward roller up to the boat.  I will buy 2 more  for the cross beams.  It is really hard finding a trailer with 1,000 # capacity or less.

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  • 2 weeks later...

More progress..........


I finished the last strake right side up and wanted to strengthen everything up a bit before flipping the boat again.  So I completed the side deck framing and added the curves that will support the curves in the combing.  The addition of the carlin makes a huge difference in stiffening it all up  I cut out the excess jig portion of the aft and mid bulkheads, so now all that is left will stay.  This cannot be done until  the deck framing is done.




I had made the centerboard and trunk pieces a while ago and it was now time to install the trunk.  I really wanted to be able to access inside and out while doing so.  I came up with an alternative method to what Graham suggests in the plans.  I did it all upside down.  I forgot to take photos of doing the first part of this.  I cut out the slot in the mid bulkhead and clamped the sides of the trunk together.  Then did a dry fit as suggested by Graham, but did it upside down.  Because the boat is resting on a saw horse on the longitudinal bulkheads the saw horse crosses the boat perfectly flush with where the top of the trunk should be.  And because the trunk passes through the aft bulkhead and should end up exactly flush with the top of that bulkhead I have 2 very good references and means for holding the trunk right where I want it for final fitting and aligning.  After scribe/fitting the temporarily assembled trunk to the hull, which took a couple of trim and fits I layed out and cut the slot in the hull.  I cut it with a Fein Multi-Master erring slightly narrow.  After another dry fit I discovered I could wedge the assembled trunk tightly up against the keel batten using scraps the same width as my king posts wedged into the slot in the hull and up against the inside of the trunk.  So rather than attaching one side of the trunk to the keel batten before assembling the other side in place I glued the entire trunk together first and installed it using these wedges, the saw horse and a board clamped across the aft bulkhed over (under because the boat is upside down) the trunk  This locked the trunk beautifully in place for tabbing to the hull inside the boat.


In this photo I have already tabbed the trunk to the inside of the hull, but it shows how I secured the trunk in place for doing so:




You will note 2 scraps of wood clamped into the inside of the trunk and sticking up (down, but the boat is upside down).  These assure that the slight bow in the sides of the trunk were straight during tabbing and later served to support a filler inside the trunk, 3 inches from the bottom of the boat.  This filler piece was then taped to the inside of the trunk, all the way around and served to keep all drips of epoxy from getting away from me into the trunk while tabbing the inside of the trunk to the outside of the hull. 


I tabbed both sides of the slot to the trunk at the same time, then wedged 2 pieces of okoume scraps, 3" wide and the length of the trunk, covered in plastic into the trunk such as to act like a mold to keep the tape flat and smooth to the inside of the trunk and cut down on sanding in that tedious place.  This is what it looked like:




I was pleased with the outcome, so I replaced the mold, wedged it in again and filled in the overly rounded corners to the slot that facilitated the tape and proceeded to hot coat the entire hull 2 times.




Now I am sanding, and sanding, and sanding some more to ready the hull for painting.


Graham has sent me a sail car/slide like will come with my sails I ordered from him.  I tested it to the bronze track on the Snipe mast that has hung in my garage for 30 years and it fits perfectly.  I will run up to the Wickford Marine Consignment soon and see if the Blue Jay and similar masts with hardware they have for sale match.  If so I will buy one and between the 2 I should have enough bronze track, masthead sheaves and sundry  hardware to equip my masts in bronze and at a cost of less than SS track alone if purchased new.  No better sliding surface then well broken in and very old bronze and I am not a big fan of shiny silver color.  Especially on a classic looking design.


While scoping out mast hardware I came across a bronze sand cast of a small bit that was missing the cross bar.  But as I was buying an old bronze rod I found for the centerboard pin I drilled out and fit it to the casting I bought for peanuts and came up with this:




Nothing makes me feel good about the security of my boat like a foredeck bit.  I will drill out the 4 bolt holes and through bolt it through the deck and deck beam with a backer plate.


Now back to sanding, and more sanding.............................




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if you crack out a picture of a sweet fisherman anchor that will be tied off on that bitt, I will have the winter switch turned back on! :)

I dig the way you did your trunk as a unit, too. I do not, however, envy you all that epoxy work.

This is becoming the well finished, classy boat I was expecting.

As for the sanding, I've been working on a big wooden house painting job lately. I made up a new song that may help you.

Scrape, scrape, scrape, sand, sand, sand. Gosh, this is terrible.

You get to choose your own tune.

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  • 2 weeks later...

3 coats of epoxy, sanded with 80g, then 120g.  Test fit of centerboard.  I will add one more coat of epoxy w/graphite powder to the centerboard.  The fit is just slightly sloppy.




3 coats of System 3 WR Epoxy Primer sanded with 400g by hand.  Then painted with 6 coats of System 3 WR-LPU.  All hot recoated within 12 hours of each other over a 2 1/2 day period.




I will paint the shear strake and #2 more completely after the decks are done and the rub rail, nameboards, quarterboards and decorative bead are added.  These details will be teak.  I am off to Disneyland with my grandson and family next week.  This will allow the paint to fully cure before I flip it to work on the interior and decks.  I have started on the main mast.  Pictures of that next post.

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May I ask you now many quarts of paint it took for you to achieve your 6 coats?  And what was the purpose of the primer, since WR-LPU can be applied w/o primer?  This is not a criticism.  I'm trying to work through all the whys and how muches before I start slinging a brush and roller.


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It took a about 1.5 quarts for the 6 coats.  I thinned the paint by about 5%.   I used the primer because the directions suggest for best results to use their primer.  I found it easier to get rid of the scratches left by the courser grits of paper needed to get rid of runs in the epoxy by priming and hand sanding.  I was able to sand the System 3 primer by hand very quickly and achieve an extremely smooth base for the paint.  Because the hull consists of 16 strakes instead of a couple broad surfaces like Graham's other designs I used a brush only.  It took some care to work out the paint to avoid runs but I don't think rolling the paint out would have been faster or better.  Keeping a wet edge with this stuff can be very difficult.  And by avoiding a step it was much easier.  I also found that painting inside, thus avoiding wind helped a lot too.  I am very pleased with the results.  If you look very close you can see that it was brushed vs. sprayed, but then I am building a classic design, so it does not bother me at all.  And I like the semi-gloss vs. high gloss finish because of this and that it is much more forgiving over the long haul than sprayed high gloss.


BTW Don, I am not easily offended.  Ask any questions you like.  Some one, myself included might learn something.

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