Joe Antin Posted June 6, 2011 Posted June 6, 2011 I am new to the forum. I am building the CS17 and have a large Andersen Bailer. I understand that it is external, but i was wondering if there are written instructions on installation. For instance if it is through-bolted, are the nuts exposed on the interior of the boat? I contacted the manufacturer but no response so far. Joe Quote
Ray Frechette Jr Posted June 6, 2011 Posted June 6, 2011 I rout out a recess so the plate is flush with the exterior skin of the boat and through bolt it with the nuts inside the boat. 1 Quote
Hirilonde Posted June 6, 2011 Posted June 6, 2011 Most do exactly what Ray has mentioned, and many locate the bailer under a seat or some where out of the way so as not to have it in the way of feet. 1 Quote
Joe Antin Posted June 7, 2011 Author Posted June 7, 2011 thank you both for your quick replies. Quote
Joe Antin Posted June 20, 2011 Author Posted June 20, 2011 do you bed the Andersen Bailer in dolphinite< sikaflex or 3M 5200?? Quote
Alan Stewart Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 do you bed the Andersen Bailer in dolphinite< sikaflex or 3M 5200?? I think we installed ours with 4200 but another good product is boatlife (lifecaulk). I don't see why you couldn't use dolphinite either. I don't think i would use 5200 since I don't think it would ever come out. Never used sikaflex but I think it is more of an adhesive than a sealant. Quote
Hirilonde Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 Like the 3M series of polyurethanes (5200, 4200) Sikaflex is a series of polyurethanes as well. They are all adhesive/sealants. Sikaflex 291 is a little less adhesive than 4200 and both are less adhesive than 5200. You really don't need much adhesive property in the bedding for a bailer. I agree with Alan that 5200 is way overkill and will damage the boat when it comes time to remove it. I even think 4200 is too much. Tensile strengths (adhesive strengths): 5200 = 700 psi 4200 = 300 psi Sikaflex 291-LOT = 200 psi Boatlife Lifecaulk = app 100 psi Dolfinite = virtually no adhesive strength, just a bedding I would use Sikaflex 291-LOT or Lifecaulk Quote
Joe Antin Posted June 21, 2011 Author Posted June 21, 2011 thanks - you confirm my thinking on this subject. Joe Quote
PAR Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 Use BoatLife caulk, 3M 101, Sikaflex 291 or other goo where the emphasis is on sealant, rather then adhesive. Dolphinite is an oil based bedding compound that will work, but very little "wiggle room". In other words it has low elongation properties. It works well under a cleat, screwed down to a wooden deck, but the bailer will probably need more flexibility then this. 1 Quote
Greg Luckett Posted August 17, 2011 Posted August 17, 2011 Darn, I cannot remember what I used on the Spindrift's bailer, but I did route it out to be flush with the hull, nuts to the inside, and under the c/b seat. I probably used Dow 5200. Quote
wkisting Posted August 17, 2011 Posted August 17, 2011 I installed mine like Ray suggested. I think I bedded it with BoatLife caulk, as I recall. I positioned it right under the mizzen thwart (right beside the keel plank, offset to the opposite side as the centerboard). In that position, there is little likelihood of tripping or kicking it because it is under the thwart. The actual lowest spot in the boat is probably about 3 feet ahead of that position in our CS20, but we use a small shower squeegee (about 10" wide) to "scrape" the bilge water back toward the open bailer where it is promptly sucked out along with any bilge dirt/debris. We need to have about 3 mph of boat speed or better in order for the bailer to suck the water out, otherwise it will seep water in instead. At about 6 or 7 mph of boat speed, the bow begins to rise onto a plane and then the bailer position under the thwart appears to be the exact lowest spot where all the water runs to and we don't really need to use the squeegee at that speed or higher. Before you install yours, I would finish the hull interior and then level the boat on a trailer (i.e., use the tongue jack to adjust the boat up or down until its waterline is leveled), then pour a cupful of water in the hull to see where it runs to the lowest spot. You'll want the bailer to be about at that spot or aft of it, in my experience. For the CS20, under the thwart seems ideal, but the CS17 may differ. Quote
wwbaginski Posted August 17, 2011 Posted August 17, 2011 has anyone put two self-bailers, each symetrically to the keel batten? My question is because my this year observation when the boat took splashes going upwind, heeled . Self bailer cant work while on winward bottom panel. Quote
Tom Lathrop Posted August 18, 2011 Posted August 18, 2011 has anyone put two self-bailers, each symetrically to the keel batten? My question is because my this year observation when the boat took splashes going upwind, heeled . Self bailer cant work while on winward bottom panel. Unless you allow the boat to heel more than it should, one bailer alongside the keelson should be enough. Some water will collect on the lee side going to weather in windy conditions, but not a critical amount and it will bail out on the next tack. That is the experience of most all racing sailors I know who sail harder than most people here. The side tanks of the BRS and CS boats also limit the free water on the lee side. Some open boats like Stars do have separate bailers near each chine.. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.