ecgossett Posted November 18, 2010 Author Posted November 18, 2010 The boat is glassed, 10 ounce side and bottoms, six in the front quarter... Not without it's share of errors, a few places where a hole needs drilled and some epoxy injected to fill bubble. Quote
ecgossett Posted November 24, 2010 Author Posted November 24, 2010 My board is 18 lbs with lead shot added before I glass and seal it.. I read something that the boards should be around 25 lbs... Is this true? Should I add some more weight? Quote
ecgossett Posted December 5, 2010 Author Posted December 5, 2010 Just flipped the boat back over... Still have some minor sanding to get the glass to blend perfectly near the bow... The paint currently is just the primer... - Edward http://coresound17.blogspot.com/ Quote
wkisting Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 Looking good... and that's a sharp looking crew. Your kids? You'll have lots of fun with them in the CS, I'm sure. Quote
ecgossett Posted December 6, 2010 Author Posted December 6, 2010 5 & 6.. I also have a two year old girl... The boys mostly have helped with the light sanding. Quote
ecgossett Posted February 3, 2011 Author Posted February 3, 2011 Issue with centerboard... I was measuring to put seat tops on today and realized I installed my centerboard trunk seven inches two far forward. When I installed it I assumed that the piece of plywood wall going down the center would touch the foward bulkhead... I never though about comparing seat measurements to make sure... Is this a critical long term problem, or can I live with it? - Edward Quote
PAR Posted February 4, 2011 Posted February 4, 2011 You may want to discuss this with Graham as the CE/CLP "lead" is now considerably smaller. I don't think there's much lead in a CS-17, but a simple fix would be to make the skeg much deeper aft, as much as the lowest portion of the rocker. This will pull the CLP aft, possably enough to balance the CE. Of course this is all speculation, without drawing up the differences between the two and seeing where things actually fall. Graham will know what lead he used and how much forward the CLP will move with your board where it is. You could leave it and sail with the board not as far down as designed, which will likely balance her up. You could add some lateral area aft (the skeg thingie). You could hack out the case, save the board, remake the case and bond it down where it belongs, plus repair the hole in the bottom planks. You could also move the mizzen a tad, but honestly other then fixing the primary cause (hack out the case and start again), you're putting a band-aid on it the symptoms and not really addressing the issue, with all the other "fixes". The helm is nicely balanced on the CS-17, so the worst that will happen with it as you have it, is she'll have some helm pressure, possably a good bit in stiff winds. This may make you think about reefing earlier, which isn't a bad thing. My only concern is in light air when she'll possably go lee on you, which isn't safe and feels weird as hell too. Quote
ecgossett Posted February 4, 2011 Author Posted February 4, 2011 I guess 7 inches is an easy fix.... The bottom may not match up well, but If I hook in the top plank/seat that should make it a lot easier. Quote
ecgossett Posted February 6, 2011 Author Posted February 6, 2011 Graham Barnes, I am sorry to hear of the mistake. I know how difficult the decision is to go back and undo a big job and do it over again, I would definitely take the trunk back out and reposition it correctly. If you do not, you will have a lot of weather helm or sail with a lot of centerboard rake which will cost you a lot in lee way. The CS17 is such a good sailing boat and very well balanced that it would be a pity to compromise her. The good news is that you built her and you can fix her. I have done a similar job. In high winds on Southern Skimmer I got too much lee helm so I cut the forward end of the trunk out and rebuilt it allowing me to move the board forward 3". I am very pleased with the new heavy upwind performance and am very glad that I did it. You may be able to cut the back of the trunk off and rebuild it back to the right place and reinforce a new pivot point in the correct position and leave the rest of the trunk in place. I decided to just cut the trunk out and move it, epoxy fillets and tape should fix any difference in height... Here are some photos.. I used the Ddremel multi-max with a half circle drywall-wood blade... This was my first experience with this tool and it was great. After trying unsuccessfully (painfully), use some other tools including a hand Japanese saw this turned out best and easiest. The reviews said that you can go through blades fast but I didn't see this problem and the entire job took under 10 minutes, after I bough the dremel. - Edward Quote
wkisting Posted February 6, 2011 Posted February 6, 2011 I think you made the right decision Edward. Better to fix it now than to find out later that it compromises performance in a way you can't readily compensate or live with. A small setback, but soon to be back on track. Looks like you chose a good tool for the job, also. Quote
Steve Day Posted February 7, 2011 Posted February 7, 2011 I've got the Craftsman version of that tool and it has been a lifesaver on the big boat and the Gar Wood project we are working on. The thing has paid for itself a couple of times already. Your use to cut out the CB trunk was similar to one of the cuts we did on the Gar Wood. It's a very cool tool! Steve Quote
ecgossett Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 Sail Prices Is $750.00 for 3 sails (including mizzen stays'l) for the CS17 a good price? This arrangement includes sails with bolt ropes, reef-points, and partial batons. Quote
JeffM Posted February 11, 2011 Posted February 11, 2011 Who's your sailmaker? The same suit for my CS20 cost a good deal more, if I remember correctly. Quote
ecgossett Posted February 15, 2011 Author Posted February 15, 2011 Who's your sailmaker? The same suit for my CS20 cost a good deal more, if I remember correctly. I'm currently building a mold to glass the seat hatch coamings. I have made each side of the channels 1/8" wider to account for fiberglass walls.. Was planning on using two layers of glass tape but would appreciate any advice on how others have done this... I noticed some did it form fitting to the hatch piece going through the CD of photos included with plans. V/R, Edward http://coresound17.blogspot.com Quote
ecgossett Posted February 19, 2011 Author Posted February 19, 2011 Back when I was putting the skin of the boat together I installed the inwale in two pieces butt-joined instead of scarfing. I didn't realize the inwale was intended to shape the boat by pulling in the job. Where the butt-joint was the sice was not gracefull and bulged out a little bit at the top. My fix involves installing a 10" beam that is 2 1/4" wide and 1 1/2" thick. I ran 1/4" 3 1/2" bolts through to hold the beams in place. This involved using a 7' bar clamp to pull both sides flush at the same time. It was also a two person job. Instead of epoxying as well as bolting, the beam is adjustable so I can loosen bolts appropriatly to give back the fair shape on the hull. Right now it is very straight for 10" along the beam line. Look at the center photo and you can see where it straightens. I put a block of wood on top to show how far in the deck will go in comparison to the block. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wTcudNAHzKs/TV8eulefu-I/AAAAAAAAMnU/VQNyYRMvpyo/s1600/100_1408.JPG Graham originally identified the problem over a phone conversation (I was lamenting about how hard getting the inwale bent in place was), and he said I was installing it backwords (from the stern, instead of from the bow), and it should have been scarfed so I would have more leverage etc. - Edward http://coresound17.blogspot.com Quote
wkisting Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 Hi Edward, You definitely don't want to pull a flat spot into the hull. I would think you could use another stringer (the same thickness as the original stringer) instead of such a large block and glue it on the inside spanning the butt join by about 12" to either side of the joint. The advantage would be that a smaller piece (clamped and then glued in place) should have similar flex characteristics and should yield a more natural/fair curve. Alternatively, you could cut a slight curvature into your hefty block so that when clamped tight it yields a fair curve. Depending on where you have this block located (I can't tell from the pics how far it is fore or aft in relation to the bow/stern), it might be in the right place to make a solid attachment point for oarlocks. Quote
PeterP Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 Edward, get rid of that ugly block. What you want to do is to scarf in a piece of invale. It is not that hard. Mark 2 ft either side of the hard spot and cut out the old invale at good 15:1 ratio - you will need a good easy slope to make this work. Clean out the old invale between the cuts down to the ply. Get a piece of new matching invale stock a few feet longer than needed. DON'T SCARF this. Get bunch of clamps and clamp the new piece in and see if it pulls out the hard spot. If it does- glue it in and do the other side. If not -cut another foot off both scarfs and see if that made a diference. Again -don't try to scarf this piece -it is best glued in there wild then trim it to correct width after the glue sets up. There are no hard rules on how much to cut out but four feet seems like a good place to start and you'll have to be the judge on how far to go with this. Good luck PeterP Quote
JeffM Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Peter, I guess I'm just lazy. Why shouldn't Ed go with his plan of loosening those big blocks until he has fair curves? I'd do so, trace the curve on paper and reverse to make sure both sides are the same, then glue&screw spare inwale pieces under the inwales crossing the butt to make it permanent without the blocks. Is it really that easy to scarf pieces into and inwale already in place? I can't imagine getting fair curves that way without the same sort of fiddling that he's already having to do. Quote
hokeyhydro Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Could go either way - the present course with fiddling until the curve is right, the suggested course of splicing in a scarfed piece to make the curve right. Whatever Ed chooses I hope he has learned a lesson: ALWAYS scarf the parts together to make a long enough piece BEFORE installing aforementioned piece into the boat structure. Caveat: Butt joining tiny cedar strips on the fly for a cedar strip canoe build is fine. Quote
ecgossett Posted February 20, 2011 Author Posted February 20, 2011 Could go either way - the present course with fiddling until the curve is right, the suggested course of splicing in a scarfed piece to make the curve right. Whatever Ed chooses I hope he has learned a lesson: ALWAYS scarf the parts together to make a long enough piece BEFORE installing aforementioned piece into the boat structure. Caveat: Butt joining tiny cedar strips on the fly for a cedar strip canoe build is fine. I thought about scarfing in but was worried with the existing pressures present, that the scarf wouldn't hold, or could create additional weak points.... I could just use the dremmel multimaster and cut my scarfs in. My only though is as long as the big block is hidden under the deck it's not to big a deal.... Quote
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