Don Silsbe Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Posted September 26, 2020 In case anybody’s actually following this build, I’m here to say that I have applied my second coat of white on the interior. I’m using Devthane, an industrial two-part polyurethane. It cost as much as Interlux Perfection, except the you get a gallon for your $80 instead of a quart. 1 Quote
Chick Ludwig Posted September 28, 2020 Report Posted September 28, 2020 Your "follower" says, "Lookin' good." 1 Quote
Don Silsbe Posted September 29, 2020 Author Report Posted September 29, 2020 I finished the sliding seat. It was a kit from Angusboats.com. It was definitely cheaper than a Piantedosi drop-in unit. ($299 vs. $650). Not shown is the outrigger and Concept 2 oarlocks. Stay tuned... 1 Quote
Don Silsbe Posted October 2, 2020 Author Report Posted October 2, 2020 Today, I flipped her over, and made most of the cuts for the keel and skeg. The line from the two looks “notchy”. Not sure what to do, since it looks ugly. The waterline is where the skeg meets the transom. I am reluctant to reduce the skeg profile, even though that is the logical solution. Thinking about a double-tapered shim underneath these parts where the skeg starts. Not sure. Suggestions? Quote
Don Silsbe Posted October 3, 2020 Author Report Posted October 3, 2020 Well, I checked the plans, and that notch is there by design. Furthermore, to make it a fair line, I’d eliminate 1/3 of my skeg. I’m leaving it alone. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted October 3, 2020 Author Report Posted October 3, 2020 I took the plunge today. I shaped the skeg, and glued it on. I did the same with the transition piece from the stem to the keel strip. I’ll plane down the transition piece, once the glue cures. Quote
Chick Ludwig Posted October 4, 2020 Report Posted October 4, 2020 Keep the bottom side down so no one will see the notchiness you don't like. Quote
Hirilonde Posted October 4, 2020 Report Posted October 4, 2020 I like the shaping of the trailing edge of the skeg. Don't want to have to row too hard Quote
Don Silsbe Posted October 4, 2020 Author Report Posted October 4, 2020 @Hirilonde— Me too. I would hate to hear that giant sucking sound, once I got ‘er up to about 50. The plans called for something similar, but the corner looked fragile. It wasn‘t going to take an impact well. I got the keel all glued on today. I’m encouraged. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. 1 Quote
Don Silsbe Posted October 10, 2020 Author Report Posted October 10, 2020 Top coat of epoxy is on. 1 Quote
Don Silsbe Posted October 15, 2020 Author Report Posted October 15, 2020 HELP!!! I have been waiting for three days for my top coat of epoxy to cure, and it is still gummy in spots. When I go to sand it, it rolls into cylindrical balls instead of creating dust. When I try to sand the chines, you can see them smear. What caused this? Not sure, but maybe it was the environment. I rolled this coat on during a rainfall on Sunday. I was “semi-outside”, as you can see by a photo below. On Monday, there was a slime all over the bottom, which I rinsed off (blush?). Could that be it? Maybe one of my batches had an off mix of epoxy/hardener. I really want to fair some spots and apply primer, but I’m afraid to do anything. I’m dead in the water. Any suggestions? Quote
AmosSwogger Posted October 15, 2020 Report Posted October 15, 2020 What kind of epoxy are you using? What have your temperatures been over the last few days? Quote
Aleksandr Posted October 15, 2020 Report Posted October 15, 2020 Try to warm up with a construction hair dryer, if the proportions of resin and hardener are not violated, it should work. Quote
Mike Vacanti Posted October 15, 2020 Report Posted October 15, 2020 There is really only 3 things that could cause the epoxy to not harden. 1. The temperature is too low. 2. The resin-hardener ratio was incorrect. How did you measure the resin and hardener? 3. The epoxy is defective. This seems the least likely culprit. Quote
Hirilonde Posted October 15, 2020 Report Posted October 15, 2020 Lots of unknowns here....... Is the entire top coat like this? Is it just the top coat? Was the entire top coat mixed as one batch? I had a section of coating on my Lapwing not cure properly. I scraped it off with a pull scraper, cleaned area with acetone and then did another coat. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted October 15, 2020 Author Report Posted October 15, 2020 It was several batches of Raka Low Viscosity, which I have used for all my glass work on this boat. I’m chalking it up to weather and maybe weird pumps. All the pumps Raka supplied are full stroke, so you have to do two pumps to one. Who knows? I might have gotten the mix wrong. Rest assured that I will pump j to a graduated cup from now on. I tried heat, to no avail. I ended up stripping it off with acetone. I’ll go over it with alcohol, once my head clears. Thanks for the input, everyone. You’re a wealth of info. Next time, I’m sticking with B&B epoxy. Well, time after next. Next time it’s a kit from CLC, which comes with MAS. That’s good stuff— I built a kayak with it years ago. Quote
Mark Rendelman hull 24 Posted October 16, 2020 Report Posted October 16, 2020 Set up a tarp over the entire boat and put a small heater under it and heat it for a day Quote
Don Silsbe Posted October 16, 2020 Author Report Posted October 16, 2020 @Mark Rendelman- I called Raka Epoxy, and they agree. Even if my mix was off, or I didn’t stir it long enough, it will only take longer to cure. So, I’m doing a little shake ‘n bake right now. Fingers crossed! Quote
Mark Rendelman hull 24 Posted October 17, 2020 Report Posted October 17, 2020 That’s good just don’t rush it you might have to do it for two days or so mark Quote
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