Mark Rendelman

Well! I had no idea that I would step on so many toes I do apologize if I got on somebody’s wrong side, Iam not a religious person by nature and to ask god to just bless America 🇺🇸 Was wrong of me , of course the entire world needs his blessings no mater their faith, at this time of illness and death. As for the extra help it was ment to keep individuals in one household busy I in no way would encourage any person or business world wide with lockdown and stay at home orders from there governments to break the law. Let’s hope that this ends soon and that we can get back to our so called normal lives. mark

I know at times like this we all hope for the best, but look at it this way now we have no excuse to put in extra time on our boat building projects and you might have extra help just sitting around with nothing to do. God bless America 🇱🇷 mark

looks unbelievable but how do put this thing together without finger prints everywhere on my build it looks like my iPad touch screen. lets hope for a quick resolve to this terrible coved 19 so we can get back to our normal life style mark

Thanks for the comments it’s always nice to know that the work I’am doing meets the quality of other much more experienced builders and that I, am on track to having a great looking boat mark

Hello again I have been busy finishing off the void under the chain locker and the forward storage locker all the surfaces have been coated with three coats of epoxy the first coat being cut with about 25% of acetone to enhance the penetration into the wood fibers, each coat of epoxy was sanded in between coats and then two coats of total boat single stage polyurethane paint. After all surfaces were painted I cleaned the edges down to bare wood again to get a good bond when I glued down the floor. The next thing will be to glue down the forward storage locker top. From this point I will be working on installing internal supports. As always any help will be greatly appreciated. mark

Build of #24 spent a couple of hours going over all the information out there on the internet and your recommendations and came up with a 50 watt semi-flexible solar.panel, 30amp charge controller, and a 35 amp-hour agm battery to start off my power supply if I need more storage the batteries are small enough I can add an additional one quite easily. The next thing will be the switch distribution panel, more time on the internet

Still not able to work on the boat much due to life happening, which gives me time to plan ahead with the electrical requirements of the boat. While I may not compete in costal events I still want to rig the boat for them anyway. The boat will have electric bilge pumps too fill and empty the ballast tank, she will also have all the standard running lights, with some interior lighting. All of the lights on the boat will be LED so they will be low amperage draws the bilge pumps will probably have the most draw. She will probably have some kind of GPS and radio. I do plan to use AGM deep cycle batteries but do not know how many amp-hours I should get? I will do as many others have done and install a solar panel on the front hatch cover to keep the charge up. The question I have is how many watt panel should I use and a good starting point for how many amp-hours the batteries should be given the requirements I have. As always I thank everyone for supporting me in my build of hull#24. IMG_0196.MOV IMG_0196.MOV

I have posted some photos of my progress and a further description what’s going on is in the other post I made on build of hull #24 as a reply to my own topic I still cant seem to figure out how to continue a topic and just add pages to it.

CS20mk3 hull #24 build Well Christmas and new year have come and gone I hope all is well with everyone, I have been busy out in the boat house, to solve the cold problem with building in the shop I built a make shift tent out of plastic sheet and use a MR heater to warm it. Its not hard to keep it at 64 or so. But I have a 220,000 btu heater being delivered at the end of the week this should heat the whole shop along with the wood stove. I have installed the cockpit sides and some of the major bulkheads so I can walk in the boat but even with that it still a little spooky feeling the hull flex under your feet. Once I have the cockpit sides glassed in I hope it will stiffen it up, after that I will be moving to the bow and working on completing those compartments and getting them sealed and painted the chain locker and the storage locker will get painted. Well I guess that’s all I have now and will post again when I have made some major progress.

HAPPY NEW YEAR well it’s a new year and a the beginning of a new decade best wishes to everyone and hope all of your dreams come true and your projects get completed as you want them to turn out .Good health to all and your loved ones. KEEP ON BUILDING , CALM SEAS, AND FAIR WINDS from my family to yours HAPPY NEW YEAR Mark Rendelman Hull #24

Hi, thank you for the reply mark

Build of hull #24 when you lay down the biaxial tape on cs 20 mk3 keel fillet I assume that the mat side goes down on the fillet. Please let me know if that is the proper application, I have never used this type of material before with a course weave on one side and os mat on the other, so just let me know mark

Since my last post I have made some progress I have glassed the center board trunk, wired the hull tight fit bh 1&2, also installed hanging knees, along with bh 3.at that point I removed bh 1&2 so I could apply the fillet in the bow then glassing according to the build sheet. After the bow glass job cures I will refit bh 1 and spot glue it in place, The next thing will be to remove the transom so I can place the scaffolding in the boat so I get to keel and start the fillet process iam sure this will take several days to complete. I don’t know why you can’t just cut a filler piece on the constant angle and glue it in I do plan to build floor slats to fit the cockpit floor anyway any feed back will be helpfully appreciated. mark