Steve W Posted November 28, 2018 Report Share Posted November 28, 2018 Don, I just reread what I wrote. It wasn't my best, but obviously you get the idea. You are doing the right think. I didn't put any kind of "quick" connectors into my 11N and I regret it. I may modify it, especially after I see how these new ones work. What is the material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted November 28, 2018 Report Share Posted November 28, 2018 This is a serious zoom in of photo to show the connectors. (1st photo) Aft piece is L shaped and mortised into the bottom creating a hook Fore piece is flat, is mortised flush to the bulkhead and has a space behind it mortised to allow the "hook" to slid in "Patches" are applied on the interior where mortises are done so that you don't end up with a hole. (2nd photo) The hardware itself is 1/8" SS flat stock cut, drilled and bent in the shop to Garry's drawings. It is bomb proof but susceptible to crevice corrosion, especially if left in the water like I did for 2 seasons. I like that the B&B stuff is plastic. Good luck fiddling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted November 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 I think it’s machined out of Starboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted November 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 @Hirilonde-- i love the boot stripe! Yeah, the Quick Connect system has a bunch of holes drilled through the nesting bulkheads below the waterline. By rights, I should drill each one oversized, fill with epoxy, and re-drill to size. I'm inclined to give 'em a coat of epoxy, and use polysulfide bedding compound or silicone sealer. After all, 99% of this dink's life will be out of the water, under a tarp in the back yard. All that drilling is mainly going to add variation in the final hole locations. Exposure to moisture is a secondary concern. (Opposing views are welcome here. It's not like making political comments on FB. There, they crucify you for disagreeing.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 Hey, guys, I think I just had an epiphany. I’m in the process of drilling and gluing. I did relent, and go with epoxy-lined holes, as you san see below. But here’s my thought: Wouldn’t it be incredibly easier to fit and fiddle the attachment of the Qhick Connect parts at this stage of the build, rather than after I have two hull halves to contend with? It might be worth waiting for my hardware. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 That seems logical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 Today, I went "up the mountain", and paid Chick Ludwig a visit. We brainstormed on this a bit. This evening, I got an email from Alan, and took the discussion a bit further. I believe I now have two good ways to proceed. Each have a few bugs to shake out, before I decide which direction to take. I'll have my parts in a week or so, and can get moving again. In the meantime, I might get started on my daggerboard trunk, daggerboard, and rudder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted December 4, 2018 Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 Yeah, we thought that two old codger brains added together were as good as one young brain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 I got a little bit done today. I clamped where I could, and shot screws (on the other side) where my clamps wouldn’t reach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 I rely heavily on this forum for feedback. I treasure your opinions. In that spirit, I will show you my overall plan for this boat. It is not intended to be a yacht tender. Instead, it will be for single-handed sailing, fishing, and rowing. In the future, grandkids might learn to sail using her. So, conventional pram seating isn’t as important as floation. And since I like to lay in the bottom of these boats (see photo), a section of floatation is conspicuously absent. The middle seat will be used only occasionally, so it is removable (for sailing comfort). Comments, please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 Looks like a good plan to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 I like that. I sail the same way on both my Sea Pearl and my S11N. Lounge mode for sure. I think adding the extra flotation forward is a good plan. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 Slow progress. Busy couple of days, including a blizzard and power loss. But life is good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 I think I need more of a taper on the trailing edge of the rudder. If I have a moment, I’ll work in that. But after all, it’s a dink. I’m not going to race it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted December 12, 2018 Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 31 minutes ago, Thrillsbe said: I think I need more of a taper on the trailing edge of the rudder. If I have a moment, I’ll work in that. But after all, it’s a dink. I’m not going to race it. Oh, sure. Unil that day you’re sailing around, having a blast, and then you see the OTHER Two Paw. Race on! Peace, Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted December 12, 2018 Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 Yeah, then you'll "paws" and reflect on your decision. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 I was reviewing the build photos of Graham's Micro. It looks like he used a hot melt glue gun for some of the "stitches". Am I right? Has anybody else tried that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 Don, I use anything that will hold the panels in place until I can get some epoxy into the joint. Just because we show the ties nicely spaced, you do not need to put in a tie if you do not need it. We will double up the wires in the forward most holes in the chine where there is a lot of force. The transom to bottom joint has no force at all so anything that will hold it together until the epoxy dries is good. Just use your judgement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 Why didn't I think of that!? Great idea.(That's why he is the "Master".) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 My “fiddlt bits” came in the mail yesterday. Boy, was I excited! I spent a good chunk of the day today locating and drilling holes. I think this is the way to proceed. Cross your fingers! @Hirilonde— I should have listened to you. The templates were nice and all, but the real parts are necessary. If for nothing else than determi i g the verticle position of the parts. @Steve W— the double-stick tape worked like a champ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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