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Thrillsbe

Building a Two Paw 8 for Trailer Camping

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Don, I just reread what I wrote. It wasn't my best, but obviously you get the idea. You are doing the right think. I didn't put any kind of "quick" connectors into my 11N and I regret it. I may modify it, especially after I see how these new ones work. What is the material?

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This is a serious zoom in of photo to show the connectors.  (1st photo)

 

Aft piece is L shaped and mortised into the bottom creating a hook

Fore piece is flat, is mortised flush to the bulkhead and has a space behind it mortised to allow the "hook" to slid in

"Patches" are applied on the interior where mortises are done so that you don't end up with a hole. (2nd photo)

 

The hardware itself is 1/8" SS flat stock cut, drilled and bent in the shop to Garry's drawings. It is bomb proof but susceptible to crevice corrosion, especially if left in the water like I did for 2 seasons.

 

I like that the B&B stuff is plastic. Good luck fiddling. 

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@Hirilonde-- i love the boot stripe!  Yeah, the Quick Connect system has a bunch of holes drilled through the nesting bulkheads below the waterline.  By rights, I should drill each one oversized, fill with epoxy, and re-drill to size.  I'm inclined to give 'em a coat of epoxy, and use polysulfide bedding compound or silicone sealer.  After all, 99% of this dink's life will be out of the water, under a tarp in the back yard.  All that drilling is mainly going to add variation in the final hole locations.  Exposure to moisture is a secondary concern.  (Opposing views are welcome here.  It's not like making political comments on FB. There, they crucify you for disagreeing.)

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Hey, guys, I think I just had an epiphany.  I’m in the process of drilling and gluing.  I did relent, and go with epoxy-lined holes, as you san see below.  But here’s my thought:  Wouldn’t it be incredibly easier to fit and fiddle the attachment of the Qhick Connect parts at this stage of the build, rather than after I have two hull halves to contend with?  It might be worth waiting for my hardware.  What do you think?

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Today, I went "up the mountain", and paid Chick Ludwig a visit.  We brainstormed on this a bit.  This evening, I got an email from Alan, and took the discussion a bit further.  I believe I now have two good ways to proceed.  Each have a few bugs to shake out, before I decide which direction to take.  I'll have my parts in a week or so, and can get moving again.  In the meantime, I might get started on my daggerboard trunk, daggerboard, and rudder.  

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I rely heavily on this forum for feedback.  I treasure your opinions.  In that spirit, I will show you my overall plan for this boat.  It is not intended to be a yacht tender. Instead, it will be for single-handed sailing, fishing, and rowing.  In the future, grandkids might learn to sail using her.  So, conventional pram seating isn’t as important as floation.  And since I like to lay in the bottom of these boats (see photo), a section of floatation is conspicuously absent.  The middle seat will be used only occasionally, so it is removable (for sailing comfort).  Comments, please!

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I like that. I sail the same way on both my Sea Pearl and my S11N. Lounge mode for sure. I think adding the extra flotation forward is a good plan.

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I think I need more of a taper on the trailing edge of the rudder.  If I have a moment, I’ll work in that.  But after all, it’s a dink.  I’m not going to race it.

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31 minutes ago, Thrillsbe said:

I think I need more of a taper on the trailing edge of the rudder.  If I have a moment, I’ll work in that.  But after all, it’s a dink.  I’m not going to race it.

Oh, sure.

 

Unil that day you’re sailing around, having a blast, and then you see the OTHER Two Paw.

Race on! :)

 

Peace,

Robert

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I was reviewing the build photos of Graham's Micro.  It looks like he used a hot melt glue gun for some of the "stitches".  Am I right?  Has anybody else tried that?vY_LpGHrNNG7yb7ORtZ1nRsLS6yerOFAuUSR7GwoMxRBpFRPrZpUgveHp3IFaA7BdTefCHpFwTn6mzZkmdUDurIDgBNa50BFCpWAmFh8WvKAuNWRZDWuAYBGAnLS0g7PDj0NnH1BdsfLxny_PKR7pbWbxH3gi50W9l2Ku8Kjfjzv41F7wWGrVIcG0u39CfizHys-TbUlQMsJI68ezn4GMdC21zT94ip8VIMqlvzmmBzol0cebGnMaY0u6hzM86I3AMzHZKQvPOjbJHHFlk36jQix4vAR1ykai1wNvvu56M8jeucO_aBGeT57smUeD2BApr0r3m_2E7rP5X0r4DzNpsFTKRbWbKryiPsKFJPOGd6kIJAnSfrlHDJqoNMpozlt9YmcPhnODKMGYsmNcvqdQdccIvI2311dO5Ihn0nUOLHQ7urUX838nN3-AJsEEiifBKMV3TDObFkMLTjPprtFc0U3YzmkVj9ekR9wfqfRTaA-y_i2Yo04vgVfTMYOLndbW6CBF5fju5kAAGelYmzV37H14ax2TFP59mbw62xkQUjdaWB6j_Etcn8hXxuUab2jpm1SNzL9_YZtuNB1tCGazzkyemiKBO5XUbdZcPqBBGA6XBE9ncAxxFO5Uu-ndUIVwq6qwBJz8OOcinykdQfKxyuod1I9esWfjcXVaDz1gHKaUA58gqtv16xxvluBFdY2oOMC6VfT30iXuw30aQ=w1588-h893-no

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Don,

 

I use anything that will hold the panels in place until I can get some epoxy into the joint. Just because we show the ties nicely spaced, you do not need to put in a tie if you do not need it. We will double up the wires in the forward most holes in the chine where there is a lot of force. The transom to bottom joint has no force at all so anything that will hold it together until the epoxy dries is good.

 

Just use your judgement. 

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My “fiddlt bits” came in the mail yesterday.  Boy, was I excited!  I spent a good chunk of the day today locating and drilling holes.  I think this is the way to proceed.  Cross your fingers!

@Hirilonde— I should have listened to you.  The templates were nice and all, but the real parts are necessary.  If for nothing else than determi i g the verticle position of the parts.

 

@Steve W— the double-stick tape worked like a champ!

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