Texas Spindrift 11N Build

[PlaneCrazy]

Ripped 12' strips of mahogany with 17 degree bevel.

 

[PlaneCrazy]

After cutting strips of mahogany for the gunwales, I had enough material left to duplicate the breasthook and transom knees. Hopefully this will allow me to leave these pieces bright when the rest of the boat is painted.

This gave me a chance to finally use the compound feature of my compound miter saw.

 

Between screws and a few clamps I think I got things situated well enough for the epoxy.

 

Not quite sure if the angle is correct, but it seems okay.

 

Breasthook in place with clamps removed. I think I will remove the temporary screws before installing the gunwales.

 

Mike

[PlaneCrazy]

I dug up every clamp I own and made a half-dozen more with wood and drywall screws. I installed the starboard side dry and then started on the port side. The two predrilled screws into the breasthook helped a lot, but it was still a challenge to get all three strips lined up. 

 

 

 

I left this to cure overnight. I tried to clean up the drips as much as possible but I think the underside of the gunwale has lots of extra epoxy. Maybe it will fill in any gaps that I have missed.

 

The next morning I did the starboard side. This time it went more smoothly.

 

I got all this done with no help. So now all my clamps are coated in epoxy.

 

Mike

[PAR]

Wrapping your clamps (and tools) with plastic packageing tape can avoid a lot of goo chipping later.  This can leave adhesive gum on them, when you remove the tape, but spirits can remove it easily enough. A plastic bag taped to your cordless drill, is a big help too.

[Walt S.]

Despite cleaning up underneath the gunwales, I still had to use a dremel and a sanding block to clean up the underside.  

Be sure to put enough permanent screws into the breathook and quarter knees as dictated by the plans.  I thought you were supposed to take all of the screws out and one of the gunwales broke free from the breasthook.