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Starboard

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Starboard last won the day on July 22 2015

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  1. I installed inspection ports in my nesting Spindrift so I’d have a more or less waterproof chamber to store a few lightweight items like a small first aid kit, the registration papers and the very rarely used AA battery powered navigation lights that clip on the bow and stern. I wouldn’t load them up as it would defeat the purpose of a flotation chamber. The inspection ports are pretty pretty cheap and easy to install, but you can always do it later if you choose.
  2. I made a piece for the bow of my Spindrift that may work and look nice on your boat.
  3. Looks great! It feels like the most harrowing moment of the build but after the cut it's so satisfying seeing the bow section happily sitting in the stern.
  4. I built extensions for the aft section as well as the forward section- the result is a bench along each side. This post has a few more photos that show my build process:
  5. I found a photo from last fall- the gunwales are a little banged up from the hard dock i rubbed up against a while ago, but it would probably be pretty easy to brighten it up with a little sanding and varnish. One of the reasons I built my nesting Spindrift is to go on the deck of my J/24 out to Catalina and zip around the island once I get there. It's hard to beat this view of Blue Cavern Point!
  6. The bright finish has held up fine. The boat is stored hanging from the rafters in the garage, and it hasn't seen a lot of use since i built it. I'd say the paint on the hull is in worse condition from the bangs and scrapes. The gunwales get as much contact as anywhere else, right? I'm really happy that I kept a few areas bright, but I don't think I would have liked the results if I'd tried to to the whole boat that way- too many imperfections. It the first boat I've built after all. Yours looks great so far. It's a lot of fun seeing another nesting spindrift getting built- every boat is just a little bit different.
  7. I also used mahogany for my breasthook and gunwales, with a strip of spruce in the middle. It's a fairly hard wood and looks great. Are you planning on leaving it bright?
  8. All I could think of while looking at the renderings was that is almost looked like a mini-Star. 14 feet vs 23 ft- change a few bulkheads and fully enclose for flotation when you capsize. Add hiking straps and thicker gunwales for comfort. You could use a Laser rig (cat rigged) like I did on my Spindrift or go nuts with a Bermuda rig like on a Capri 14.2. Maybe scale it up just a little to 16 or 17 feet to make it a little easier on the two man crew. It should still be around a hundred pounds- not including the rig, sails, daggerboard and rudder. Skinny and long it'll be a blast to sail, but it'll take a lot of skill and hiking out to keep it upright. Just for sport I'd add a motor mount for my cranky old Nissan 3.5 two stroke. You could still paddle like a canoe too. Do I have room in my garage to build something like this? Would my wife even remotely tolerate me building another boat? I did just finish completely renovating the guest bathroom for her... Hmm... Here's info about the Star: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Star_(keelboat)
  9. Looking good! The block plane ended up being my favorite tool during my build- there was nothing more satisfying than peeling off perfect curls of wood. It looks like you're getting close to pulling out the old saw and chopping 'er in half! That was a pretty fun day for me.
  10. Walt, I just used clear glossy spar varnish for everything I left bright, so the mahogany and spruce are their natural colors. I carved my own oars from some extra spruce I got. I found some basic oar plans online and modified them to what I wanted. The photo doesn't show it well but I carved the shaft in an octagonal shape. This photo was taken before I wrapped the handles with twine at the grip and the sleeve. I really debated making two part oars but in the end I did not. I made my Spindrift to stow on the small foredeck of my J/24, but there's no problem having long oars belowdeck alongside the spinnaker pole, etc. And once the Spindrift is assembled it's not a problem keeping the full length oars on the little boat either.
  11. Hugh, I shaped a piece of mahogany for the bow. Since we start bending the gunwales at the bow I was able to dry fit the strips with a fair amount of precision, which made shaping the bow piece easier. I doubt that this is the most common way, but I like the look and I wanted a nice hard piece of mahogany at the bow.
  12. I haven't installed curved stringers like that yet, so it's a question I have as well. I shaped the aft stringers with a plane, so in fact they weren't bent, they were a perfect fit. I could easily do the same for the forward stringers if I simply cut up the forward seats which are already pretty close to the correct shape, or I could cut strips and bend them like others have done. I'd like to avoid putting screws through the painted exterior hull seeing as how this is a retrofit.
  13. Your Spindrift looks great so far, keep up the good work! I cut my Spindrift before I did much to the interior. The outer hull shape was pretty much defined by then and didn't change much after that. It was also important to know exactly how much space I had for the aft benches/flotation chambers- the tolerances on my boat are very tight. I don't think I did a full fiberglass layer on the outside of the hull- just tape on the seams. Moment of truth! I made templates for the aft benches out of foam core and cardboard, and installed the stringers before the flat panels. I could then make templates for the removable benches. I built the daggerboard box in one piece to make sure it fit the daggerboard properly, and I cut the hole as close to the actual size of the daggerboard before I installed the box. You can also see the hole for the Andersen bailer.
  14. 1. Here are a few photos with the seats removed. I came up with a way to secure the seats with one line and a stopper knot through a bowline. It's keeps them down but they're not really strong enough to grab hold of to right the boat in a capsize or when climbing back in the boat after swimming- I use the centerboard trunk for that. 2. I used a long straightedge to figure out what was 'level' in the boat and where to place my blocks, but that was partly based on the plans from B&B. The boat didn't go in the water until it was done. Is it absolutely perfectly level when sitting in the water? I have no idea- it looks pretty good to me, however- besides, level will be different if there's an outboard vs. empty vs. sailing rig. One thing I will say is that there isn't enough flotation forward & high for my liking with the removable forward seats, which is why I'm going to build them in and enclose them at some point in the future. It may weight a little more, but that's OK by me. When the boat is on its side the forward compartment definitely floats, but it's too close to the centerline of the boat to keep the Spindrift up high in the water. The built-in compartments on either side of the bow would probably float it a foot higher and prevent a lot of water from scooping in when you right the boat. The stern flotation compartments are fine so far, but could be extended a little but more if needed. Other dinghys I've sailed have full waterproof compartments along their sides and they don't take on much water when you right them after a capsize. 3. The large deckplate in the forward storage are gives pretty good access to that compartment. I have a folding anchor, a long line, and a few other things I can stow in there. It's a pretty good deckplate, I like how easy it is to remove. It leaks a very small amount, but not enough to cause any trouble. I designed a special subframe to distribute the loads of the mast which is a little different from Graham's plans. It is bonded and screwed both to itself but also shaped precisely and also screwed and bonded to the hull as well. I made a custom mast collar from brass instead of wood in the plans. Will this setup take the same loads as the original plans? I'm not really sure, but I don't sail the Spindrift as much as I motor it- most of my sailing is done on the J/24. So far so good, however. 4. It turns out that the sailplan and rigging for the Spindrift are pretty close to that of a Laser, which I already own. I decided to save a lot of time and money and just use my Laser rig. Laser practice sails from Intensity are only $135 and $10 for battens- a true bargain. http://www.intensitysails.com/prsaforla.html A used Laser rig can be purchased on Craigslist for a couple hundred dollars. So rigging the sail is pretty fast for me, and all of the controls and lines on my Spindrift are run the same way I'm used to. Maybe some day I'll build my own rig and sew my own sail, but I doubt it. The fact I could use my Laser gear was one of my main deciding factors for choosing the Spindrift. You can't reef a Laser sail like you can with the one on the plans, but if you find the 'full' laser rig to be overpowered the Laser Radial rig is almost 2 feet shorter. It just uses a shorter lower section (the Laser mast is in two pieces) and a lot of people have both rigs and two sails since it's just one different piece. The limited rowing I've done has been fine where the seat is positioned. If anything the seat feels a little high to the oarlocks- the oars hit my knees sometimes. I'm not much of a rower, however, so I don't know what a great setup would be.
  15. I made a center seat for my 10N that also fits at the stern when sailing. The side seats are removable but I'll be replacing the forward seats with built in waterproof compartments as the boats swamps too much when you capsize in sailing mode. It doesn't sink, but it sure takes on a lot of water. The built in seats will keep the sides floating higher when the boat is on its side. and won't scoop in as much water when bringing it up. The photos aren't fantastic but you get the idea. The center seat is shaped to fit in the stern, but sits on top of the side seats in the middle position.
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