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Starboard

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Starboard last won the day on February 7

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  1. If you're still trying to track down a Laser rig I'd go where the Lasers are- maybe a sailing club, yacht club or the like. I got my the Laser spars I have from someone at the yacht club who had an extra rig. For very cheap too. I often see old Lasers posted online around here that are pretty much complete including an old rig for around $200. The hull might be trashed but the spars look just fine. A brand new sail can be had very inexpensively if you buy a non-official sail from Intensity or one of the other 'practice' sailmakers. FYI the difference between the full size rig and the smaller Radial rig is the bottom section of the mast- it's about 60cm shorter more or less, so even if all you can find is a full size rig it can very easily be cut down the the smaller Radial size. The top section and boom are the same. Good luck finding the rig.
  2. These are some of the photos I took during the build process. I slightly modified the design of the flotation chambers and benches to be more symmetrical and have a more sweeping line from fore to aft. I also designed a bracket to mount the benches that both hold them in place and allows for a line to tie them in place. Like I was saying before, I plan on replacing the forward benches with flotation chambers identical in design to the aft bench/chambers to bring up the side flotation level when it's capsized. It'll be a lot closer to the non-nesting version which has flotation along both sides of the hull. The idea of removable bench in the forward section is nice, and it makes stowing all the parts easier, but I want an easier capsize recovery. I also slightly modified the design of the rowing bench and made it just the right size to stow in the stern while sailing or motoring. It's held in place by two small wooden nubs in the stern, and by the same cord that holds it in place when it's in the rowing position. It's very convenient and pretty much assures that I'll bring it along every time.
  3. According to the specs the Tohatsu 4 stroke is 59 pounds. The 4hp is identical to the 6hp- mine started as a 4hp but I swapped the carb for the 6hp version, which has a slightly wider throttle. It's still a bit of a handful getting it from the J/24 bracket to the stern of the Spindrift- but next time I may build a hoisting bridle and use the halyard to support some of the weight. I previously used a 5hp 2 stroke which was about 45-48 pounds with on board fuel. It was still a challenge to move it around. I really like the idea of having one outboard serve two purposes. I really don't use it often for sailing, but knowing it will get used on the dinghy gives it double the value.
  4. I don't really know what the top speed is- I haven't really pushed it. I probably putter along at 6-7 knots. And with the high thrust prop I have on it for the J/24 I doubt it would get on a plane. Keep in mind the Tohatsu 6hp is identical to the 4hp except for the carburetor, which has a slightly wider throttle. My motor started as a 4hp but I upgraded to a 6hp throttle. At lower RPMs the performance is pretty much the same. Previously I've powered the Spindrift with a 2 stroke 3.5 Nissan made by Tohatsu and a 2 stroke 5hp Mariner, also made by Tohatsu. They were also used on my J/24 but were a little underpowered for that use in adverse currents, etc. so I upsized a little bit. I liked them power wise on the Spindrift except for the 3.5 which had no neutral setting- it was pull and go. Made for some exciting launches from the dinghy dock. One issue while motoring is water splashing in through the daggerboard slot. I cut a piece of unused foam from a camera case to fit perfectly in the top of the slot and that took care of the splashing. Next time I take the Spindrift out with the 6hp I'll bring my old waterskis and see if I can get up- that would be a very worthy photo on this forum! This photo is the Spindrift hauled up on a deserted rocky beach while exploring Catalina. That pretty much sums up why I built the boat.
  5. I built my Spindrift 10n to fit in a very small space in my garage. It's set up with a modern Laser rig with controls for outhaul, cunningham, main sheet, etc right where they would be on a Laser. My benches are optimized to be ideal for both sailing and rowing (and motoring too!) I have a hiking strap in the sole and it handles great with two people in a breeze. I designed a modified version of the benches that is easily removable and maintains the look of a continuous line from bow to stern. The aft benches are also symmetrical in the sense that either bench will fit on either side in whatever orientation you place it. It's a little hard to explain but makes rigging fast and easy. I also designed the center rowing bench to perfectly fit in the stern when sailing. It's a very small detail but makes a difference when you have so little space to work with. The one thing i would (and will) change is the forward benches. Right now they are removable but I plan enclosing them so they have more side flotation when you capsize. The forward flotation chamber is just too small to keep the most of hull out of the water, and when you right the boat is scoops up a lot of water and swamps the boat. In choppy conditions it's too much to remove even with a good sized bucket. The Spindrift is a great boat and a lot of fun to build.
  6. I have a 6hp Tohatsu I use for both my Spindrift and my J/24 sailboat. Obviously we sail whenever we can on the J/24 but there have been plenty of times when the wind has died coming back from Catalina and we would rather motor than drift for hours. We can easily motor at 5-6 knots with the 6hp Tohatsu. It's a 15" shaft which is great on the Spindrift. On the J/24 we have a height adjustable auxillary motor mount that also works for a 15" motor. On a sailboat you can lock the tiller on the outboard and steer with the sailboat tiller- I'm not sure how that would work on a powerboat. I picked up the Tohatsu on Craisglist for about $500- it's a 2005 4 stroke, and I made sure to get a high thrust prop for it- sometimes they're called elephant ear props. It's meant to push slow heavy loads that won't be planing, which is perfect for the J/24. I accept that maybe the Spindrift will be a little slower as well, but it's not really a planing hull either. I recently acquired an old Boston Whaler 15 Sport, and you better believe I'll be rigging it with an aux motor mount for the 6hp Tohatsu. Just knowing that you won't be stuck out there is worth a lot.
  7. I built a Spindrift 10n to use as a tender on a pretty small J/24 for cruises from Marina del Rey to Catalina in Los Angeles, California, so no long distance voyages. The nice thing about a nesting dinghy compared to a Zodiac or other inflatable is how fast you are ready to go when you arrive at your location. While I usually have help dropping each half overboard, I've have done it by myself a few times as well. I hop in and join the two halves while in the water- I built mine so that there are no holes below the water line- it connects with two stainless steel brackets I designed. I also put a metal keel strip on so I could drag it onto rocky beaches. As for sailing, I simply re-used my old Laser rig, which is very similiar to the plans anyway. If you build it with a Laser rig in mind you can save a huge amount of time, especially if sailing it will be just for fun. I love how the Spindrift motors as well as rows- I go much farther than I ever did in the old 9' roll up Zodiac. I have a 6hp Tohatsu which is the outboard for both the J/24 as well as the Spindrift and I'm very pleased with its performance on the Spindrift. It's also the coolest looking boat at the dinghy dock, you'll always get a lot of questions about it. Thanks to Graham for designing such an amazing little boat.
  8. I chose to use my Laser rig as well. It's a full sail, though, since I don't have a Radial lower section. In a breeze the full Laser rig is tough handling by myself- I capsized after struggling with it for a while and the nesting version just doesn't have enough side flotation in the bow to keep the hull far enough out of the water to prevent it from scooping in a ton of water and pretty much fully swamping the boat. Of course I was probably taking risks on a very windy day that most wouldn't go out in- I assumed I'd just sail it like my old Laser. I plan on building in permanent forward benches/flotation chambers to keep the bow up in a capsize. That will replace the removable benches I designed but will still allow it to nest just fine. Using a Laser rig saves a lot of time and lets you get it on the water sooner. I pretty much rigged it just like a current Laser with the outhaul and cunningham brought down to the base of the mast, through two blocks, and cleated close to the daggerboard. I also have the mainsheet pretty close to where it would be on a Laser- though I did add a cleat on the main block more like my J/24. I have a tiller extension and hiking straps in the cockpit too. I've sat up on the gunwale plenty of times to hike out but it's not the most comfortable thing to do. I've since sold my Laser and while I had extra spars for the mast I didn't have an extra boom, so I may make one from spruce for fun. Or just dig around the scrap pile at the yacht club and see if there's an extra Laser boom in there. That's probably pretty likely. I love the idea of using the Nidaplast and CF for the hull, plus a little wood for fair measure. You'll have to post some photos carrying around each half of the hull in each hand showing off how light it is. Good luck with the build. -Starboard
  9. I installed inspection ports in my nesting Spindrift so I’d have a more or less waterproof chamber to store a few lightweight items like a small first aid kit, the registration papers and the very rarely used AA battery powered navigation lights that clip on the bow and stern. I wouldn’t load them up as it would defeat the purpose of a flotation chamber. The inspection ports are pretty pretty cheap and easy to install, but you can always do it later if you choose.
  10. I made a piece for the bow of my Spindrift that may work and look nice on your boat.
  11. Looks great! It feels like the most harrowing moment of the build but after the cut it's so satisfying seeing the bow section happily sitting in the stern.
  12. I built extensions for the aft section as well as the forward section- the result is a bench along each side. This post has a few more photos that show my build process:
  13. I found a photo from last fall- the gunwales are a little banged up from the hard dock i rubbed up against a while ago, but it would probably be pretty easy to brighten it up with a little sanding and varnish. One of the reasons I built my nesting Spindrift is to go on the deck of my J/24 out to Catalina and zip around the island once I get there. It's hard to beat this view of Blue Cavern Point!
  14. The bright finish has held up fine. The boat is stored hanging from the rafters in the garage, and it hasn't seen a lot of use since i built it. I'd say the paint on the hull is in worse condition from the bangs and scrapes. The gunwales get as much contact as anywhere else, right? I'm really happy that I kept a few areas bright, but I don't think I would have liked the results if I'd tried to to the whole boat that way- too many imperfections. It the first boat I've built after all. Yours looks great so far. It's a lot of fun seeing another nesting spindrift getting built- every boat is just a little bit different.
  15. I also used mahogany for my breasthook and gunwales, with a strip of spruce in the middle. It's a fairly hard wood and looks great. Are you planning on leaving it bright?
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