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Everything posted by lattenkracher

  1. Hi Bignose, they should actually be identical. Most people mount the plywood coaming so that the two bottom rings pinch the skin. So the discrepancy should probably be barely noticeable afterwards as long as you get the screws through all the rings cleanly. The upper ring should always stand so much over the middle one that your spraydeck has a good grip all around.
  2. Hi Bignose "This bracket is to be mounted on the top of the Frame locatet at 8`2". It´s purpose ist to support the underside of the Coming when you push donw on it." This Explanaition and some additional Information is noted on the Vardo Plans, sheet 2.
  3. Hi, this is an 1:20 Model of an Vardo with extra inserts for Hatches. You can see the final full scale Boat in this Post: the seam line is done asymetrical on the edge of the Gunwale
  4. Hi Garrett, what kind of Fabric is this ? I glue Polyester Fabric with "Sabacontact 70t". I have heard glueing Nylon is not as easy. I have glued a long cut. It is like new, but i have glued it from inside, where no Coating is on the surface of my fabric. I think you have to make some tests.
  5. HI Sailormon, here you can see my results by using an coated polyester and an synthetic resin varnish: https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11660-vardo-launch-in-bavaria/?tab=comments#comment-107993 + durable glueing (stern / bow), or after scratches + hot shrinkable + not hygroscopic * shiny finish, people do not realize it is an SoF -relatively heavy, applyed many layers of resin - i think it could be more durable (e.g. scratches) so i decidet to try next time an uncoatet ballistic nylon and applying an urethan coating - we will see, i am very interestd to hear (and see) about your experiences.
  6. Very Nice! Always liked the beauty of the pure frame!
  7. I found another photo from summer. I hope it can clarify how I solved the problem: Pad 1 is glued to the underside of the coaming, Pad 2 to the side of the beam. You can find the right position by rowing in the boat and looking where your knees touch the respective parts. (Lake Constance - Bodensee)
  8. HI HBREW, i have had glued microfoam pieces (3/4" thickness) on the stringer and on the coaming where they have contact with the knees: That works pretty good for me and gives me a tight and comfortable sitting position. P.S. I can take some Photos if you like to see
  9. for an longer tour, i have alwyas an "Manual Kayak Bilge Pump" with me ..
  10. Yes you are right, i have lashed them on top of bracket 8.2, (drilled a hole in the upper center of the bracket). I didnt use the addition support brackets. For the visual appearance, i think its very impotant to make those deck beams not to short. I saw some kayak where the deck beam ends bevor it leaves contact with the skin and then you get (IMHO) ugly bumps into the skin. I think the bow of an laminatet beam/bracket can vary widely, so you have to decide from time to time if you want to go over or under that .
  11. Hi HBREW, I would be interested in Jeff's opinion on this. I have terminated them under the Coaming: I think this is a good choice for stabilitiy and visual appearance.
  12. Hi, please measure for all edges (lashings) the distances beetween the frames - they must be equal for each segment! Are they all equal ?
  13. Hi John, i think a picture could help to understand your Problem. Probably a wedge could be the solution ? I have used some wedges to correct the position of the coming after covering.
  14. Hi i have tried out different types auf senew, finaly this one was good: https://www.lederwerkzeugladen-chiemgau.de/1001-00-Wachsgarn-Kunstsehne-braun-teilbar I think i have used two or three reels. The paint i have used was "Wilckens Boot & Yachlack" but it is no as durable as i hoped. I think i try finding some Ureatan/Coelan Coating next time.
  15. Hi, purchaseing spruce without knots is the real competition :) I recommned using good quality Tungoil (Chinaöl) for impregnation, 1liters gives 2 or 3 layers. Have fun!
  16. HI kayak_building_with_fir, i build last Winter a Vardo in Europe using spruce, Gunwales: 15x38mm Stingers: 15x25mmmm Frames: 12mm Plywood DIN BFU / AW 100 weight of the ready made boat: ~19Kg including Heavy fabric, Heavy Orbix hatches and many coating layers I Think with light fabric and without hatches the boat has had neary 15Kg (30 lbs) the Boat was used nearly 200km (120 Miles) this summer on lakes and rivers . greatings ..
  17. Hi Brendan. i build an Vardo with hatches. (Wilderness Orbix)) - they look ugly - they made the kajak heavier - they are expensive - they made the skinnig much more worse But I would never want to do without hatches: I use them constantly, for provisions, clothes, camping gear etc. In my eyes it is worth it.
  18. Sure It was my first SoF Project, but i found an experienced SoF Builder who was very Kind to give me many usefult hints. The fabric ist one of his hints. i have used "Novely Oxford 600D" it is waterproof so it could be used without coatig, but i never tried. Here you can see how it looks before "ironing" (You can also see that i will do an asymmetric sewing on the edge of the gunwale) It is not that flexible, so i have used "cut and glue" on stern and bow. It can easy and durable glued with "Sabacontact 70 T"
  19. my english is a bit rusty, I hope my explanation is understandable i have used orange fabric: applied transparent coating: applied adhesive letters: applied black coating: remove adhesive letters: The "M" is already removed, the "o" is not yet ... other side: "M" isn´t removed, "o" and "r" are already done, the "o" needs some cleaning. I have used cotton swab and paint thinner ready: finaly applied a new layer of transparent coating:
  20. COVID-19 changed every thing: But finaly the Launch happend. The Kayak performs as great as expected. Thank you for your great Design.
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