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JohnAsa

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  1. I sewed on the skin, fairly tight, but not super tight, as I felt that my super-tight skin caused the frame to bend on a previous attempt. When complete there were a few small wrinkles that came right out with heat. Then I applied my first coat of Rust-Oleum with about 15% thinning. The next morning the skin is all wavy! I tried applying a little heat after the paint was fully dried. the waviness disappeared for a bit, then came right back as the polyester cooled. The waves are perpendicular to the keel running pretty much the length of the boat. Any suggestions or
  2. I used Oak and WR Cedar in my coaming. cut to around 3/8 inch and steamed. seemed to work okay. takes a boat-load of clamps, and I still had to fill some gaps with epoxy. But the results look pretty good for the two that I have built.
  3. Hi folks, can someone tell me *when* I should be skinning my laminated coaming? Should attach the skin first, then work towards the front and rear? Or should I do the other first, then do the coaming. I'm using polyester. This wasn't quite clear to me from the books.
  4. Hey thanks for the idea. I decided to remove the skin and get new fabric. I'm using the 9 oz. polyester, which worked great on my FreeB-12. Here is what I'm going to change. First of all, I re-installed the brackets on my strong back and ensured that the frame was straight using a string suspended above on the centerline. Next, I removed the sinew on the bow plate, made sure that the gunwale and stringers are as flat as possible, then re-attached with sinew. THEN I put in a 1/4-inch dowel at the point there the gunwale joins the bow plate. I plan to
  5. I finished skinning my Ravenswood, and turned it over to find that the keel, bow and stern ended up twisted to one side. Almost 4-5 inches at the bow. going to get new fabric and and start over. What do I need to do in order to ensure I don't get that twisting? Do I need to re-tie my joints? Any other suggestions for ensuring the frame stays straight? I am using the double-corded stitch, and I fear that maybe I am giving too much space on one side causing a twist. I know this method creates tremendous force on the frame (causing gunwales to bend
  6. Jeff - http://www.kudzucraft.com/web/adding-hatches When I look at this page, the pics are missing. I'm a pretty visual learner. Is there additional content? thanks!
  7. Andy, that's Brilliant! thank you so much. Will try this next time. Jeff, I think one of my end-plates is where the bend is. I think having the squares on the end-plates would help avoid that situation. Thanks for the advice on leaning. I thought it was the opposite. You will note the voice saying I had a bit of a list, and the pull was to the opposite side of the list. I was sitting about 1-2 inches to the right of center. I'll need to review to see if that makes a difference.
  8. Thanks Jeff, I'll hold off. USPS says my plans arrive on Friday, so I'll work on forming the coaming over the weekend.
  9. After I finished covering, I realized that one of my frames protrudes a little beyond the keel. Yeah, I know, rookie mistake! Is there a way to fix this without completely re-covering the boat? thanks!
  10. I have been using 80 lb braided fishing line. only concern is that when I am using my heat gun to shrink, the fishing line can melt, so be sure and shield it when shrinking your skin!
  11. Just saw this. I'm so thankful for the good results for you!
  12. Glad to help. PS - my wife loves the FreeB-12 - nice and stable, very light, paddles easy.
  13. Rustoleum did great for me. 15% thin first coat. 3 coats on bottom, 2 on top. no leaks.
  14. Carl, I just finished the FreeB-12 and made the assumption that the bottom was flat, except for 116" and kept them at the same height. not sure if that was correct. Based on my experience, I suggest adding a bracket for the bow and stern (1/2" thick) to maintain alignment. Because they don't have the same structures as those in the book for squaring the bow and stern, I also recommend taking extra effort to secure the gunwale and stringers, as I found it very easy for the bow and stern to get twisted, especially during covering. My FreeB has a tendency to pull
  15. I just ordered the Ravenswood plans, but want to get a head-start on building my coaming. Does it use the same coaming shape/dimensions as the Vardo in Jeff's book? thanks!
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