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About lattenkracher

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    BY Germany
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    Maker / IT

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  1. HI Sailormon, here you can see my results by using an coated polyester and an synthetic resin varnish: https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11660-vardo-launch-in-bavaria/?tab=comments#comment-107993 + durable glueing (stern / bow), or after scratches + hot shrinkable + not hygroscopic * shiny finish, people do not realize it is an SoF -relatively heavy, applyed many layers of resin - i think it could be more durable (e.g. scratches) so i decidet to try next time an uncoatet ballistic nylon and applying an urethan coat
  2. Very Nice! Always liked the beauty of the pure frame!
  3. I found another photo from summer. I hope it can clarify how I solved the problem: Pad 1 is glued to the underside of the coaming, Pad 2 to the side of the beam. You can find the right position by rowing in the boat and looking where your knees touch the respective parts. (Lake Constance - Bodensee)
  4. HI HBREW, i have had glued microfoam pieces (3/4" thickness) on the stringer and on the coaming where they have contact with the knees: That works pretty good for me and gives me a tight and comfortable sitting position. P.S. I can take some Photos if you like to see
  5. for an longer tour, i have alwyas an "Manual Kayak Bilge Pump" with me ..
  6. Yes you are right, i have lashed them on top of bracket 8.2, (drilled a hole in the upper center of the bracket). I didnt use the addition support brackets. For the visual appearance, i think its very impotant to make those deck beams not to short. I saw some kayak where the deck beam ends bevor it leaves contact with the skin and then you get (IMHO) ugly bumps into the skin. I think the bow of an laminatet beam/bracket can vary widely, so you have to decide from time to time if you want to go over or under that .
  7. Hi HBREW, I would be interested in Jeff's opinion on this. I have terminated them under the Coaming: I think this is a good choice for stabilitiy and visual appearance.
  8. Hi, please measure for all edges (lashings) the distances beetween the frames - they must be equal for each segment! Are they all equal ?
  9. Hi John, i think a picture could help to understand your Problem. Probably a wedge could be the solution ? I have used some wedges to correct the position of the coming after covering.
  10. Hi i have tried out different types auf senew, finaly this one was good: https://www.lederwerkzeugladen-chiemgau.de/1001-00-Wachsgarn-Kunstsehne-braun-teilbar I think i have used two or three reels. The paint i have used was "Wilckens Boot & Yachlack" but it is no as durable as i hoped. I think i try finding some Ureatan/Coelan Coating next time.
  11. Hi, purchaseing spruce without knots is the real competition :) I recommned using good quality Tungoil (Chinaƶl) for impregnation, 1liters gives 2 or 3 layers. Have fun!
  12. HI kayak_building_with_fir, i build last Winter a Vardo in Europe using spruce, Gunwales: 15x38mm Stingers: 15x25mmmm Frames: 12mm Plywood DIN BFU / AW 100 weight of the ready made boat: ~19Kg including Heavy fabric, Heavy Orbix hatches and many coating layers I Think with light fabric and without hatches the boat has had neary 15Kg (30 lbs) the Boat was used nearly 200km (120 Miles) this summer on lakes and rivers . greatings ..
  13. Hi Brendan. i build an Vardo with hatches. (Wilderness Orbix)) - they look ugly - they made the kajak heavier - they are expensive - they made the skinnig much more worse But I would never want to do without hatches: I use them constantly, for provisions, clothes, camping gear etc. In my eyes it is worth it.
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