Kudzu

Things change and my methods have changed over the years. But by all means start at the coaming and work to the ends. Much more forgiving. If you star at the end and don't get the sided even you have a bunch of fabric to deal with an no choice but bunch up and sew in a wrinkle(s).

Fact is it is not a an easy one to sew. Best method is do the bow first to gain that experience. Sew from the coaming to the stearn. Once you get the fantail you just have to do small stitches and work very methodically. Paying lots of attention to what you are doing. Make sure that you get the fabric even on both sides as you stitch. Once you get to the very back you will be able to pull it a little tighter might pull some wrinkles out. Shrinking will remove some but it is just tricky to sew and patience is your friend.

Lokos great! Anxious to see the finished product.

Sorry, I was traveling over the Holidays and missed this. Since you ordered a kit I am confused why you are asking about getting the curve right? It came with the laminated beam. Have you tried to just put in place and see how it fits? But the center deck beam goes under and the outer two on top.

Seats "traditionally" are mounted under the gunwales and hang on bolts with spacers from the gunwales. They offer minimal structural reinforcements. I have notched the frames and put a strip of wood to let the seats rest on. There are lots of options as long as they are secure. Yes. Assuming the gunwales, breast hooks and at least a center thwart are in place if should be no problem. It will flex some but it is supposed too. Normal people don't have 75 clamps???? I thought everyone had that many. 🙂

On the plans I included a diagram showing the beam layout and just realized I didn't put it on my shop copy. I toss it in the box with the kit. I will get that added to the shop copy so this doesn't come up again.

Coaming restson ONLY on the lam beam and the rear of the boat. It does not tough the side beams. It fits just like those shown in the manual. Side beams go under the lam beam and are notched to fit. There is your problem. Is that a kit I made? If so it explains some of the confusion.

I am TDY so not where I can get to my photos but at the front I cut them just long enough that they end below the skin. Stretch some t-shirt material over the frame and you see where the beam looses contact with the skin. I cut it just past that. Yes is goes on top of the lam beam and it is fitted the same way. But it is hard to use the t-shirt method on the coaming.

No, the client just like this better so he gets what he wants. It is actually more work but it does have a cool look.

FRAME 6' 0" Thanks for pointing that out so I could add it to the patterns.

No surprise. It takes a lot put a hole in one. I am guessing by what you said that you did not round the ends of the seat stringers? An exposed blunt end is more susceptible to damage than anywhere else. I need to add a note on the plans and clarify that. I thought there was something in the manual but I am learning most people do not read the manual very closely. So it is better to put it on the plans.

I am building a SHAD for a client. I have been wanting to video a build from start to finish but haven't had a Commision in s while and the last thing I need is another kayak! So I jumped on this and ordered a inexpensive video camera and I going to document the whole thing from start to the day I launch it. Maybe even when we turn it over to the client? I will update this thread as I add new Episodes. PART 2 PART 3 PART 4 BONUS VIDEO Part 5 Part 6 PART 7 PART 8 PART 9

Likey both are to blame. GP's are notoriously wet paddles! And deck seams are near impossible to make totally watertight for me. Boat looks really good in white too.

Looks like we overlooked the notes when i redesigned the frame. so yea, that is little long. I am about to start to assemble the SHAD in the shop this afternoon of tomorrow morning. I can verify on the boat what it needs to be but you need 1"-1.5" past the frames. Just enough to drill the holes to lash the seats in the place. Don't hold me to this but I think 24" is about right. If you can't wait just measure and add the extra.

I don't have any plans, I just made some patterns I used to trace the outline.