Kudzu

Looks great! Since you bought those plans I have made a couple of small changes. One is the frame under the rear of the coaming now has a center brace cut in the frame. I found after a couple of years of regular use the plywood started to weaken and eventually collapsed. You can make a simple brace that will wedge between the keel and the deck. I just cut a couple of slots and made it snug fit. Works good and will save issues down the road. You can remove it if you need access to the rear space too. As for the coaming support, since you did a laminated coaming you can probably get along fine without it. I don't use them in mine but of course that will depend on how strong you coaming is. How much spring back it has.

Did not think about it till seeing you photo, but last ones I did were with the old fabric which had a loose weave and was easy to more around to conform. I don't have any good suggestions without seeing it person. I do remember the first one I built I ended up putting a seam horizontally along the fantail. I will think on this but not sure I have a good idea. New fabric may not be a good choice for this boat.

I always sew mine. It takes some patience to get it right but it can be done.

This is the reason I never built a traditional boat. They are built by eye, not by plans (for the most part). There isn't a good easy way to build two exactly alike boats. Fuselage frame may not be identical but they will be extremely close. And no, no longer doing classes. Last one I tried to put together all but one student backed out. Just hard to put on a class for a price people are willing to pay. So I sold off all the tools and supplied I used in the classes.

I have not read about bledding fingers but if you follow my method for sewing on the skin it won't be a problem. I have a video(s) up showing how I sew on the skin. Use the thread to pull the skin tight and a dowel to pull the thread.

Even I am always amazed at the weight of the frame. Of course the skin and paint will bring that up but even so they are so easy to handle compared to Tupperware boats.

In the 12 years that VARDO plans has been available I have never been asked that question. Sounds like you caught a 12 year old mistake to me. Plans list quantity for all three (even though it does appear only two are needed) Deck beams are listed on the plans and long enough. You don't have to waste those, just cut a scarf and glue them up to length needed. I do it all the time. Never built a boat that didn't have a few scarfs in the stringers.

BINGO!! Thank you. After reading it the only real restriction for me is the battery can not be directly under orover the gas tank. I wasn't planing on that so not an issue and another Internet know-it-all put to rest.

Got to be a member.

I don't frequent this group often and probably should. Restoring a '62 CC Sea Skiff and need to relocate the battery. Existing space is VERY tight, Was located in the bilge. I can find a battery that will fit but there is no way to put in a box and I really want to do that. So I need to relocate. Tons of room under either of the front seats. But I am leaning toward putting it aft, under the rear seats. It is large open space with super easy access. The gas tank is located behind the seat. 30 gallon galvanized tank. Battery would be adjacent to it and with all the ventilation I see no issue. But I have people in another group howling at the idea. Some are saying it is against CODE ? I assume they mean some regulation but I can't find anything anywhere that addresses this. I don't see the problem but I thought I would ask here. Is there a safety issue with a battery beside/under the tank? I would be in a box and tied down.

Store is and has been open for a while now.

It and Curlew are my favorites. For different reasons but that is the two I paddle most.

That is why the engineer in me could never build a traditional boat. I couldn't stand the thought of designing something and not being able to build it exactly. Then it being to unstable or having bad manners after all that work. Plus not being to reproduce the same hull shape again if I wanted. Not against traditional boats, just no interest in building one.

Looks like you did a very nice job there.

Plus Okume would be a much better quality plywood too. Assuming the DF you get is typical of what I can get. It is really disheartening the difference in American made plywood and imported plywoods. While I prefer to buy American the imported plywood is FAR superior to anything I have seen made here. But as you said, shipping is very expensive. I need 3 sheets for my Chris Craft. Shipping is as much as the plywood so I am trying to work up an order for all the wood for the boat at once.