Kudzu

I think I like you yard/view more than the boat frame! 😉

Have you looked for Baltic Birch? For the money it is a better choice.... no nearly as pricey as true marine ply and if your near a larger city you can probably find it. Last I bought was $30 +/- a sheet. Price does vary pretty widely though. Search Google for plywood or plywood dealers or maybe wood suppliers. Look for the ones that supply commercial wood shops or cabinet shops. I use Google maps and find the ones out in the industrial areas, not the retails sectors. (Some people have found it at Lowes or Home Depots but I have never seen it.) Call and see if they have Baltic Birch in 5' x 5' sheets. That is the perfect size for one of my boats and only true BB, imported from Russia, comes in 5x5 sheets.

FreeB is a Recreational kayak (fat, wide and slow). It was never meant for rolling. If she paddles Rec boats of similar size, good. If she paddles skinny Sea kayaks she isn't going to like it. Had surgery so my typing is limitedto one hand, so being brief.

I have never offered this one in full size plans and it is a good paddling boat too. I would like to have one but i have way too many boats now.

5 x 5 sheet is the perfect size for a boat kit too. Very little wasted.

I have never seen or used MDO. I have people talk about it and while it sounds good, I have tried a few things that sounded good but didn't work out so good in the long term. Can't recommend it at this point.

I agree with Dave. I have had one stringer warp a little with all the boats I have built and it wasn't a big deal. Cypress would be my go to wood if I could get it easily. I have left the frame bare. I have used paint, varnish, poly, oil and probably some more and now I just use what ever I have or the client wants. I think oil. poly or varnish look the best since the wood looks like wood. If the 'marine' plywood you have found is American made Douglas Fir, it probably crap. At least that has been my experience. Lots of voids in the ply's, horrible surface finish, splinters when cut. Nasty stuff and no way would I sell you a kit made from it. There maybe some good stuff made here in the US but I have not found it. That is why I use imported plywood. Baltic birch is still my favorite, best quality vs. price I can find. Imported marine plywood is fantastic stuff but very pricey. Try searching Google with terms like 'plywood wood dealers' and find the suppliers for the cabinet shops use. Skip Lowes, Home Depot and the like. You want the guys out in the industrial parks outside of town. They don't have show rooms. You go the counter, tell the man what you want and they load you up. They deal with pro's so don't expect hand holding. But they are the place you will find Baltic Birch and reasonable places.

I don't have numbers in front of me but it is typical for all my boats. Less stable than a commercial consumer boat but far from unstable.

If you compare the drawings on layout section you will see the strings bottom corners are the layout points. So stringers bottom edge is the point.

Once you attach the gunwales and the blocks it will be more obvious. But It is virtually impossible to glue all those in place and perfectly even, so the idea is get that top of the gunwale smooth/flat for cosmetic reasons. If you are installing breasthooks on top of the gunwales then you going to need the ends shaped so the breasthook rests flat on the gunwales.

Best answer is try it on some scrap and see. But you should be able to pull it tight with pliers. Sometimes you just have to get creative in your methods.

That is a good question. Obviously it will float no problem and be very stable. She could paddle it with a tall seat (most likely). What I don't know is if she will sink it enough for it to track well. Unlike most canoes it tracks well and with her in might be a little loose? Honestly not sure but you could always add a small skeg if needed. I have a video on building one on YouTube.

Not sure where you saw a 200 lb limit but that is not right. It will easily handle 250 lbs. Upper limit is.. well, I would have to look but at least 300 lbs.

Over the years I have tried most everything and found that all can work but obviously some work better than others. I have found that there is nothing better OR SAFER than a proper set of clamps and bars with a bow line to the front of the car. My issue with anything else is that the kayak will move around. Possibly turn sideways on your car or come off the car and hurt or kill someone. What I do is go to the Yakima site and figure out what will fit my car, INCLUDING older stuff. There is a good market on Ebay for used Yakima racks. Sometimes you can buy a mount with bars and maybe even some mount for a bicycle of canoe. Sell the stuff you don't need and end up with very little in the the pieces you needed. I have even made money breaking them up and selling pieces. I needed clamps for the Suburban. Yakima showed two styles, one was discontinued. Searching Ebay I found the old style at a good price with some other hardware I didn't need. But, I sold the extras and ended up with a rack for a fraction of what it would cost to buy new. Easy to put on and MUCH safer than some cheap makeshift methods I have used in the past. Again, I will stress that the bow line tied to the front of the car is just as important as the racks are.

Been thinking on this and I think you hit on it right there. Every WalMart in the country offers a 10-12 footer around $200. Instant and cheap gratification. No cares how poorly made they are and that many are down right dangerous. Glad I am near retirement age!