Kudzu

As I said, I did and they wanted more than I sell them for.

That is hard to answer not knowing what you have available. But I can say oil based products do the best. If you can find a clear oil based poly or Varnish, as long as they dry to hard finish that should work. Even if you store it inside I would try ti fond something with UV protection. There used to be a water clear finish available here, no idea exactly what it was but it tintable and very durable. It went away but you might have something similar if you do some searching on the internet.

Nice job!

Now I have finished the Starboard side repairs which needed the major work. I have 4(?) ribs left on that side to install. I had to wait till I removed the port side side planking. I can drive them in from underneath MUCH easier than from the top. I now have the those planks removed and some additional repairs to make while I have access. Just a bit more work and then I can install the ribs, the planking and I have all the major repairs made. Still a lot of work left to do but it feels so good to nearly have all the stuff done that had me so intimidated. Also wonderful watching how much easier the repairs get and how much better my skills are too.

I have been terrible about keeping this up to date. For a while I decided I was STORING rather than RESTORING this boat. But I have been working most every day on the boat for a few weeks and making good progress. Try to put in at least a couple of hours every day and latterly I have been putting in some pretty long days. My joints ache after this past couple of weeks so I need to take a few days and do some easy things. Big thing is the past few weeks I installed 90% of the ribs I needed too. I did a lot of sister framing and I now have the proper hull shape back. I had to do the ribs in two pieces. Tthey would need to been nearly 8' long and there was simple no way to get them in place before they cooled. Second, my oak was not good enough to take the tight bend at the chine. To much run out in the grain. So way to much breakage. So I steamed some shorter lengths and drove them in under the motor stringers up the chine a ways. Then I made a few molds and laminated the ends with the curve and up the sides. Tied them all together with a block or white oak. Took me a bit to get the steaming down right and found it a bit temperamental, but now I can steam and install very quickly working alone.

I never followed up on this but I got quotes from both and to my surprise it cost more than I charge to hand my kits. Not just a little bit either! So I will just keep cutting them by hand.

Just realized something. The premium fabric is only 65 to 65-1/2" wide. I measure my Cast Away and it is 64 inches behind the cockpit and that only leaves you an inch to try to sew a seam and that is really not enough to work with. The 9 oz is wide enough so I would have to recommend going with it. It is not as fine a weave as the Premium but it is still a really good fabric. I used a clients boat a while back and was impressed with it.

Not just trying to sell you something but I suspect you will have a hard time finding anything. I search all the time, talk to mills and sales people and I have a very hard time finding really good material. No one makes anything specifically for our use. I ship around the world because finding a fabric is hard regardless where you are. You said you wanted a really smooth finish. My Premium fabric is the smoothest fabric I have ever had. I ran out but I have a one length left that I miscut, laying in my office. It is the last of it and if your interested contact me. I can discount it a little bit. It will be a while before I have anymore in stock.

If you don't have them, get a pair of canvas pliers and use a piece of scrap wood under them. The are perfect for skinning a canoe. You can pull the fabric too tight with those!

I am with Dave on this. It just sounds like a disaster looking for a place to happen. You only need one sheet of 5x5 plywood and the cost is under $50 typically. I realize many of us have more time then we have money but it's not worth risking you live over $50.

Never use pockets and try to stretch polyester over a boat unless you just like frustration. 🙂 Polyester has very little stretch and you will never get it on the boat. My latest videos cover skinning. Part 6 is more about the laminated coaming but it deals witht new 9 oz. Part 7 I finish up the skinning and show sewing it on tight.

Things change and my methods have changed over the years. But by all means start at the coaming and work to the ends. Much more forgiving. If you star at the end and don't get the sided even you have a bunch of fabric to deal with an no choice but bunch up and sew in a wrinkle(s).

Fact is it is not a an easy one to sew. Best method is do the bow first to gain that experience. Sew from the coaming to the stearn. Once you get the fantail you just have to do small stitches and work very methodically. Paying lots of attention to what you are doing. Make sure that you get the fabric even on both sides as you stitch. Once you get to the very back you will be able to pull it a little tighter might pull some wrinkles out. Shrinking will remove some but it is just tricky to sew and patience is your friend.

Lokos great! Anxious to see the finished product.

Sorry, I was traveling over the Holidays and missed this. Since you ordered a kit I am confused why you are asking about getting the curve right? It came with the laminated beam. Have you tried to just put in place and see how it fits? But the center deck beam goes under and the outer two on top.