Charlie Jones

Herre's three sites to get you started- http://marina.fortun...#ROWING%202001B http://www.instantbo...m/oarmaking.htm http://www.bateau.co...imple_oars.html You might also check with Graham, see if he has some plans. Also, brouse Duckworks- Lots of good info there of various things. After a quick scan, found this on Duckworks- http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/storer/oar/index.htm

Kinda hard to disagree with the two preceding posts, but I am anyway Sitkqa spruce can be difficult to locate in some areas, fir is usually pretty available. I've done 8 or 10 spars using the Birds mouth technique, all from Doug fir. One pair was for a CS 20. All have done very well. In fact, the upper halves of the masts I built for a Princess 22 weigh less than the aluminum lower halves. But I think that cutting on a router table is slower than on a table saw. I cut all the staves, and cut the mouths, in about an hour and a half on the TS. Tapering took about as long. There used to be a formula somewhere on this site for stave sizing.. I can't find it anymore and the copy is on ther hard drive of my desktop, which has a crashed power supply. Maybe some else can find it? A picture of me "stress testing" a 23 foot mast for a gaff rigger. If I recall correctly it was 4 or 5 inches at the base and weighed around 40 pounds

Hey bud- you doing the Tex 200 this year? Come a bit early and visit if you are. Been too long since I've seen you. I'm gonna do it in Traveler. Hoping mto find compatible crew.

went by to see Peter's boat one day also. Was riding with Graham. Peter wasn't home, but the build looked great.

Steve W did in his questions couple posts back. Of course I came in there, instead of page 2. And thanks. Getting into being at home.. Of course I've put 1000 miles on the jeep since Christmas, going between here and Houston, and back, and there, and back Really strange to sleep in a bed that doesn't move, and when the wind gets up,, I DO wake up to check the anchor Did just under 7000 miles on the trip, 2200 singlehanded. I'd rather have company!! It's gonna take a while to fit back into land living I guess.

A line through a hole in the stem is a pretty traditional way of attaching a painter to a dinghy. Nothing particularly lame about it

In Feb, we delivered a 41 footer from Rockport Texas to Isla Mujeres. Tore a sail 100 miles off the Yucatan and the big Garmin chart plotter aboard didn't know any towns were there- but our Iphones, with Navionics, did- navigated us to in between the jetties at Progreso. I used mine a LOT in the last months,, coming around from Mobjack Bay to Port Lavaca Texas. Certainly wouldn't have it as my sole source, but it's really nice. I prefer Inavx to Navionics, but that's personal preference. I have every chart from the Rio Grande to the North of Maine loaded on my Iphone

Had a MiniPaw. Towed the thing all over the place, no problem. Only objection I had was it's NOISY at anchor. Sits so lightly on the water every little ripple makes it gurgle It most definitely wants two sets of locks so you can balance the boat.

Yeah, without a motor I find inflatables so much of a chore to row they aren't worth any of the supposed advantages. I built a Minipaw for a friend with a Marshall 19 cat who absolutely loves it. He tows it all over the SE New England area every summer. Our CharlieJ tows his behind a Meridian (25 feet) while crusing. Well worth considering. Howdy folks, from South Carolina, still out cruising. Now heading (slowly) back towards Texas, down from the Chesapeake Bay Yes,, we had a MiniPaw. Good little dinghy but NOISY!!! Sitting behind the boat while at anchor it just never shut up. Towed it many many miles though. So I sold it and we bought an Achilles- 7'6" wooden floor. I've now towed that boat over 4000 miles, including twice across the gulf stream, with great happiness with the dink. I do row it often, but when we have more than a few hundred yards to go, I install my 2.2 Merc. The inflatable CAN be rolled up and taken aboard, the Minipaw simply would not fit on deck anywhere. On inflatables- PVC dinks are much cheaper than Hypalon, but don't have anywhere near the life expectancy if used full time.If mostly stored and used only occasionally, they can be very good buys. One of the Bombards would be a good choice then. They make a very small one- AX5 or 6 I think. It's all a trade off- stowage, vs carrying capacity, vs, easy rowing. For this question, I'd go along with others and suggest an inflatable kayak or two.

Gotta be Tom Scott there

Tom- with our narrow beam you KNOW how Tehani lays over Just gotta get used to it. Way different from those Hobies of yours

Tom- Laura and I both have that app on our Iphones. We've found it to be fairly accurate. Having said that, I must chime in with the others-the time to reef is when the boat TELLS you it's time, not when some instrument does. Learn your boat. We pull down the first reef on Tehani when she consistently is heeled more than 25 degrees going to windward.

Mike- give me a ring later this evening when you get a chance. When my old phone crashed I lost your number

AS it now stands we'll probably haul at Hurricane Harbor for the bottom job. Boat is still at Graham's right now. Can't wait to get back. Shoot me a PM (or email) and we'll set up a meeting.

Hey Mike- on this end of the world-we'll be leaving Texas May 1, heading back to NC and Tehani. MAYBE this time we can connect. Probably gonna haul out at New Bern for a bottom job, then head up the coast.

Scot - when I had my other shop, I had an old chest freezer in there where I kept my epoxy, glues, etc. Any thing I didn't want to risk freezing. Yeah, it DOES freeze here, once in a while. I kept a light bulb in there- did it for years, no problems. But that also kept it warm even in lower temps, so the epoxy worked better. 50-60 degrees is too chilly for some epoxies, particularly the 2-1 ratio ones. Charlie Jones

As Peter says- just warm it up.. I use a bucket of very hot water. No problems.

Yep- I forgot also. And congrats to both Graham AND Marrisa on registering to vote. First time for Grandfather and grand daughter. Neat they could do it together.

:rolleyes: Got THAT right Tom. Ray- on the 20 I built, I did a tabernacle for the main- made it lots easier to step. Of course the Princess has them on both masts, but the 20 mizzen is small enough to not be a problem. Hey- they are BOTH good boats.

The subject of planing sailboat hulls, vs planing power hulls has a good bit to do with centers of effort. I know our boat, a fairly heavy non planing hull, doesn't like to get "pushed by the rear" and will squat if you apply too much power. That same hull will happily exceed hull speed under sail. I'd really suggest you correspond with Graham on this. He's readily available to folks, designs both sail and power ( some LARGE power) and would, I'm sure be happy to assist you. The number and email address are both on the B and B website.

Having built both a CS 17 and a 20 (and a Princess 22), I'd go for the 17. The 20 is a LOT more boat and much more than you really would need, 75% of the time. I also have been to B & B and seen the CNC cutting of a CS 17 kit. Even as a pro builder (retired ), I'd recommend that. Will save you LOTS of time, and aggravation. By the way folks- this is Charlie Jones posting. Had to change my login for some reason.

Yep- it had been very bad

Can't totally agree, although it is a great knot. But I've seen bowlines flog out from a jib clew. For halyards I use a Buntline hitch (from the square rigger days). THAT is a totally secure hitch, but has the disadvantage of jamming tight and being almost impossible to undo. Not a problem in a halyard, since usually when those are undone, you can use a knife For a jib clew I now use a button type arrangement- If these pics work they show the arrangement open and in use. I like it because I can easily move the connection to the reefing grommet on the jib and there's no heavy hardware to clonk heads. It does require a doubled jib sheet though, so not something you can just "add"

I'm a little late with this, but that's exactly how Graham suggests making the foils in his plans. Plywood is simply nnot a good choice. Laura and I have had a plywood dagger board fail dramatically (on another design from another designer). It's now done the way the Gougeon's show.