Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Paul356

  1. Whatever you do, dont use acetone. Nasty on your skin and your lungs, and not necessary.
  2. Excellent. Great fotos. Best wishes with law school.
  3. I have boat us/geico on my cs 17. They have been renewing every year. Fingers crossed.
  4. Yep, don't tie the reef lines to the sprits, but you already figured that. Just tie the reef lines around the bunched sail. Bravo to you for going out!
  5. Go, Graham. You'll have lots of hitchhikers.
  6. I did not lead my rear reefing line forward. I just cleat it on the sprit from the cockpit. Thanks for video, PP.
  7. That's it. I guess I need to do something different with those photos. Good thing you've got my back.
  8. There was too much line back at 'midship so I made (my wife made) some bags from Sailrite to tuck everything into. That was a big help. This also shows the location of the clam cleats.
  9. Here's a photo that shows it as well as anything, I guess. The lazy blue and red lines going up out of the top of the picture are the first and second reef lines, leading to hooks that are placed in cringles as the sails are hoisted. Ideally I would have led the far side of each line on the far side of the sail but I must have missed that as I was putting the slides on, and in practice it does not seem to make much difference. You can also see the taut halyard (white w/ blue twist) and snotter (blue) to the right of the mast and the downhaul (white w/ red twist) in a tight triangle just behind the mast, coming out of the clew cringle. All five lines come down to the deck. All are led away through bullet blocks that serve as turning blocks, and then through bullseyes, back to the starboard coaming amidships. You can see the one bullseye has three lines in it (downhaul and two reef lines), but only one of those three will be tight at one time. Some of the turning blocks are double bullet blocks, some are single. I use the same color coding for the lines on the mizzen, and the same blue/red coding for the rear reef lines on each sprit.
  10. A good year, for sure. Not to mention helping your young pal across the street.
  11. Ha! Busy, sculling, often a two handed effort. I was able to scull out of a lee anchorage into a mighty 4k headwind last fall, once I cleared the rocks & could get the scull down deep enough (another issue). Until then, I was "bursting" along with a 10.5 push pole oar, I guess.
  12. That's what I did, add additional down hauls for each reefing line, led back to clam cleats on the stbd coaming, where the halyrd, snotter and down hauls are also cleared. I'll try to find a picture.
  13. Yes, that's the sculling socket. Two reasons to scull. 1., with the mizzen mast up, the rowing station is compromised, 2., with both oars out, my craft suddenly has a beam of c. 20 feet, so not good for narrow areas. I use one of 10.5' oars I made to scull. Sculling with the motor bracket on is not the best. I got ahead of myself and wasn't thinking. I should have put the sculling bracket on the port side. I should move it, really. Joe is right: sculling is slow and not the best in a breeze. But handy when needed for short bursts to get in/out of ramp, etc.
  14. I scull my 17, works swell. The longer the oar, the better.
  15. I agree with Dave and Don. It takes me a minute, maybe less, to reef both sails on my CS 17. What could be easier than that? The mizzen keeps me pointed to wind, or actually just off wind, while I reef the main, and the mizzen almost reefs itself. I haven't found a big need to tie in the reef points, although I can do it if I have time. Head to wind then -- 3 seconds each -- sheet mizzen, loosen main halyard, loosen main snotter, tighten forward reefing line, tighten rear reefing line, hoist main halyard, tighten snotter. Loosen mizzen sheet, repeat reefing routine on mizzen. Back main slightly or use rudder to get back close hauled. Done, all from the center thwart.
  16. I'm very pleased with the Suzi 2.5 on my 17. My solution to oil lock is to avoid overfill and to store it with the pull cord facing down, or resting on the mounting bracket. I think the long shaft would mount right on the transom edge, if you made a little horizontal cutout and reinforced it. I got the short shaft because it's all they had then. The 2.5 pushes my 17 at 6 mph in calm flat water, pushed it at 5+ into 2-foot seas and 25mph wind. In other words, very sufficient power.
  17. Wonderful to see yet another CS 17 in the water and performing its wonderful paces.
  18. Or as some wise person, or wise guy, on this forum put it, 95% done, 95% to go.
  19. Congrats to Graham and the B&B crew. Marissa is featured in the latest Small Boats Monthly, with a rave review. https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/marissa-18/?utm_source=MC&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=marissa-18&utm_content=Article-Image&utm_campaign=Email-2021-NonSub1-April
  20. Really enjoyed the video, and also the comments following. Thanks. --pb (Core Sound 17)
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.