Dale Niemann Posted April 23, 2015 Report Posted April 23, 2015 I know this has been covered before but I can not seem to find it by searching. I have attached the only diagram I have related to what I want to do in re-rigging the 'Lively' mizzen. It is a lousy image but hopefully. I think Brent was the first to mention on this forum a long time ago. I am not sure if the Harken hardware is appropriate but had noted it on the paper. I am looking for specific block sizes and names so I can order (not sure if Graham carries these items). I thought there were photos of someones boat but again I cannot find any. I would appreciate any help I can get. thanks, dale Quote
Chick Ludwig Posted April 23, 2015 Report Posted April 23, 2015 That's about the way Tom Lathrop likes to rig his mizzen. I'm sure that he'll give you a sketch and details if ya ask him nicely. Quote
Peter HK Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 I'll attach a few pics of mine that might help. The only thing I couldn't find was a photo showing the fairlead on the underside of the sprit boom about half way along which just prevents the sheet from sagging too much and catching on things. Cheers Peter HK Quote
Dnjost Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Great photos. Can anyone explain the advantage of going with this method of sheeting vs. the original drawings? Will need to dig out my rigging plans for comparison. I particularly like the photo showing the reefing arrangement! Quote
MisterMoon Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 This is how mine is rigged. It does occasionally snag on the outboard starter handle and the stern cleats when jibing. Having never sailed with the double ended version shown in the plans, I can't say if it's better or worse. I'm not contemplating a change in any case. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 I like this system. If I were to do it, I'd use a Ronstan "head banger" system mounted on the mizzen. It would clear up the seat area. Available through apsltd.com, and ships for free. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Peter, how well does this system work? Does the sheet run smoothly through the turns? Would you do this again, if you had a choice? Would anyone like to buy a pair of clam cleats? LOL Quote
Scott Dufour Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 This is the same system I have on Rocinante (CS17). It's a matter of personal preference - I like to have the sheet coming from in front of me. It does clutter up the thwart, though. Quote
Dale Niemann Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Posted April 24, 2015 Thanks everybody. Don, how does you system work when the mast is moving with the sail or rotating? It seems you would have difficulty pulling if running with the sail 90 degrees to the boat. Peter or anybody else remember what size blocks you are using. thanks, dale Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Dale, I have no experience with these boats. I didn't know that the masts rotated on their steps. I guess I'll rig conventionally, and mess with it as I sail. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 I'd be tempted to go with the headbanger mounted on the sprit. I'm trying very hard to keep the seat clear for rowing. Quote
Peter HK Posted April 24, 2015 Report Posted April 24, 2015 Peter, how well does this system work? Does the sheet run smoothly through the turns? Would you do this again, if you had a choice? As everyone has said it is simply personal preference. I like having the sheet to hand in front of me and near the mainsheet so everything can be adjusted without having to move around the boat. I don't have oars (only a paddle) so the loss of rowing seat is no concern to me. I have an outboard on a bracket to use if I have to (and the bracket keeps the sheet from catching on the motor) but mostly sail everywhere. The only disadvantage with this system is there is a little more friction which means in very light conditions (like 1-2 knots) the mizzen boom won't ease out as well as the main and needs a push. As to type of block they are Ronstan ball bearing blocks suitable for up to 8mm line http://www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/range.asp?RnID=004a Cheers Peter HK Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 25, 2015 Report Posted April 25, 2015 I'm going with Ronstan Orbit 30's, so we're on the same page. I'm going to attach them with lashings. I think this will allow me to mess around with different alternatives. I, too, prefer to have the sheets in front of me. But I have no experience with them placed behind me. Maybe it's not a big deal. Can't wait to experiment. Quote
Tom Lathrop Posted April 25, 2015 Report Posted April 25, 2015 This is the basic mizzen system that I like because I like to have all the sheets always available ahead of me and be able to trim and cleat from any position in the boat for both helmsman and crew. Its a sailboat first for me and rowing is secondary. I never row if there is any wind. The mid sprit fairlead is just section of PVC pipe shaped to suit. The block on the mas should be in line with the sprit to avoid pulling down on the sprit. Probably should rethink a headbanger on the sprit since the lead would be unfair to the helm on one tack or the other and it also pulls down on the sprit, which should be avoided. Have noticed no problem with trimming the sheet when the mizzen mast is rotated for a run. I had the sheeting system shown on the plans on LOON and found it much inferior to this one. I much dislike clam cleats on running sheets and having them behind me in a small boat where control often need to be immediate is important to me. Once nearly capsized because the crew was pushing their body back against the windward mainsheet cleat and I could not release it. This plan is similar to what I used on various racing boats for many years and has saved my cookies many times. Graham may not agree and we agree to disagree on this issue, Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 26, 2015 Report Posted April 26, 2015 Thanks for the details, Tom this is very helpful. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 26, 2015 Report Posted April 26, 2015 I need to protect for rowing, since my primary lake has quirky boat launching fees. Namely, non-motorized boats may launch for $5/year. Since I'm out of state (just across the border), it would cost me $400/year. It is still $400, even for an electric motor. I will not, therefore, be using any sort of motor on that lake! Other than that, it's a lovely lake. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 26, 2015 Report Posted April 26, 2015 I meant that with a motor it is $400/year. Quote
ecgossett Posted April 26, 2015 Report Posted April 26, 2015 I used the plans for rigging mine. However, I've always hated the way the main sheets come across the thwart seat, and cleat on the coaming. Having been in several CS17's with with above described rigs, they are much better. When ever I have the boat full of kids, they quite often wind up accidentally sitting on mainsheets when tacking, and occasionally adults do it as well (kids learn faster not to). 1 Quote
Don Silsbe Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 I'm not sure how I would apply this to the mainsheet system. Quote
Peter HK Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 I'm not sure how I would apply this to the mainsheet system I think the comments re the main are for the original sheeting system which in my plans (circa 2006) show the sheet going through a block near the forward edge of the thwart and then via a fairlead to a clamcleat on the coaming. It is easy to sit on and not so easy to use especially when hiking. Many of us use something like these http://www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/product.asp?prodno=RF67 which work very well. To keep the thwart free for rowing just place them wide enough so you can sit between them. As you said earlier you can fit an RF5 on the mizzen mast instead of an RF67 on the thwart. Cheers Peter HK Quote
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