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Posted

Bed the hinges in Lifecaulk or Sikaflex and waterproof won't be an issue.  Not sure what you are screwing into (thickness particularly), but machine screws/washers and nuts would probably be my choice.


Posted

I am going with machine screws, nuts, lockwashers, and bedding in sikaflex.  I may forego the piano hinge on the stern locker hatch, and go with a take apart hinge so that I can set the hatch to the side, yet have lockable storage for when we travel to and fro.  I can see a real advantage to not having the hatch in the way when opened for better access to the far recesses of the stern locker area.  

 

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Posted

That is a great idea and I had not thought of that as far as not having the hatch cover in your way......I wonder if the piano hinge could go on top but that may mess with trim I am planning to have up there.....hmmmm.....

What is your plan for the take apart hinge. I wonder if a flush board going across bottom catching bottom of door would suffice?

The kit has about a two inch recess around the hole I am sure you know....

That is a great idea and I had not thought of that as far as not having the hatch cover in your way......I wonder if the piano hinge could go on top but that may mess with trim I am planning to have up there.....hmmmm.....

What is your plan for the take apart hinge. I wonder if a flush board going across bottom catching bottom of door would suffice?

The kit has about a two inch recess around the hole I am sure you know....

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Posted

Len,

 Here are the take apart hinges I used on Petunia. You need at least a few inches on the hatch which will be straight to allow both hinges to work in tandem (unless you decide to go with only one of them). I had bought a few sets over the years (major advantage of taking SO long to complete a build is you occasionally forget what you have previously bought...). I gave Doug Cameron a set down at the Messabout, and if you'd also like a set let me know and I'll drop them off while I'm in the area this week.

It is a nice feature to be able to get the hatch out of the way when you want access to the aft compartment....

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Posted

That is precisely how I currently plan to do this.  Thanks for the photos.  I admit I had not considered a flush board accomplishing the same thing!  Might change my mind once the boat shop warms up.    The hatch itself (not pictured) has an inner layer of 3/8 added to it to stiffen it some as the 1/4" by itself seemed a tad flimsy.  Since the inner ring around the hole is recessed, the lower lip method might work great.  Report to follow...

 

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I know what you mean about parts accumulating during a long duration build.  I have several bow and stern eyes (industrial strength). I know not why. 

Posted

Thanks Bill! Hopefully we will work out Sat or Mon as discussed.. I would love to receive those hinges. I will trade you a few extra Bulls eyes!

Posted

Docpal, I think they may come in handy on my CS-15 Mk-3. Hey, I went to your personal info. to see if you have a name and noticed that you are about my age. What are we old guys doin' still messin' about building boats?

 

I think I just figured out who you are---I met you at B&B's messabout. You were still building your boat outside G's shop while the rest of us were messing on the water. But you finally got her wet. I asked about your cool portlights.

Posted

Yup, That was me...And I'm still working on her, only she's in Florida for the Winter which makes it all possible...

PS- After seeing your 2.5 HP Suzuki at the Messabout I called Porta Bote and ordered on myself...Nice motor, now I need to find a bracket to hold her...

Posted

Executive decision.  My continuous hinge came in a 6' length, so am using that on all the cockpit hatches including the stern.  I did figure out that there is not much wood (1/4") to screw into on the stern locker lid,  therefore I am going to add a strip of 1/4" X1" to the bottom of both the lid and the bulkhead to provide some more bite for the screws.  It does appear that this is indicated on the plans.  I have visions of "Bigfoot" accidentally stepping on the lid when it is opened and ripping it off it's moorings.  But, it is not going to float away on me. I addition, I am bedding these in Sikaflex.  

 

David

  • 6 months later...
Posted

I have question in reference to the U shaped base for the seat hatches for the CS17 mkiii. I have assembled the sides in the U according to the photos and posts.  However, the two ends of the U protrude out bout 1/4".  There are photos which show the front face of the hatch ring completely flush,  ends of the U included. This make sense to me for installation. However there are a couple of photos which seem to show the ends of the U protruding.   Which is correct? 

 

Please let me know. 

 

Regards 

Richard

Posted

Ok well figured out the problem but too late. Operator error.  It is very important  to note, and not easy to see in the photos, but the 90 degree angle of the big end of the side pieces is up.  The 90 degree angle of the big end does not get glued to the U base.  I hope that makes some sense.   And if you have them upside down, the ends of the U base will extend out about a 1/4".  

 

The really sad part is I looked all the photos and blogs and thought I had the orientation correct.   Please avoid the mistake. I had to cut the parts apart.. It will still work...just ugly, really ugly.

 

Rgds 

R Johnson

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