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Ocracoke 24


Miyot

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  • 2 weeks later...

So far I have used staples to fasten the outer layer of planking.  They have worked excellent, even on the slightly convex areas approaching the bow.  I put in a lot, not knowing just what their spacing should be for maintaining good contact.  I use full body weight on the stapler, its hard on the hand and it is not easy.  You will break a sweat.   I made up a few blocks for keeping the plank seams fair on the inner layer.  Can't upload pictures.

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Russell, I am unable to post pics.  The planking sections I am talking about are the flat bottom sections.  They become more convex as they approach the bow.  I am going to use the staples as much as I can.  An air stapler would be easier.  However, the difficulty is not pulling the lever to work the stapler.  It is getting your body weight onto the stapler to hold the planking layer together.    You can't get a clamp into the large bottom planks, so you must use your body weight.  I am using the heel of my hand on the forward adjustment screw of the stapler to bring my full body weight onto the front of the stapler.  I resorted to a pad in between my hand and the stapler to protect my hand.  It still isn't easy.  You are on a slope, and just as your body weight comes onto the stapler it may rock to one side and crease or dent your plank a little.  If you are square and careful you can avoid this.

 

Also some staples go in flush and others remain slightly proud, no matter how carefully you adjust the stapler.   So when you sand them off, some of the tops of the staples remain and others  sand off nicely.  But, and here is an unanswered question.  Many small dimples are left behind.  Sanding  for fairing will take care of many of these.  Will your epoxy coats, prior to glassing fill the remainder.  Or will you have to fill some of these with a thickened epoxy.  Will some of these print through, they are quite small, but there will be many.  I don't have answers yet.  AND BE WARNED, YOUR PLANKS MUST NOT HAVE VOIDS IN THEM.  So far mine do not.  And when the time comes I will switch to screws.  The forward bow flair will need to be screwed.

 

I found at least for me that a pilot hole needs to be drilled for your screws and blocks.  I am using a tapered drill bit with a stop collar.  Measured to the appropriate length for the thickness of the block you will be using.  The hole is small where it drills into the inner plank ( which helps to avoid splintering when the screw penetrates the inner plank).  It is a larger hole where the screw penetrates the outer plank ( so the threads don't bite much and allows the planks to be drawn together nicely).  The hole in the washer block is large enough the threads don't bite at all but tight enough the screw won't fall out.  And the blocks are covered with packing tape.  Sounds like a lot, but its not.  I made up a bag of hundreds.  I also made up some with two screws per block.  These can be used to draw the seams flush in the inner planks till the epoxy sets, before planking the outer layer.  The seams are nice at the stringers, keel, etc.  But may be slightly off in between these.  A couple of these blocks over the seams with a screw at each end pull the seam nice and flush until the epoxy sets.  

 

I am still unable to upload pictures, or you could see what I am talking about.  The staples I'm using for planking are 9/16

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Hey Lance, looks like our Drum, at least your fishing.  I'm going to do some fishing when our weather breaks.  Supposed to be in the teens at night this week.  We aren't having much of a spring.  Hopefully things will warm up soon.

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Lets try again.post-2660-0-88999000-1363801836_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-17020300-1363801884_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-79985000-1363801919_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-74705900-1363801954_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-09742200-1363801980_thumb.jpg  Now you can see my helper.  I don't know if you can see the staples in the photo, but you can see my fairing blocks, and the transom where the planks over lap.  I'm back baby.  Thanks Frank.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Dave Marsh

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Hello Miyot;

Glad you are able to post pictures. I was a little sad not being able to see your work. I love that transom shot. You are a lucky man to have such a great helper. I have a 70 year old grump helping me.

I have my frames up and supported. Battens next then foam. On the road again next week so a little slow down.

PG

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I would like to carry at least 100-120 gallons.  I need to look into fuel consumption on the engines I am considering.  It is a light boat for her size.  I won't do it often, but will run her 35-40 miles offshore when the weather looks good.  I have looked at Moeller plastic tanks.  They have a new nylon liner that is supposed to keep the fuel smell from coming through the plastic.  I have taken some preliminary measurements.  There are some new regs, something about the vents running through some kind of trap.  Moeller, I think, has it on their site.  I will get serious about tanks after turnover.  

 

What are your thoughts one the subject.  I'm open to suggestions.  This has been on my mind some lately.  Many details to work out as I approach turnover.  Although I did install an aux. tank on a Grady white yrs ago.  And I  replaced a leaking diesel tank made of wood that was fiberglass lined once.  There are many things on this build that are new to me.  I have glassed a few small decks, but never anything on this scale.  I am looking for info as I go.  I want to get it right the first time.  Like everyone else, by the time I about complete what I am working on, I'm just getting the hang of it.

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The great tank question. I am going to use the Evinrude 150 Etech motor. Lots of power, lightweight and very fuel efficient. Where I live we are fortunate to have no less than 5 harbors to go to in less than 1 hour. I may go offshore a few times but it is not high on my priority list. I am thinking of installing 2, 28 gallon Moeller 032528 plastic tank. Plan B would be 2  25 gallon tanks that are 18" wide. I have not installed my stringers so I may have to spread them a bit to fit these tanks in. I am a marine surveyor by trade and plastic is the way to go. I want the two tanks so that I can just use one of them for around town. This keeps the fuel fresh also. Then if I get the urge I will fill both and venture offshore. Remember that you need to allow an extra 2.5" for the hoses under the deck. The vent is recommended to run through a back flow preventer Some even have charcoal filter in them. If you over flow the tank it stops the fuel from going out the vent. I have also noticed that some of the guys are using the console or the helm seat for their fuel fill. That is an ABYC no no. The fuel fill belongs on the side deck. I am using a cap that is also a vent so that I don't have a vent on the side of the boat.  

 

I will say for someone who call himself a rookie you are doing a great job!! When the time comes I could give you tips on glassing a big project like this. My boat because of the foam core will get three layers of glass. 1-18oz 1-17oz 1-10oz . We will do it all at once. That will be a busy day.

 

Thanks for letting me step into your blog. It has been great fun.

PG

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I have been considering Yamaha 150 or 200 4 stroke.  I have been leaning toward the 150.  I have also thought about the Merc 150.  I've owned both brands and liked them both.  I may not need 120 gal of fuel, perhaps 80 will give me the range I need.  2 or 3 trips offshore per yr is probably as much as I'll do.  I'll just have to do some research and figure it out.  Two belly tanks, similar to NZ Lances boat, with my fuel fills on the port side deck is what I have in mind.  Using the aft tank just for offshore trips, similar to your idea.  Thanks for the nice comment and post here anytime, I really enjoy it.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Dave

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Dave,

When I was shopping I learned that Yahama and Mercury four-strokes are identical inside. Take the best deal on either. 

Be sure to check the prices in Canada.

The manufactures charge the US dealers more than anyplace else. Also, the Canadian Government reimburses all taxes paid by Americans. You could literally save a thousand or so. You could take the your wife for a romantic few days at Niagara Falls to show your appreciation for all she's been through during the build. Then you could either come home with the motor in your truck, or tow the boat up and have it fitted there.

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