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Miyot

Ocracoke 24

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Hi Jerry

The article was in PBB February/March 2013 # 141. Designing Consoles for Speed. I used the guidelines for height instruments size etc. But I tried to make it a little more pleasing to the eye. I am going to make my T-Top 5x7' I will use divinacell core and e-glass. I want it to be as light as possible. This should reduce some of the diagonal bracing in the supports. If you put a canvas top up there it is actually heavier due to the amount of stainless steel structure needed to hold up the canvas. I found some slick running lights that will go right into the edge of the top. 

My vote is for center console Miyot. It is more versital lighter and sexier. Just my 2 cents.

PG

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Toomanyboats, I'm not exactly sure what you need,but i'll try.  Our plans will differ but should be similar.  I measured back from the last station as per the plans and marked the transom position on the keel.  Drew lines on both sides of the keel to the designed rake, clamped a small board on each side on the lines as a jig and cut off the end of the keel with a hand saw.  Then I marked a center line on the end of the keel, clamped my two transom supports to the jig, set the transom on them and leaned it onto the keel.  Then fiddled with it until it set right and square against the end of the keel.  Not to high or low, remembering the bevel where the bottom planking meets the transom.  I ended a little high and had to plane off the extra material.  When it looked right I drilled a single hole for a bronze screw through the bottom of the transom into the keel and epoxied it to the keel.  

 

Your stringers, side stringers, and additional plys notched around the keel all fasten the transom to the boat.  I made a light frame out of 1/2 "  ply and put it around the inside perimeter of the transom, notched for the chine battens, stringers.  This has to match the transoms side bevel for the planking as well.  Everything holds the transom on.  I used only one screw just to glue the transom to the keel.  Hope this helps

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Miyot: thanks for taking the time with my question.  Yes, it helps a lot.  One related question, On the 15 ft. runabout that I built, the plans called for a 2x6 strongback attached to the transom at the below the motor well. Since even small hp motors are pretty heavy these days, I think this would be a good idea for the OB 20.  Do you have any thoughts on this?

 

Your boat is looking great and I have learned a lot by following your posts.

 

Thanks again.

 

Alan

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Like Toomanyboats, although it's a long way down the road yet for me, I'm concerned about the technique(s) of fastening the transom to the frame, whether metal fasteners are needed and so on.  I've not been able to find much on the subject in the publications I've seen so I really appreciate your input Miyot. 

 

Hightechmarine, thanks for the info on the console article.  I've ordered the magazine.  BTW please remind me what boat you are building and if you're doing a thread on it.  When you get the T-top built I hope to see pictures.

 

Jerry

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toomanyboats, I don't know what your plans call for so I can't really say.  The designer knows what structural elements are needed and they are in the plans.  My transom is only glued on, no mechanical fasteners were used.  My transom is 3/4" thick with an additional 9/8" of plys glued in the central mid section where the motor will hang, this was in the plans.  I have a bulkhead approx. 2 1/2 ft forward of the transom.  The motor well sides attach to the transom and this bulkhead and so does  the upper decking.  Lower decking at the same level as the cockpit sole also fastens to the transom and this bulkhead.  This is quite beefy and all provides strength to the transom.  I did add vertical stiffeners to the bottom stringers where they fasten to the transom, these were not in the plans, I just liked the idea. You can see these on some of my previous posts.  I believe your plans have the additional plys which are glued to the transom and notch around the keel, which on my plans appear directly above the transom drawing on the construction plans.  Also the planking overlaps the transom sides and bottom, very strong.

 

If you have questions on structural members give Graham an email.  He has never failed to answer any of my emails.  This is only my third boat and I'm really not qualified to answer any questions on boat building.  As you build, your confidence will grow along with your boat.  It is all a learning experience and fun.

                                                                                                                                               Dave

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Both chines on and four side stringers.  I used a clamp to keep the twist in the side stringers until the epoxy sets up.post-2660-0-22595500-1365990578_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-12169800-1365990606_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-98054400-1365990624_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-30673200-1365990640_thumb.jpg

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Installing the intermediate shear  clamp.  These have been tough.  I got the first one to the stem, measured and cut the compound miter.  Began to bring it flush and it cracked.  Now this is fun.  I took it off, epoxied the crack and scarfed a short piece to the end.  Then let it cure.  Meanwhile I put on another, brought it to the stem and cut my miter.  Then eased it back out and wrapped a couple bath towels around it and poured boiling water on it every 5 min for about 40 min.  In it went.  

 

Then I turned the broke one end for end, put it on the boat and brought it to the stem.  It made it.  A minute later it exploded.  So I cut out the section and scarfed in another.  When  its cured good I won't mess around.  I'll steam it and clamp it to the boat.  Let it sit a few days, back it off and cut the miter.  If all goes well I'll have them both glued to the boat By Friday night.  I'm getting close to the flair.  I can start to see how it will look.  Very exciting. post-2660-0-95700600-1366245951_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-43743000-1366245973_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-07583700-1366245992_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-04406000-1366246012_thumb.jpg

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It looks like you have some serious grain run out at the crack.  I have had to reject boards for conventional planking replacement because of this.  It is just part of the expense of boat work.  It sure can be frustrating, but then if it were easy, anyone could do it.

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It looks like you have some serious grain run out at the crack.  I have had to reject boards for conventional planking replacement because of this.  It is just part of the expense of boat work.  It sure can be frustrating, but then if it were easy, anyone could do it.

Yes, you are right, I had used this one first and cracked the other end, turned it around for one more go.  I hope the piece I scarfed in yesterday goes in, i'll steam it first.  These sheer clamps are under quite a lot of stress, and they must twist considerably as well.  The first break was just a split, but it bothered me as I had chosen the best end.  The big break didn't bother me near as much, I actually had a little smile.  I know i'll get it done.  But it would be nice if the next try works.

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Starting on the sheer clamps.  I had damaged the sheer clamp notch with a jigsaw so glued in a new piece (frame 2).  I have fussed over and over with this sheer clamp, knowing the sheer is the big deal.  I finally settled on the numbers, the only adjustment I made was to shim the notch in frame 4 about 1/2 inch.  The sheer was just a little flat through this section.  I tried fixing the problem by moving the sheer clamp on the other frames, trying to ease the problem without shimming so much.  I couldn't get it.  This notch is curved, I shimmed the bottom, not the side of it.  This brought the clamp up and out.   What a difference, just seemed to finally be right.  Tried the other side and it needed the same.

 

I tried a 1/2 inch lamination and it would not go.  I dropped down to 3/8 and it worked.  There is just a little flat spot right close to the stem, the Doug Fir is a little to stiff to bend nicely here.  Once all the lamination's are on, if it still doesn't look just right I'll glue a short lamination on there and plane it sweet.  Here are some progress pics.post-2660-0-42350000-1367028520_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-75639900-1367028539_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-57870900-1367028558_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-60572400-1367028572_thumb.jpg

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Miyot;

You are certainly getting there. I asked Graham for stations 6.5 and 7.5. I thought the space between was just to far. Things look a little more fair now. I should be cutting core at the end of the week. 

Your boat looks great I am jealous that you are that far along.

PG

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Miyot;

You are certainly getting there. I asked Graham for stations 6.5 and 7.5. I thought the space between was just to far. Things look a little more fair now. I should be cutting core at the end of the week. 

Your boat looks great I am jealous that you are that far along.

PG

Post some pics when you can.  Wish I was farther along, but glad to be this far.  Laminating the sheer clamp is taking awhile.  I wanted to get two lams a side per day but I have been busy and I'm averaging one per side every day.  I have 3 on each side so far, will try to bump it up  some this weekend.  The first  and second lamination look a little funny because they are the inside of the clamp.  Number 3 on and they start to look much better (my lamination's are 3/8 thick).  I made up 14 at 3/8".  After these are glued on I'll make some thicker ones to come out to size and finish.  Moving on.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Dave

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Should be ready to begin fairing for side planking by next weekend.   Should start making some serious progress in a few weeks as I will have some time off work.  I have decided on a center console and have found my T Top and leaning post.  I've been slack for a couple of weeks and I'm getting ready for a push.  Makin way.post-2660-0-68930300-1368317231_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-50916600-1368317253_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-44565900-1368317276_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-13949900-1368317326_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-68297100-1368317360_thumb.jpg  Brought the trailer home, 8 hr round trip.

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A couple morepost-2660-0-17966200-1368317750_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-07853500-1368317773_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-44825000-1368317799_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-10245700-1368317826_thumb.jpg  Two more laminations on the port side and three to starboard.  The outer two laminations will be 1/2" thick as they will now take the bend.  I ended up with 10 laminations per side.  A couple days and my sheer clamps will be finished.

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Boy looks great. Lots of work but it looks like a great job. Is that your wife checking out how her basement is coming. Ooops. Check out these running lights I am putting in my t top. They are flush mount and incredibly bright. I am making a solid top. I am not putting radar or anything crazy up there. I think I am going to have a couple of days next week. Tempted to shut off the phone. Keep up the good work looks great.

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13042-stainless-steel-elliptical-led-navigation-light-kit.aspx

PG

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Hightech, I'm adding you to my friends list.  You are the first.  That comment about the wife was excellent.  We both had a good laugh, just perfect.

 

 I worked on the boat today, adding another lamination.  Cut the stem so the final two laminations on each side will overlap the stem.  I also added the final side stringer on the port side.  This one really takes a twist, poured boiling water on it for a half an hour and it went right in.  

                                                                        Dave

 

post-2660-0-96556100-1368401033_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-41865300-1368401066_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-57533900-1368401100_thumb.jpg

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Fishman38, there are no fasteners in my sheer clamps,just epoxy.  I did screw each side stringer with a single 1 3/4" silicon bronze screw at the stem.  I did consider running a silicon bolt through the sheer clamps and stem, but I don't think I will.  The first layer of planking will be screwed and glued.  This should hold things well enough.

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