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Everything posted by Tarbaby

  1. The notched trowel method is only used where there is a big hole in the fairing that you need to fill. Never all over the whole boat. It prints through the paint horribly and you will see it forever. You could do it on the bottom, but you really aren't saving yourself any work. There is no shortcut way to get these hulls fair. It takes strong backs and weak minds. Break the project of fairing into sections. Smaller elephants are easier to eat than big ones.
  2. Nice job. Can you give us a side shot with her flipped over?
  3. I hope this is not an early April fools joke and if it is I am sorry for being so tough on you. Go ahead and cheap out on one whole sheet of plywood. Really? One sheet? You will pay 10 times that trying to fair the hull with the mess this will create. A hull that has curves needs to be fair, not a bunch of facets. This idea is not brilliant or smart. It is just plain dumb. Show me how this could possibly be a fair curve. Don't overthink this process. Do it the way that all the smart guys that have gone down this road before have taught us. Not trying to be too harsh but this is just a bad idea. Please remove that picture so that someone else won't ever try this.
  4. There is no reason to steam any part of a cold molded boat. If the piece wont go it means that it is too thick. Cut it thinner and do a lamination of two thinner pieces. The amount of work it takes to build a steam box etc you can laminate all of the ribbands on the boat. I am not a fan of taking perfectly good and dry wood, that we pay extra for to be that way, and add water to it. A little finesse goes a long way in fitting ribbands.
  5. I will be there if I still have the boat.....
  6. I use the 2" chip brushes from Harbor Freight. 36 for about 9 bucks. The yellow spreaders from there are good. I use the purple sprayguns from there and throw them away after a use. It costs more to clean them than to open a new one in the box. I like really good tools so I only use throw away stuff from there. We could start a Harbor Freight thread. I am sure there is more stuff there that I don't use but should.
  7. I am so covered up right now...... I would like to help but I have to meet my deadline. There is a guy named Oyster down east that is really good!!!!
  8. I fold and use the sharp edge of the cast iron table of my tablesaw.
  9. PM me your address and I will send you a bag......
  10. I use unfinished golf tees.....
  11. I have a motto that I live by in my shop...... "Dryfit everything!" If you make two parts and glue them together they will go everywhere but where you want them. You must with every part of the boat; screw them together, unscrew and then re-screw them back together with glue. The screw holes will line up where you want the parts to be.
  12. I use different epoxy than what you are using. I have different size containers for each quantity that I mix. If the temperature is warm in the shop I like to use wide containers. I use paper bowls from the grocery store. If you mix a large quantity in a tall cup it will tend to kick faster. I use a small block heater in the winter to heat my pump and in the summer I will put the unused epoxy in my fridge to slow down the reaction. If you are on a concrete floor you can place the container on the cool floor and it will also slow it down. Your results may vary.
  13. OK Lance.... What is next for you?
  14. I am liking this hull. I could see it as a center console..... Got me thinking.
  15. She is the Ocracoke 20..... I moved the breakshear back about 12 inches..... And a few other things.. I should have her buttoned up soon. Looking forward to a ride!!
  16. Not to jump on your thread but I would like to show that I didn't use the Ashcroft method either. I feel that this has to be stronger and it is like the other boats I have built. I built it the way I know how. I will say this about these plans..... It is really fast to build because of the size of the planks you can use. There isn't a ton of shape in the hull. Too much shape and you are using rediculously thin planks. I am rethinking future builds to take some shape out of the boat and add interior volume... I look forward to your posts and seeing this boat come together.
  17. Don't overthink this process. Screws and washers are the preferred method. I can assure you that staples will not hold well enough to get a good bond between the layers. You can span the previous plank with the washer and pull the planks fairer.... Weep holes in the second layer will allow the glue to come out and show you that the two layers are getting a propper clamp. I am one of the foolish builders that uses golf tees but not on the hull. I use them on the surfaces that direct sunlight hits and tends to get those surfaces warm causing the print through.
  18. Looking good Lance. I have one of these going also.....
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