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Miyot

Ocracoke 24

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I read on another site that with the proper use of the peel ply and adding a little more resin during wet out ( of both the 1700 and peel ply) you could eliminate the filling of the weave step and the peel ply would consolidate the lay up and also remove excess resin.  Leaving you with a finished surface.  All that would be needed would be  a final sanding of small defects and the surface would then be ready for high build primer.

Thus eliminating all of the sanding that comes after filling the weave of the traditional method.

 

 

The other method was to use the extra layer of finish cloth as you have suggested.  There was a little debate over this.  Both parties of the debate seemed to be very  knowledgeable on the subject.  

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I would never add extra resin. It is to hard to regulate. I roll my peel ply into the fabric with the roller. This raises the resin and wax to the surface. Peeling this off leaves a more even base of resin. I am not sure that would be smooth enough for high build that's for sure. One more layer of glass is much stronger and a lot easier to fair. This also gives you some threads in the 0-90 direction.

Hope to get back at it next weekend.

Happy Fathers Day.

PG

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Planking.  I have reached the flare at the bow and the staples continue to work well.  Each plank now has to be bent into place and scribed to fit, but it isn't to difficult.  Plank width is now down to 8" so is a bit slower.  I have been using silicon bronze screws to fasten the inner layer.  I have been removing all the screws but the ones in the sheer clamp and the stringer directly below it.  The epoxy doesn't seem to glue the screws in if they are drilled for after the plank is clamped in place.  The few that are drilled prior to clamping will get some squeeze out in the hole and they become permanent.   The ones that screw into the chine should come out so there will be no problems rounding over for glassing.

 

I usually drill one hole into the chine for positioning and holding the plank in place while clamping and positioning.  If you clean this hole of epoxy before fastening, the screw will usually come out.  However I usually back this one out after about 6 hrs and replace it to assure I can remove it.  I am using 3/4 inch screws.  They hold really well, and if they are stuck they can be left in. No reason to use screws any longer than 3/4, and I feel you run the risk of splitting a stringer using the longer screws as some builders do.  Also I am only using two screws per stringer on the 8" planks.  Getting good squeeze out.  This info isn't worth much unless your building this boat, but someone may use it sometime.

 

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 I have been using silicon bronze screws to fasten the inner layer.  I have been removing all the screws but the ones in the sheer clamp and the stringer directly below it. 

Why use bronze screws if you are removing them?  Why not a cheap drywall screw?

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 I have been using silicon bronze screws to fasten the inner layer.  I have been removing all the screws but the ones in the sheer clamp and the stringer directly below it. 

Why use bronze screws if you are removing them?  Why not a cheap drywall screw?

 

Well I have the bronze screws, which I had planned to just leave in the boat.   Now I have been removing the majority because if a staple hits one while fastening the outer layer, it does not go in all the way and breaks at least one leg of the staple.  This is not really a problem.  Just drive another staple.  However if you break off a drywall screw, it must be removed. Extra work.  If I break off a bronze screw, I don't even flinch.  I just leave it in and move on.   I will occasionally cam-out  a bronze screw trying to remove it.   If its in the way of fairing, it is soft enough to use a dremel with a stone and easily grind it down so you can fair your piece.  I use a lot of drywall screws for building molds, forms or whatever.  I will never put one in a boat again.  I have a collection of bronze screws left over from my last build.  I bought  3 boxes of the 3/4" for about 35 dollars.  Enough to do this boat with the amount I leave in.

 

I have also quit using stainless as much as possible, though I do use them when they are called for.  I see to many of them rust.  Some out of the  same box.  Some will  be fine and others will cause rust stains down the side of the boat.    Oh well I could have said I just like the bronze. 

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I don't blame you at all for liking bronze.  It is always my first choice for boats when it meets the other parameters of the job.  They are just so %#&^ expensive, especially for a throw away application.  The cheap skate in me would want to save them, even with no use on the schedule.

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Well they are never thrown away.  And they are expensive.  I am leaving them in the boat in certain spots.

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This info isn't worth much unless your building this boat, but someone may use it sometime.

 

Your info is certainly helpful to me as a first boat builder. 

 

One comment on removing screws:  I use an impact driver a lot and it seems to me that I'm more successful using it to remove screws than with regular power drivers or manual drivers without cam-out or breaking the screw.  The Makita impact driver I use, BTD142, 18v (I think I'm right about this) has a variable impact force feature with which a gentle touch on the trigger produces a gentle tap-tap on the screw.  I think this is why it works so well.  However, it will definitely break the screw if  you're not careful and the screw is really stuck. Mind, I'm talking drywall screws here, have never used bronze.

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This info isn't worth much unless your building this boat, but someone may use it sometime.

 

Your info is certainly helpful to me as a first boat builder. 

 

One comment on removing screws:  I use an impact driver a lot and it seems to me that I'm more successful using it to remove screws than with regular power drivers or manual drivers without cam-out or breaking the screw.  The Makita impact driver I use, BTD142, 18v (I think I'm right about this) has a variable impact force feature with which a gentle touch on the trigger produces a gentle tap-tap on the screw.  I think this is why it works so well.  However, it will definitely break the screw if  you're not careful and the screw is really stuck. Mind, I'm talking drywall screws here, have never used bronze.

 

I'm using an impact driver as well.  I carefully run the screws in until it raps once or twice.  I then check the tightness of each screw by hand.  I can't use the impact driver when screwing into edge grain plywood.  Like when fastening the planks to the chine.  One little mistake and it spins the screw, so I do all my edge grain ply by hand.  I used a Brace on my last build, driving every screw in the boat with it.  I think they are the best there is for driving screws.  And they are really good a removing a stuck one as well.  Just more work using them.

 

Bronze screws are very soft.  Removing them and using them over again tends to deform the head, eventually making cam-out more likely.  I prefer the Frearson head screws, but also use the slotted.

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Miyot you are getting there. Exciting that you are getting to the bow section. I agree with everyone with the bronze screws. Can't wait to see the bow section take shape. If people would stop wrecking their boats I would have more time to work on my boat. I have some time planned around the 4th. Great job!!!!!!!!

PG

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Miyot you are getting there. Exciting that you are getting to the bow section. I agree with everyone with the bronze screws. Can't wait to see the bow section take shape. If people would stop wrecking their boats I would have more time to work on my boat. I have some time planned around the 4th. Great job!!!!!!!!

PG

Get some pics when you can.  My leaning post and T Top are being constructed.  I have drawn up a console and have ordered cushions for the front seat which is part of the console.  They will match the leaning post seat which has a fixed back.  The T Top will have Rupp outriggers installed as well.  I am moving along.  I will be looking into an engine in August.

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Oh Boy Miyot. The T-Top design for me is torture. It is so easy to make it look awful. I saw a feature that I going to incorporate into my design. The seat forward of the console never has a good handle when underway. I saw what is in the attached picture. They ran a tube forward to create a handrail for the passenger. I don't know why they put it on angle. Are you going with a solid top or material? I am using a solid top, more rigidity and actually less weight. There is a a lot of stainless tubing with the cloth covered ones. I like the top in the second image so far.

Just a leaning post for me. I am going to put fold down seats on both the port and starboard side aft. With a table that lifts out of the transom. These will all fold away and make plenty of room for whatever. I am going to use the same hinges to make a fold away entry step.

I am excited that you are getting closer to being planked. I am hoping for some time in the next week. I will post pictures as soon as I get some done.

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I'm going with the cloth top T Top and a fixed back leaning post.  No one manufactures these close enough to me so I had to order everything.    I went with Birdsall marine.  I sent them my drawings for the center console and they did a mock up for me and have proposed some changes to the console that I went with.  The T Top folds down which I had to have to get the boat in the barn.  The cushions for the leaning post and console will match with the paint color of the boat.  I also went with the phone booth enclosure for the T Top.  Everything is pretty much custom.  The leaning post will have 4 rod holders with a wraparound grab rail and cup holders.  It also has a storage tray under the seat.  The T Top and Leaning post are aluminum.    Here is a pic of the console mock up.

 

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Nice console. Small but big enough. The enclosure will be good for those nasty days. Glad your going with the center console look. It really suits this type of design. I was going to leave the T Top off but it really finishes the boat. Keep chugging.

PG

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Miyot finally some progress. I started planking the sides yesterday and today. I hope to be all planked by the weekend. Then it is off to work for 10 days, Yuck. When I get back fiberglass time.

Have a Happy and Safe 4th everyone!!

PG

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Miyot finally some progress. I started planking the sides yesterday and today. I hope to be all planked by the weekend. Then it is off to work for 10 days, Yuck. When I get back fiberglass time.

Have a Happy and Safe 4th everyone!!

PG

HighTech, I was on vacation.  A week at the beach with the family.  Your progress is really quick for as much time as you have for it.  You have a boat now.  Looking good.  I hope to finish planking this week.  Will get some pics up soon.

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The foam has gone remarkably fast. The fiberglass nails and edge gluing rather than bead and cove has been great. The Gorilla glue foams up and fills any little voids. For the bigger voids I put tape below and poured it in. It fills and is extremely easy to sand. I am off now for 10 days so things will be slow. I am looking forward to your pics. Breaks up the monotony of the road.

The week with the family will give you new energy and you will be flipping before you know it. I hope to be flipped by Labor Day.

PG

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As you can see in the photo I am truly concerned about the epoxyclips.  In retrospect, its just the end of planking, not the end of the world.  So I'm feeling better.  I sure am glad planking is at an end.

 

 The staples have worked really well through the entire planking process.  Even the extreme flare in the bow was done with the staples.  I feel they were superior to using screws, at least with this thickness of  planks and amount of flare in this boat.  I am looking forward to doing anything other than planking, even sanding.  Just glad she is planked.post-2660-0-99693300-1373840502_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-43906300-1373840533_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-53383100-1373840562_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-48553700-1373840596_thumb.jpg

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I see you are using west system epoxy. That stuff will break my bank. Maybe order your next batch of epoxy from Graham and you will get twice the amount for the same price, well almost anyway. Its great stuff and has little to no blush either. Great job,,

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