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Posted

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kGtAXIKuSYyQsaLPVHl5Yb1wxD8LmQTE?usp=drive_link

 

The start has been slow.  Just making components.  Two things that have helped.  Weighing epoxy batches versus pump.  Also I got away form acid brushes for spreading epoxy.  I am using small paint brushes, ( bristles 0.4" long by 0.23" wide) for acrylic and water paints.  They are  $0.09 per unit from Amazon.  They are supple enough to paint clear epoxy,  strong enough for thickened epoxy, and they do not lose bristles.  They are a pleasure to work with.  

 

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Posted

Thanks for the photos, Richard.  It’s fun to see some of the things that go into the CS17m3 build… and a LOT more fun for me not to be doing it. ?

Posted

Granted the sub assemblies are not exciting, but doing the work is satisfying and  a good warm up for the work to come.  Please consider that I get excited about a new paint brush for epoxy work.  I have a low bar when it comes to satisfaction.    The next step is to coat the sub assemblies, then assemble the centerboard box.  

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Posted

Richard— When you assemble the c/b trunk, we all know that it is “inadvisable” for it to contain any twist.  The best surface for doing this is a granite countertop.  They are super flat.  You’ll need to clear that with the War Department, but I’m telling you that it works like a champ.

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Posted

So  I've progressed to placing bulkheads and small parts in the hull.  There have been a few bumps.  I exploded the bow of the boat with overly stiff shear supports. Supple is better.  I tack welded the keel of the boat which went very well, then removed the wires.  I proceeded to fillet and glass the keel.  This should look like a nice straight line down the center of the hull, mine looks like river which over flows it  banks along its route.  It meets the requisite thickness in the center but looks like it was done by a 4 year old.   I doubt the water will notice, but I will know. 

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Posted

The new CS17mkiii interior design is made from multiple pieces which slide, press, and lock in place. At the center of it there is the water ballast box.  The instructions call of the glassing of the box to happen once all parts are installed.  As I remember from before this was hard, since you were kind of working upside down to glass and coat each surface, but there was no choice, it was one large sub-assembly that fit into the boat. The present instructions also call for the fabrication and installation of fiberglass L channel.  I had made the jig but decided against making the glass L channel. The reason for the glass L channel is due to the wood cleat material deteriorating in some boats.  It is understandable. 

     Despite that, I've decided to use the wood cleat material and to glass and pre-coat the faces of the panels which will be in the water ballast box.  My thought is that I can do a much better job of coating and sealing the wood when it is out of the boat.  I have coated the panels with 4 coats of epoxy. I have angled the ends of the cleat materials to make them easier to coat.  I have fully encapsulated the cleat material.  I will then re-install all the parts, fillet all the angles, then add more coats just to be sure that all is sealed.   I'll report back in 10 years or so to let you know if it worked. 

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