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Roger Peterson

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Everything posted by Roger Peterson

  1. Hi Frank, The "T-111" should stiffen the structure quite well, however; you might want to line the inside with lauan paneling. It will keep the studs from twisting, it will hold insulation if you are so inclined and it'd cheeper than anything else except cardboard. If you are going to hang a heavy exterior door, I might suggest connecting your jamb studs to the next stud on each side of the door opening. Roger
  2. Thanks guys for your responses, one more question. My old ski-boat trailer has a tilting hinge at the back of the tongue (main tubing) with a pin and small safety chain. I was going to lengthen the main support tube to get the boat in the water without getting the truck in the water. I have never used a tilting trailer before. one of my friends told me I don't need to lengthen the main support tube if I use the tilting feature. Is this true? how does this work? I was thinking if you tilt the boat on the trailer going into the water, won't the aft bottom of the boat scrape the ramp? ??? I guess I am just having a hard time seeing it in action. :
  3. Hi Guys, I'm at the point where I need to get my trailer set up for the boat. I was given an old ski boat trailer that needs some work and I was wondering 1. how far back from the bow do I locate the axles? 2. how long does the tung need to be from the hitch to the up-right that holds the winch? 3. I wanted to use UHMW on the bunks but how would they be attached? glue won't stick and all I've seen are to thin to countersink. 4. does the axle location depend on the length of the tung? Thanks, Roger
  4. Thanks Ray, You really opened my eyes to the hidden down side to electric trolling motors. I think I will look around for a used small gas motor. The problem in Texas is the title requirements. If you find a good deal on a motor, no title available. Find a used motor with a title, the price is so high, may as well buy a new one. I have every intension of making my own oars but I want to do the Texas 200 next spring and I think a motor would be a safety requirement made by my wife. I was hoping I could get electric power cheaper than gas but I didn't think it all the way thru. Thanks again, Roger
  5. OK, Let me throw in a question. I am going to launch my CS17 in the spring and would like to ask...Has anyone used an electric trolling motor on a CS17? I have NO experience with trolling motors but would rather go electric than gas. What thrust rating and batterys would you guys suggest? Where in the boat would you install the batterys? What kind of charging system would it require? Small gas motors are very expensive in this part of Texas because almost everyone fishes but few sail. I'd rather spend the money on my next boat project. (can you say PUDDLE DUCK RACER)... Thanks for any help, Roger
  6. Hi Mike, How about letting Chuck at Duckworks handle your plan sales? Someone is almost always at home and the service is second to none. It couldn't hurt. You would probably increase plan sales and get even more exposure.
  7. MDO = medium density overlay. It is a fir or sometimes pine plywood made with waterproof glue and covered on one or both sides with a resin coated heavy paper-like material that is very smooth. It is used mostly for signs that are intended for outdoor use. It takes paint very well and won't "check" from weather like marine fir plywood. I think 3/8" is the thinnest available. If I remember correctly, it costs more than the marine fir but much less than occume or other import hardwood marine ply.
  8. Try "Plywood of Fort Worth" on I-35N (West) at loop 820. I bought 3/8" marine fir for a selway-fisher Waterman Canoe a few years ago. They also have one and two sided MDO in 3/8" as well. I will be using the MDO on my next build.
  9. Hi Wes, I used bronze screws to attach the keel on my CS-17. I wanted the security of the mechanical fasteners but if the time came to replace or service the keel wood, the bronze screws can be cut off without damage to the saw or plane blades. I also put 2 layers of glass tape on each side of the keel but not over the "top". All can be easily cut and ground flush for repair or replacement. Roger
  10. Thanks Doug, Sounds like a plan to me... I just stocked up on Guiness... I think I'll wait on the Guiness until AFTER I drill the holes. ;D Roger
  11. Thanks, Peter, It looks like we are at just about the same place in construction. Any hints or suggestions on how to best locate the deck hardware? Are there any "Rules of thumb" for cletes or fairleads? Roger
  12. Well, after almost 5 years, I'm almost ready to install the deck. My question is... What's the best way to attach the deck hardware? I was going to lay the plywood decking on the framing and mark the frame outlines and hardware backer locations and finish the underside of the decking with an epoxy coating and then paint. Do you "BOLT" thru the decking and backer plate or "SCREW" the hardware in place. Do you use 3M 5200 for bedding or polysulphide? Do you drill and pour an epoxy bushing for each of the fasteners? I'm also wondering, do you use the same method for the rest of the hardware IE:blocks,fairleads cleats ect. Thanks, Roger
  13. I bought a set of digital scales from Office Max for about $25 and I wish I would have spent a little more and got the scales that were accurate to one tenth of a gram. After using the scales to mix a gallon of epoxy in small batches, the part "A" was empty but I still had about 4 to 6 oz. of part "B" left over. Most of my mixes were 6 oz. or less. I had a few mixes that took a very long time to cure. I do prefer the scales to the pumps. I am planning to upgrade my scales this fall for the winter building season. System 3 has a set that should be good for about $78 if I remember correctly. I think the upgrade cost is worth the money if you build more than one boat. Scales are the only way to go if you use system 3 Quickfair fairing compound. Just my 2 cents Roger
  14. I saw the rubber (or plastic) clamp pads last weekend at our local Harbor Freight store.
  15. Hi Greg, Look around in the Elkhart, Middleberry area.(northern Indiana) There are several moble home-RV manufactures in the area. Fleetwood's RV plant is a good source for "service" parts and most plants will be glad to sell you what you need. Roger
  16. Wow Frank, Nice Sunset. I can see the pic's at last! Great job. Give yourself a pat on the back and a new boatbuilding project for a job well done. Thanks, Roger
  17. I can't see the pic's either. I have been using the forum as my home page and I also had to reset the log-in address. The new format looks good. I am still trying to understand the new navagation symbols, but it shouldn't take long. Roger
  18. Hi Brent, Chuck over at Duckworks did an article on converting harbor freight trailers for use with small sailboats. Do a search on duckworks and I think you will find what you are looking for. If I remember correctly, there are two or three articles on converting trailers and at least one on building your own. Roger
  19. To fast for words... How did the new boat handle? What will you change? Will lessons learned be used to upgrade the Core Sound series? You are the champion, Congrats to you and your team...including the builders and helpers. A job well done. Roger
  20. Hi Charlie, I'm in the Fort Worth area. Beaumont is is a pleasent motorcycle ride away. Is there something I could do for you? Roger
  21. Congratulations... Startin' to look like a real boat. Now it's time for the fun part... at least until you start sanding. Roger in Ft.Worth
  22. Send me one as well, if you don't mind. Thanks, Roger
  23. Hi Graham, Put me on the list for the staysail drawing as well. #58 will be in the water soon! Thanks
  24. Hi Dale, I did the same thing with my mast sections and the hone from the auto store. I wrapped emory cloth (120 grit) around the hone stones to help speed up the process. I did kill my cheap Black & Decker drill motor in the process. It was worth the effort though because the fit is perfect. By the way, I bought the hone for $20 new.
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