Roger Peterson

Scott, I have some pictures of how I framed the seat hatches on my CS17 in the gallery section. Check out "Roger Peterson's Gallery" in the gallery section of the forum. Roger

Graham, Would filling the upper part of the alloy mast (built to plans) with 2 part expanding foam add enough floatation to keep the mast from sinking? Would that add to much weight up high? Also, How would you suggest keeping the mast sections from pulling apart if the boat does "turtle" Roger

Hi Tim, The boat looks real nice. Congrats on a job well done. I noticed you painted your mast. It looks like wood from a distance, I might have to paint mine after seeing yours. Was it hard to get the paint to stick to the masts? Where did you launch for trials? I'm not far behind... Roger in Ft.Worth

Hi Scott, I started out building my CS17 without the rear deck but after reading (in several places on the net) that the rear of a sailboat is not a good place to have a lot of weight, I went with the rear deck. I even increased the deck length by 12" (overhanging the seats). I then added a 12" wide seat that goes across the back (between the normal seats but still UNDER the rear deck) to build in a small ice chest and a couple of small storage areas. So far it's working out well. Roger

I had the same issue with my keel batten. I removed the rear bulkhead and cut the notch for the batten and then re-installed the bulkhead after the batten was in place. T'was not that hard to do.(for a stepper) As for the inwales... I had a few problems with my inwales being too stiff... the bow end on the port side slipped out of the clamp and ripped the plywood side down about 8 inches. See the pictures in the gallery under my name for the resulting repair. My problem was mostly due to me working alone without a helper... My 2 cents,... get a helper and look at each step before you start. :roll: Do a dry run if you can and remember, it's made of wood so it can be reworked if you run into any opertunities. Roger

Hi Gordy, I coated the inside of the centerboard trunk with graphite and epoxy over the fiberglass and "Boy Howdy" is it ever tough. It's bullet proof! I was planning to do the final coat on the centerboard and rudder with the graphite as well. I was so impressed with the graphite surface of the trunk, I might fill the glass weave of the boat bottom with the graphite/epoxy mix as well. It is a mess to sand if you don't connect the shop vac to the sander. I forgot about using lead shot in epoxy for weighing down the centerboard. Much better than playing with molten lead... I'll give it a go and see what happens. I willing to take the easy way around the hot lead issue.

Let's see some photos! How heavy did it turn out? I built mine from the plans and it turned out heavier than I thought it would as well. I was going to install a lead weight at the end to help sink the board but now that it's built, I don't think it's worth the effort. Roger

I assume you are talking about the seat construction. I used a taped fillet on the seat top where the seat top meets the side of the boat (per plans) and epoxy mixed with silica on the seat framing members (just before laying the seat tops down). I reached inside the "side tanks" thru the access holes on the vertical seat sides to form a small fillet (using the ooze-out from the framing members) on the inside of the seats. It was probably overkill but I had access and I wanted the inside of the tanks clean. :wink: Roger

Hi John, I just used epoxy & glass tape for the seats. In fact, The only places on my CS17 that have any metal fasteners are the deck framing and centerboard case framing... oh yeah, the hatch hinges have screws... Everything else is epoxy and fiberglass tape. Roger

Hi Jeff, I have not crawled under the boat sence I removed the tie wires. I will complete the bottom of the boat in one fell swoop AFTER the centerboard case is installed. I am rough framing the deck to help support the shape of the hull when I flip her over. I will cut the slot in the bottom for the centerboard after the case has been epoxied into place to help keep the proper bottom shape. (weather permitting, I'll install the case this weekend) I plan to do all the glass work, fairing and painting before flipping the boat right side up. THEN I can finish off the deck and add the hardware. Roger

I started with the taller building cradle for the same reasons but quickly cut it down because the sides are taller than you think and it's hard to reach the inside, even when standing on a step ladder. There are some photos of my boat on the rolling cradle in the gallery. Take a look and you will see what I mean. I'm 6'2" and to reach the centerboard case, I have to climb inside the boat even after I lowered the cradle. :roll: Roger

Hi Scott, No problems with the hull sagging. I used the bulkhead layouts to shape the supports under the hull. There is a support under the "temporary" center bulkhead as well as the forward and rear bulkhead. All three uprights have an angle support attached so the whole assembly is quite stiff. I did build the supports too tall at first thinking it would be better to not have to bend over so much but that was soon corrected when I had to use a step ladder to reach the inside of the boat. It's much bigger in real life than I thought. Before I ordered the plans, I measured my "shop" and thought... I have plenty of room for the 17 footer but the 20 footer might be a little tight so I'll order the plans for the CS17. Good thing I didn't order the 20 footer... The building cradle wouldn't have fit. :oops: Note, I store my long building material across the top of the bulkheads and move them around as I build. "whatever it takes..." Roger

I have posted some photos of #58 in the gallery. Take a look when you get a chance Roger

I couldn't resist showing my "shop" now that I have a picture. I enclosed my back porch with 6 mil plastic and built a rolling cradle for the boat. When the weather is good, I can roll the boat outside to work on it but when the weather is bad, I just slide it from side to side to get around it. Roger [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Ok, I finally got my pictures back and reduced in size so I can show how I framed the hatches in the seats. The photos were taken back in late January so a little more work has been completed. The first 2 shots show the side seat framing with the raised "waterproofing" lip and the third shot is the "little seat" across the back bulkhead that will have a small hatch lid for a small built in cooler. The rear deck will cover the "little seat" so people can't sit on it. There will also be a small dry storage compartment for small items like cameras, sunglasses, sunburn ointment (this is Texas after all :shock: ). Roger [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Pictures,guys, Pictures... I sent the film in my throw away camera out to be put on disk this week. I hope to be sharing progress pictures of CS17 #58 soon. 8) Ya'know, I autta' be thinking of a name for #58. I was thinking about painting it yellow and calling it "Mean Mister Mustard Seed"... then trailering it to the great race this 4th of july to try and beat "Ketchup". :shock: Roger

Nice shop, Joe How big will the the shop be when completed? It looks like you might get the Princess 26 in there but will it be high enough? I wish I had a "Boat Factory" like that. It would be nice to have my power tools and work bench in the same area that the boat was it. My space is so limited, I build on the back porch and cut, plane, drill, ect. in the garage. Someday, my shop will come... Roger

Thanks Tom, for bringing us back to the "real world". It would figure that such a technique wouldn't work for the boats we build. I never thought about the twists in the ply that the plastic wouldn't conform to. :shock: I have never been able to get away with "quick and easy"anything. I guess I should get out the old fairing board and sandpaper... Thanks again for keeping me from making a king size mess. :wink: Roger

Anders, #48 is looking really nice. What kind of lumber are you using framing, keel, centerboard, ect.? I know, Strange question but Grahams boats are built all over the world and it's interesting to see the local differences in building materials and methods. Roger

Hi Tim, I hope to launch by late April/ early May. I'll do "Sea Trials" at Eagle mountain lake or lake Benbrook. Yes, They are both small lakes with way too many stink boats but both are within 15 minutes of my house. I really can't wait to go to lake Texhoma. I have never been there but from what I understand, it's one of the best lakes in the area for sailing. I have not been to Ray Roberts but I have a "Fishin' Friend" that goes and he told me there were too many stumps and sunkin logs for sailboats. Of course, He worships the "gods of internal combustion engines"and may not want sailboats "spoiling" his fishing grounds. I told him about Gordy using his Core Sound to fish in the Gulf... Now, (at last) he thinks my boat "could be" cool. (but only if we attach an outboard motor). I told him yesterday I was thinking about making a set of oars... he looked like I just shot him in the face...(A real traitor,I am) :twisted: Roger

See progress pics at www.pbase.com/dr_dichro and click on 'elecric boat construction' This link should take you to Mr. Blazy's site. You gotta' admit, a glass bottom boat is kinda' cool. I'd bet my wife would even want one. Roger

Tom, I saw Tom Blazy's site as well and was impressed with his results. I wonder if a regular guy with 10 thumbs can get as smooth a finish? Where did you get the 30mil plastic in rolls? Is it available in different widths? I think I'll give his technique a try on some scrap material and see how well I can do... Roger

Well, I ordered the sail and hardware for CS17 #58 yesterday afternoon from Graham. 8) Now I have no excuses!! I think I am going to break down and buy a good quality space heater so I can get back to work on the boat. It's just been to cold to do much epoxy work and I'm going nuts looking at the boat every day and NOT seeing any changes. My excuse has been "To cold to do epoxy work" & "I still need to buy..." Well, I have just about all the tools and materials I need to complete the boat (minus paint) so it's just a matter of getting over the cold of winter and putting the nose to the grindstone... (that's new as well). A good heater and the last of the hardware... that's the ticket... Yes, that's it... NO EXCUSES NOW!!! Roger

Thanks for the suggestion, Greg. I just ordered the book thru our bookstore at Amazon.com. Roger

Hi Guys, I want to install lights on my CS17 but I don't really know much about D/C circuits for marine applications. Can anyone suggest a book I can read to get an idea of how to go about installing a simple electrical system. I would like to install the wiring before I cover the seat tops and install the decking. I would like to install the lights to what ever code is required and come up with a simple charging system. Any suggestions on solar panels that might do the trick? There is a book in the forum book store called "The 12-Volt Bible", Has anybody read this book? The reviews on Amazon.com are not vey good but the reviewers were looking for help with complex installations. Thanks in advance for any information you can give. Roger