Gordy Hill

When I redid my centerboard and rudder I first used a 3 1/2 inch hole saw to cut a hole for lead shot and epoxy as low on each blade as possible. I taped one side and filled it overfull to account for shrinkage. I really liked the results. At Grahams suggestion, I planed the leading edges back to about a 3/8 inch flat and tacked on a section of 1/4 inch nylon rope that I had soaked in very slow epoxy. After it was nearly cured I took out the tiny nails I had used to hold it in place and faired it with Cabosil-thickened epoxy. After curing and sanding it fair I glassed one side at a time, overlapping just the leading edge each time, giving two more layers of protection. This gives a very solid composite leading edge. Reefs feared me. I finished with a few coats of epoxy with graphite added. I really liked the graphite finish. If I were to do it again I would add graphite to ALL epoxy throughout the procedure so there wouldn't be any white showing through after sanding. I sanded down to 600 grit and got a finish reminiscent of the Space Shuttle before some white started showing. Otherwise I would have gone to rubbing compound and polish! Gordy If at first you don't succeed, skydiving may not be for you.

The new Core Sound 15 might be just what you're looking for. It's big enough for three people but still small enough to handle easily. Gordy

I notice in the first picture you're reefed. How much trouble was it? Gordy

Roger, I used a three inch hole saw and cut a hole in both my centerboard and rudder blade. I taped the hole on one side and filled it with epoxy and lead shot, over filling a bit to account for shrinkage. It made a noticeable difference. I finished the centerboard and rudder blade with epoxy with graphite. I sanded it down to 400 grit and they looked like carbon fiber sections of the space shuttle. Gordy

Matt, I sail in very shallow water. After contacting the bottom, a weighted centerboard will swing back down a bit on it's own, giving, maybe 6 - 8 inches of exposure automatically as soon as there's enough depth. A bouyant board stays up in the trunk even after you're in deeper water. I found myself continually "searching" for the bottom or realizing I'd been sailing in deeper water for some time with the board up when it could have been down. Your expirement is very interesting. I'm not sure the differance will be enough to notice. Graham's design is very efficient. I'd continually outpoint very capable boats. Gordy

I added lead weight to my centerboard and really liked the difference it made. I'm not sure I see the advantage of using foam. Somehow a boyant centerboard doesn't strike me as a good thing. Gordy One good turn usually gets most of the blankets.

I've used a snowmobile battery, about the same size as a lawnmower battery, but with a handy handle. It was only in the boat when I was in it. If you're going to wire the boat anyway, I'd strongly recommend a fishfinder. They're cheaper than a depth finder and have bigger numbers. I have a Hummingbird on a small skiff and it's happy with a 6 volt lantern battery. They use very little power. Gordy "If at first you don't succeed, skydiving may not be for you."

Ken, Click on Cruising Logs, Stories, and Articles. Then click on "Sawdust" at Tampa Bay. Gordy

Hey Ken! You'll really like the CS17! I had a tent made like a Bimini top. It cost a bit over $500, but was tall enough to sit up in with the floorboards on the floor. With the boards filling the area between the seats and centrboard trunk I had a 5 1/2 foot by 8 foot sleeping area. Try this link. http://www.smallsailboats.co.uk/ Gordy

Hi Kud! I built a Flyfisher because the Moccasin was just a bit small for my 250 pounds. The Flyfisher is longer and wider at the chines. It's quite a bit more stable and, if I remember right, weighed just a bit over 30 pounds. If I were to build another, (could happen rather soon) I'd build boyancy chambers in the ends. Nothing fancy. There's plenty of room and it wouldn't add much weight. By the way, Graham's paddle design is truely impressive. Gordy

Here's a link to some pictures of my snotter rig. http://groups.msn.com/smallboats/gordyscoresound17.msnw?Page=1 Just in case you haven't seen them before. Gordy "One good turn usually gets most of the blankets."

Rob, A clove hitch on the snotter can come undone and the quick release of tension will shoot your sprit well out into the water. I lashed a D ring to the mast and clipped the snotter to it. It folds up when the sail is wrapped around the mast. The snotter went from the snap, around a small cheek block at the forward end of the sprit, back through a block at the clip and down to a cleat on the mast. I had a knot in the snotter below the last block so the thing wouldn't unravel. When rigging, just put the pointy end of the sprit in the clew and snap the snotter rig to the D ring. From this point you can let go of everything and it will stay put until you're ready to take a turn around the cleat on the mast and take up on what now is your outhaul. The snotter could be led around a block at the base of the mast and led aft. Both the outhaul and downhaul could be accessed from the cockpit. Gordy

Sherwin Williams has a two part industrial paint for floors and such. By having my friend order it wholesale it cost about $50 or $60 to paint my boat. I rolled it on with a friend immediatelyfeathering it with a foam brush. I got a very good, but not great finish. You might put on a few coats and sand it for a base coat for a more expensive finish. I think it could be sprayed on for a great finish. I later considered mixing graphite in it. Then sand and polish it till the boat looks like it's made of carbon fiber. Then my friend offered to paint it for free with Imron....

Just a note guys.... Everything I finished bright eventually got painted. Even with UV filter varnish over the epoxy I found the okume changed color. It was really noticeable when I removed a fitting. Coamings and trim look great bright. Plywood always looks like plywood. Really really nice plywood is still just plywood. It took a long time, but I finally decided that even nice plywood looks nicer, more elegant, and more professional with a good paint job. ........just my opinion

Brent, Check out the West Coast Trailer Sailors Squadron's web page. They have quite a few photos. There's usually a two to three day sail from Key West to the Dry Tortugas in Feb. http://members.ij.net/wctss/wctss/ Gordy

Also consider: glassing the hull makes it much much much easier to put on a really beautiful finish. I don't think the 6oz glass I put on my CS17 added much weight at all. I was unaware of the multiple coat approach and let it cure, sanded, rolled on epoxy, sanded etc. Of course, because of this approach I probably cut off at least 3/4 of a pound on the finished weight of the boat...............................maybe not worth the trouble.....

Maybe for a bigger boat, Frank. Bob, I see you've given this some thought. Have you priced a marine transmission?...stuffing box?...prop, shaft, and strut? I would guess you're not considering one of those expensive folding props, so you're going to accept the drag. I imagine you're not going to trailer the boat, but if you are I don't think it will add too many complications. Most ramps are deep enough. Personally, I sail where my oars often contact the bottom, but if you accept another 8 - 10 inches of draft you should be fine. Have you considered an air cooled Briggs and stratton? Do you really, really want all that stuff sticking out the bottom of your boat? Actually, for a small boat I don't think there is a really good solution. All the answers have drawbacks. Gordy "Time flies like an arrow - fruit flies like a banana"

Sixty Horsepower!!! Bob, what are you thinking?!! TEN horsepower would probably get you to hull speed, weigh less, take up much less room, cost less, be less complicated, generate more than enough to charge your batteries, cost much less to operate, and therefore give you much more range on a smaller fuel tank. Other than that, I see no reason not to build a sailboat to carry around your engine. Gordy

Brad, I've sailed my CS17 for over five years in varying conditions. I've had it in very heavy weather and rough seas. I wouldn't think of changing the rig, except, as Brad suggested, maybe going with a bit smaller sails if you're going to be sailing in lake Michigan. Gordy

Brad, I've sailed my CS17 for over five years in varying conditions. I've had it in very heavy weather and rough seas. I wouldn't think of changing the rig, except, as Brad suggested, maybe going with a bit smaller sails if you're going to be sailing in lake Michigan. Gordy

Yup, My Core Sound 17 Sawdustis for sale. Give me a call at 407-422-1202 or cell 407-616-4371. Or e-mail me at sirgordy@peoplepc.com

Roger, The leeboards on the Sea Pearls are VERY heavy. Carrying just one around really wouldn't be worth it. The sides of the Sea Pearl are nearly straight. It would take a bit of cobbling to rig things on a Core Sound. Every time you come about it's something else to mess with.

Sure! They have them on Sea Pearls, and they work just fine. There's no reason you couldn't put one on a Core Sound. If my mizzen were about 8 inches longer I'd consider it on my boat.

Joe, I'm very sorry I didn't respond when I first read your post. I couldn't find the words to express how your news saddens me. It seems the words still aren't apparent. My prayers are with you my friend. If you ever find yourself near Orlando, we can take my boat out for a sail. Gordy

John, I'd put my Core Sound 17 up against any other open sailboat for sailing-camping. I can't imagine any other boat it's size that is easier to launch and rig. Few boats can keep up with it, especially up wind, and, because of it's light weight, it's easy to handle when beached. Then here's the Core Sound 20............